v-twinwalker
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Posts posted by v-twinwalker
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1 hour ago, fastgs287 said:
If all you got was a sticking float valve and crumbly gaskets it sounds like you got off lightly
- No broken/ bent needles? green, white or brown jelly? jets so corroded you can't read the numbers? float bowl corroded through?
deep corrosion craters in the carb body? dented floats? differents jets/ needles in each carb? Jets blocked with hylomar? Jets drilled on the piss?
holes blocked with self tapping screws? Broken drill bits left in the jets? Bent nail used as float pin? holes repaired with chemical metal?
i had a dent in my float bowl lol. there was dry white and green stuff no jelly luckily, alot of the bolts for attaching the float bowls and top plate were halfway stripped and carb 4 was finger tightened lol, but yeah id say it wasnt nothing crazy just lots of rust. but what does sucks is my valves r covered in oil and shit so my valve seals are probably leaking, so thats fun.
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so got to opening up my carbs and cleaning, top of carbs were fine not bad at all, but my float bowls, they couldve been mistaken for normally being the colour orange inside, anyone ever have a gasket fall apart to their fingertips? other than that its a solid go i just made a couple small mistakes, i forgot to take the pilot jets out and some other small component thats in the entryway of the carbs but i didnt damage or break anything, also the spring for float 4 is broken im pretty sure (doesnt really spring back up just sits back up when i give it a little tap) so ill get to replacing that. anyone have any carb stories of finding some nasty junk in their carbs or just something weird?
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taking boots off an got a look inside one of the cylinders, caked up in grime, what do i spray in there to get it to come off?
edit: kindove a dumb question, im gonna say they're my valves that you can see looking in the boots, its as dirty as some of the buildup spots on my carbs and sitting on engine, is that gonna damage my engine? its already been like that. what type of a job is it to get them clean
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22 minutes ago, Captain Chaos said:
you mean boots/rubbers
nobody has to know
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20 minutes ago, Captain Chaos said:
you mean boots/rubbers
ma boots r cracked
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carbs r off, dirty bois they are, inside didnt look bad know you cant see bc i blocked them off, boots are pretty old but still squeezable and not cracking, heres some pics. cleaning/rebuild coming soon!
couple things, will washing the rubber fittings that are on airbox with purple power be a bad idea, will dilute the degreaser with water. also whats some pointers i should know when doing this.
edit: yeah just realised ma boots is cracked where they mount
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9 hours ago, Cheeky4648 said:
Up near Cortez 50? I’m in Dunedin.
yeah tru its about an hour away, i went to holiday before to look at a ninja 250, basically just drive commercial the whole way, maybe when the bikes done we can ride lol
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10 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:
Removing the cable in situ is a pia, but not impossible. If you can't do it, disconnect the cable from the throttle, then remove the carbs. Removing ... Easy. Re-fitting ... that depends on how hard the boots (rubbers) are. Before doing this, take notice of the cable run. Fit the new cable to the carbs first, and run it back to the throttle on the same route it took when you removed it. You did take notice, didn't you? Good! But, if the YCC hasn't done the trick with the poor running, you may as well open the carbs up and give them a good clean. Ultrasonic is good! Do one at a time. Don't rush it. Keep things clean and tidy.
alright ill definitely have to do the carb cleaner treatment i have a spray can but ill just use that for a full clean if i have to end up doing it, cant find the can right now anyways. hopefully ill be getting to it soon, ill give an update when i get to all of it thanks dude!
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5 hours ago, Poldark said:
If the carbs aren't too dirty, you may be able to get by with removing the carbs, removing the float bowls, and spraying out the passages with carb cleaner spray. If really gummed up, they'll need to go into dip or ultrasonic bath. American gasoline (petrol) is generally 10% ethanol and breaks down very quickly. Some fuel stations are selling a 15% ethanol; please don't put that into your bike. Most fuel here is rather low quality, but it is WAY less expensive than what our friends across the water are paying.
i have a non ethanol pump right by my place (and 93 :D) luckily, would it be the best thing for me to go non ethanol? ive seen something about it before
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4 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:
+1! Good advice! Systematic problem solving. Eliminate one problem, go on to the next ... until it's running like a sewing machine! If your throttle cable's got broken strands, it'll be stiff to open, and hang up when you're trying to close it. Check it out, and renew if needed. Just take your time. If you're not sure...ask! The only stupid question is the one you're don't ask. We all had to start somewhere! Stick with it. You'll get there.
you've been the nicest and most supportive guy on this forum thanks dude, how hard is it to take the cable off and back on without removing carbs i know it connects almost at the bottom of them, if the carbs need to come off will that do any damage simply taking them off and on, i dont wanna mess stuff up thats not messed up already.
