Rsk_141
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Posts posted by Rsk_141
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Thanks for that much appreciated
G.
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Standard book, jets needles and pilot settings, can't remember what they are but we're check against book.
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Gsxr 1100 86 34mm
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On 28/06/2016 at 1:45 AM, t3rse said:
Are you sure it's lean?
Could be, not sure, without anything to compare them to, it hard to tell
(Trying to build a case to rob the holiday fund for a set of 36mm RS carbs, )
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On 21/06/2016 at 0:32 AM, Del said:
http://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/RAMAIR-PERFORMANCE-FOAM-SOCK-AIR-FILTERS-SUZUKI-GSXR-BANDIT-CB-ZRX-XJR-KZ-FJ-GS-/350634792250?hash=item51a376553a:g:d1oAAOSw~bFWGXh2
http://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/Universal-60mm-76mm-Air-Filter-Induction-Kit-Silicone-Reducer-Connector-/271135577125Got 34mm carbs which are only 52mm intake, so the reducer will be too big, would silicone tube do the job? Seen it in meter lengths that I could cut to length, if so what length, I know bell mouths come in 30mm and 50mm, OEM intake rubber length might be a good idea as well if anyone has the size.
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Apart from the weight loss the net benefit of the swap should be more midrange due to the 4 into 2 into 1 arrangement, any draw backs to the swap?
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Cheers Del,
can you remember what the OD of the pipe is so I can source a link pipe/end can.
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I may have a small issue of running a bit lean.
Got a St 3 dynojet kit Heard there ok but factory pro kit are better, any thoughts?
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Thanks for the reply yeah I have seen the videos etc of getting the pipes to bend under, but I was wondering, just as the front pipes bend under the frame, even if it were to be heated and bent it still looks to be sticking out too much for the fairing to go on with out melting the front V or exit area right rear lower. Which if it was a SF project it would be no problem.
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Just had DVLA on the phone saying, because of recent events my bike could be deported for being a toothless crank,
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4
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4 hours ago, FJD said:
Thanks for the info.
G.
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3 hours ago, FJD said:
this should be the GU74C 1052 lump then.
The engine itself should be the same ereywhere, restrictions could be in carb tops (slides don´t go up all the way), carb jetting, inlet rubber reduction, or exhaust reduction.
just check these points to find out
GU74B, tin top carb caps, can push slides all the way up, jetting checked against book on rebuild all ok, carb rubbers flush with inlet castings, cobra exhaust fitted,
Cool, so we have full power Cap'n.
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Do GsxR 1000 ti headers fit under standard 86 body work lowers?
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Thanks,
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Was wondering how u704 engines restricted?
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All fitted thanks for the advice went OEM friction and springs,
G.
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All is well all cleaned up ready to go.
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Everyday is a school day, and a good point well brought out, but it not rust it a gunge, orange and in some places a blue green sludge.
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Seem to have some sort of clutch fungus after a soak in washing powder
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And got this to check flatness
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Found this in the garage.
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Will check them on some glass, to see if there straight, but it will probably cost more time and money to get them shot blasted, as buying new ones.
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Got some blue steel plates
As for friction plates OEM is the recommended way forward
Can you replace individual steel plates or is it best to replace them all?
Also I can see the theory behind OEM friction, what about Steel will TRW aftermarket plates be ok?
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3 hours ago, Fula28 said:
+1 for o.e.m frictions , carbon or Kevlar seem to discolour the oil quickly and are more prone to slipping with hard use, I've used all sorts over years but o.e.m seem to be stress free. Barnett seem OK in bandits but I've only used o.e.m in my slabbie .As for springs kibblewhite are very good, for more base pressure, if not just shim std ones with correct o.d washers allways a cheap quick fix.
Cheers for that. Top tips always welcome.
Slabby Mirrors
in Oil Cooled
Posted · Edited by Rsk_141
Fitted mirrors to a 86 slabby (after market pointy ones, see pic) tuther day not quite as expected anyone got any tips on which ones work best ie you can see stuff behind you with out contorting your body.
Someone has already mentioned go on a diet.