v-twinwalker
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Posts posted by v-twinwalker
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2 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:
just looked up "poopy" and I can only suggest that you clean the cable.
lol maybe not the best title for a topic, wont happen again
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
Is this site turning into "Suzuki Ownership for Dummies" ?
If you don't know what you are doing - buy a Haynes or Clymer manual and read it - then read it again, then tackle a job and then if you get stuck come and ask a question!
just asking if anyone knows about it before i try to tackle it tomorrow i appreciate any help, i want to get a service manual but cant rn. sry ur so annoyed that im asking alot of questions for help
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16 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
They had moved on from tractor technology by then, tacho's were electronic.
lol u just hate on me
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today was the day i tried to start my bike, and i did, its out of sync forsure bc the idle plays around a bit but also my throttle cable sucks, i fixed my tach so i was trying to adjust the throttle and when i tighten or loosen my cable nothing really happens, sometimes itll tighten up but loosens again, ill have to post a vid of the bike running and me messing with cable to give a bit of a better depiction but if anyone has knowledge of why its acting like this please help
p.s- i know that the carb adjustments are on the outside of the carb and i can sync them like that, but im a nooby and since this bike has 4 carbs i didnt want to mess with it without some prior knowledge or some guidance, tonights not the night to do it im gonna call it a day im happy with where i got but if anyone has any pointers or a thorough guide to do it id be happy to hear
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5 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:
+1. Get a decent battery! Mine read 13V, and was f*cked! Worth spending a few extra pesos!
justt on a budget rn i didnt buy a new battery just traded the old one in so i didnt spend anything on one.
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4 hours ago, BigT said:
Yeah, O Reillys is where I go for advice on my motorcycle that was made before he was born
o nice so i guess they have to know about the motorcycle to know about a battery and have a test machine that tells you if its okay.
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if its like my bike (gs650) you have a tachometer cable that goes from ur tachometer to the engine, that could be broke theyre about $12 if its the same type
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i mean i got it with the bike, aslong as i can keep replacing it for free i will lol, ill get a better one in the future if they really end up being shit all the time, just cant right now
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the battery got heated during the test at oriellys, i got a new battery under warranty and now everything works good, ill check for things getting heated but idk the dude at oriellys said most of those batteries are junk hence the 90 day warranty
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the issue was the ignition wasnt sitting in the case right, but just got my battery tested and it doesnt hold charge well and gets hot, can that be why my main fuse blew
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24 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said:
You'll get used to the 'piss taking' on here ... it's a requirement! As for the yokes, I think you might find both top and bottom yokes may be bent/twisted on the left side! If that's the case, then it's a new pair required!
well the bottom is a "new" one i just had the top leftover because i didnt know it was bent, ill still check the bottom, as for the jokes i need to develop a better sense of humor
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1 hour ago, Swiss Toni said:
Sorry, mate. Couldn't resist!
Joking aside, you say you've dropped it? Are the yokes (trees) steel or alloy? I'm guessing the latter. Slacken the yokes off, and try again. If all goes well, you've simply had everything done up too tight, and miss-aligned. If still no good, leave the yokes in the bike, remove the legs, and take a measurement from beneath the top yoke, (where the stanchions go 'thru), to the top of the lower yoke, at the same place. This'll show if the yokes are bent. Or, remove the top yoke, sit it on a known flat surface. Both ends should have contact. If pressing down on one side creates an air gap ... another indicator your yoke is bent (twisted)! I wouldn't recommend trying to straighten the yoke(s), as they're easily available from breakers.
lol thought u were trying to troll me i was like is this dude serious, everythings loose right now and they still sit at an angle, im going to take the top tree off soon and check for bends thanks for all the methods to check.
edit: guess i shouldve known when putting them on but yeah when i push it through the bottom tree and get right before the top, the fork isnt flush with the hole, and i have to push the top of the fork towards the back of the bike to fit, making the bottom stick forward. literally said to myself before i started fitting "if it needs to be forced or mangled in, it wasnt gonna fit in the first place" lol gotta eat my own words now
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its on its service stand and a jack and im on flat ground thats kinda a dumb answer, my left fork sticks out forward a bit, i think its my top tree i did crash and messed the front end up in the first place but i thought my top tree was fine i guess not
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finally got to putting on forks and the tree on my bike, tree went in easy, my right side fork went in easy,and the left was a bit of a sturggle but went in all the way no doubt, my issue is my tire ends up sitting off to the right, i can push it to the left to where its straight but it never stays, ive tightened it holding it straight but it didnt take the problem away, i had this issue with the last pair i used so im guessing that the forks arent bent or the tree but why is this happening? the wheel also has been balanced before theres weights on it that sit on the left side of wheel
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yeah was an easy troubleshoot its because its loose in the case, just have to mend the plate so it in there correctly so my ignition sits in the case flush, thanks for the advice tho
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11 hours ago, Blubber said:
if you put it that way... it probably is a turn signal reminder .
i wish lol, its hooked up to my clutch wire and i disconnected it so now my bike wont start, so its definently a security thing, gotta reconnect it lol
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they're not green, ill add that it wasnt doing this at all earlier but the piece that hold the ignition in the case is loose, so maybe thats it
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so that small horn like mechanism was some type of alarm, when i flicked indicators and i only tried on those the little box started going off, i just want to completely disconnect it, but im guessing it runs through all my wiring
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so all my electric stays on after the key is took out, and turning it any which way wont stop it, i feel like its because something inside that gets pushed to turn on everything is stuck so im going to try to get to it anyways but any pointers?
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22 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
If you can't work that one out - sell your tools and take the bike to a mechanic who does - not being funny but this seems to be way above your pay grade!
not rly u just said they all have issues so i was just sayin and how would a blade type fit on this i just got the glass ones
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wait so wat fukn fuse do i get they all sound like they suck
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thanks dude once i get the parts i need ill put em on and see what happens
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everyone i am a confirmed dumb dumb
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27 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Er yeah - thats why its called the 'Main fuse'! Problem is why didn't you check that first and why did it pop in the first place?
i did check i just didnt look at it good obviously lol, is it possible from holding the starter too long? i did hear a pop from my bike when i was trying to get it going and i thought it was from exhaust but maybe it was that, also sparks are prob bad dont know if that would do it. look man im a noob at this shit lol im learning as i go
Dead rev counter
in Air Cooled
Posted
ur names fucking ian my names fucking ian too