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33 minutes ago, Swiss Toni said:
Before trying to strip your carbs, and maybe making things worse, buy a bottle of this. Follow the instructions to the letter. If it improves things ... great! If not, at least the carbs wi be nice and clean internally!
seafoam good enough? i was watching some vids from the dude who owned my bike, and he replaced the pectock, can thart be why my fuel delivery isnt good? since its a vacuum pump and maybe its going out, also i have to turn my petcock with pliers to move it.
this bike ran flawlessly atleast 2 years ago dont know how much it was rode between then and when i got it.
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not the whole assembly, just the
38 minutes ago, Sheep said:Do you mean the throttle assembly itself moves around on the bar as in the whole thing,grip and tube...if so then that need sorting too as that will not help when fitting/adjusting cables.
not the whole assembly, that sits tight, but the actual cable moves, so the metal tube that ends up being fitted on the assembly i can spin it all around no restriction.
the cable was already pretty bad i didnt realise, when me an my bud we're messing around with the throttle weeks ago when we were tightening it there would be no change in idle till u gave it a few good spins so its definitely stretched out, didnt think of it then but i do now
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1 hour ago, Ibbo said:
Well done for sticking with it. Though your bars look mighty high to me.
they are high but they are the facotry bars, alot of people dont like them because your wrists get cramped up in the position they sit, i plan on changing them when i get it up to spec mechanically
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32 minutes ago, Ronny said:
What’s the crack with the “under 21” on the numberplate? Is it a legal thing?
in florida you have to wear a helmet if youre under 21, you should have to anyways but u know, usa n all that
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im having a fuel delivery issue im going to get a new throttle cable when i can but when i rev quick it dies out if i do a gradual twist it stays on but i have to prime carbs for it to stay on, i replaced vac line so thats fine now, my throttle cable has a big part to this, but whats a carb issue that makes fuel not be able to deliver itself an only on prime . eh it doesnt sound so bad it vibrates and makes a bit more noise then it used to.
edit: might sound confusing what im saying but the throttle cable moves around freely on the handlebar, and when the bike wasnt starting this morning but cranking, i just tightened the cable up and it stayed on, i keep avoiding messing with the carbs i know but ive never in my life touched a carb and am a bit afraid to take over the job, ill have to inevitably if a new cable doesnt do the trick, but i gotta get to carbs anyways to get to the cable, seems like itd be almost impossible to refit one on without taking carbs off
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so the bikes started, again, fml. if it turns on tomorrow after letting it sit ill be happier to anounce its gonna be stable, but anyways after so much posts about problems with my bike id figure id post the photos of my bike when i first got it, i did take off the spraypaint revealing the original paint which isnt bad at all just scuffed n stuff, ill be rockin it tho. i got it for $700 and im pretty happy about the deal, i dont think the guy who sold it knew much about it he had it for less than a month so the owner before him still had his name on title. maybe he gave it to me bc it was a pos, or maybe he just didnt wanna deal with it he had other bikes in his garage. but anyways, heres my 82gs650gl.
edit: i also found my bike on youtube, the guy whos name was on the title had a youtube channel with this specific bike on it, his youtube is shacklinjackson i just think its pretty cool that i found my bike on there.
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On 9/22/2019 at 5:14 PM, wraith said:
i replaced the spark that wasnt burning, and swapped 1 and 2 and also 3 and 4 out with eachoher. refitted airbox and put a jerry rigged filter on it, and it started up right away. the idle wasnt stable but i can say its a throttle cable issue bc i can adjust the issue by tightening or loosening the cable but itll drop or go high again if i move the cable, it did higher the idle after i let off from revving so yeah throttle cable.
another thing is im having a fuel delivery issue because the bike died out, but when i primed carbs it started up and sat idling, i will say my vacuum hose is two pieces put into a bigger hose to keep them together, and some electric taped wrapped around the bigger tube, so ill have to replace that. also my fuel line thats connected to carbs is dried out and is split where my fuel filter is connected, im not sure how to replace the fuel line without taking carbs out because i cant take the airbox out where its connected to carbs.
carb 2 and 3 are still hotter but 1 and 4 were basically right behind, 1 was actually hotter than 4 this time.
heres a vid or two and a picture of my air filter. trust me the air filter is not a permanent fix and barely a temporary its just so i can run it and make sure everythings working how it should
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7 hours ago, wraith said:
From what I can tell you are saying, I would get 4 new plugs and get a air filter. Some of you running/not running will be down to not have the air filter fitted and the carbs set as standard, to much air without the filter, also duff plugs will not help.
the plugs are new and yes that does make sense about getting too much air, the reason it was took off first is because it wouldnt start and taking it off did the trick, but you do smell fuel very dominantly when its running so i thought it wasnt running lean but rich, maybe its just cuz its an old bike.
edit: i dont know what duff plugs r
edit: can the ignition coil go bad
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6 hours ago, Dezza said:
If this is all not a series of wind ups, then everyone has to start sometime
It would help to first say what model and year the bike is. Do you need it for daily transport and do you have a shed? If the answer to these questions are: no and yes, then congratulations you now have an OSS project bike. First, make sure you have a decent basic tool kit and consumables. A bench helps too. Then we all go on from there.....82gs650gl, no dont need it right now but will soon enough. i have a shed in the back but im using my garage for lighting. yeah its a project bike alright, i got the tools for it n stuff just not the knowledge as of right now i know people are telling me find somebody who does to work on my bike but the one person who did know had my bike sit and do nothing in his garage for weeks, so im gonna take it on myself. im not dumb just new to it right now but ready to learn ive been doing other small fixes this is just my main problem i need help with
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9 hours ago, wraith said:
Not read all your other posts, but from what I can tell you have fucked throttle cable and way out of balance carbs.
So starting from the start,
1. You have the right ht leads going to the right plugs, ie coming from one coil going to plugs 1/4 and the other coil going to 2/3?
2. Your getting fuel to the carbs?
3. Fuel is getting the the cylinders ie if not starting are the plugs getting wet?
4. Is the air filter clean?
5. When bike ran, where all down pipes hot or where some just worm?
all other posts r dumb i couldve figured out myself and did basically, yes plugs r fitted correctly aslong as left coil is for 1 and 4 and right coil is for 2 and 3, sparks 2 and 3 are working great, spark 1 has barely any discoloration where its supposed to spark, and is pretty clean other than old stuff that was in the hole so not good, spark 4 isnt reacting all that good but it reacts, and is wet with fuel, no air filter right now just the part of the airbox that fits on carbs is on there so its just open, when running pipe 2 and 3 give off the most heat, pipe 4 gives heat but not as much as 2 and 3, and pipe 1 really only gets warm. since 1 and 4 arent reacting well and thats how its hooked up can the coil be part of the issue?, hence part of the issue.
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49 minutes ago, Poldark said:
Not pigeons, sea gulls. He's on the Florida gulf coast; very sandy and salty environment.
Have you done anything to the throttle cable lately? If it's routing has any tight bends, it could be binding. Has the bike sat for a long time without running; might have dirty carbs.
ive just been adjusting tha bottom then top to try to mess with throttle and it takes a good amount of spins before it starts rising, i guesss im gonna get to removing it and looking at it, and yes it sat for a while before buying it but it ran for two days then it started shutting off it did it twice then it wasnt turned for a couple- few weeks. its been started v=every week or two but usually doesnt turn back on the second day after siting the night prior, carbs r hopefully not out of sync im going to check if 1 doesnt fire good bc of spark tomorrow an ill retest the battery at oriellys even tho i just got it
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other night i got my bike started and it turned right on everytime after id shut off, it was idling low but it would stay on, if i revved quick itd die out. but today i went to start and got only electric mainly no crank, messed with throttle cable and got it cranking but not staying on, then one time after i let go of starter it turned right on, and then died out eventually it first revved at 600 then 800, the carbs are out of sync cylinder 1 doesnt open well till warm and 4 is a little off but im going to change sparks to find out. one other thing is the first time i would try starting after it sat it would give a jump, i did replace the sparks and got them gapped correctly one of them i had to mess with but they're all at .6-.7. i also hear a clicking when starting now. gonna get battery tested again anyways i just got it yesterday i dont expect that to be it but when it was charging it did end up showing error sign. also i understand that throttle issue is prob carbs not an electric thing,
heres a vid of trying to start dont know why it got so pixelated was filmed on iphone
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so i guess im not gonna make another post seeing how many i have made, but today bike didnt want to start, wasnt cranking at all just electric, got it up a few times after messing with throttle cable and one time it started right after i stopped pressing starter button, i heard about that before i heard its an electric issue maybe im wrong.
gs650 brakes stuck
in Air Cooled
Posted · Edited by v-twinwalker
finally bled rear brake seeing if itd work, piston was stuck on it but i pushed them back in and then got to bleeding, my rear is a duel disc so my left one bled fine and worked fine, my right one gave out a little fluid when pressurized, then stopped putting fluid, then i pushed the brake pedal down hard as fuck and a bunch of brake fluid shot the fuck out so i got whatever was in it unstuck, but heres my problem, the piston isnt retracting, ive put pressure on the pedal then opened a valve letting fluid out and twisted it back on, and the piston didnt retract at all with a loss of pressure, that being said what do yall think the problem is, is there any brakes that fit my bike with no fitting adjustments? how would i look for something like that? if my brakes need a rebuild, maybe ill just rebuild them but i hear its hard to do pistons. ive heard that it could also be my pins but i thought what i just tested seeing if releasing pressure showed you if itd be the pins
also im pretty sure my front is supposed to be a duel disc and my rear a single, does anyone know? are my brakes swapped?
on second thought theyre not swapped i guess the info site i used for my specs is wrong