imago

Just like I know that your bike needs to stop. What's your point?

Undoubtedly, but it's the cumulative affect of multiple heavy braking events in quick succession at consistently high speed which puts brakes through the mill. It's why carbon brakes are useless on a road bike, they just don't get hammered enough so they can't maintain the temps required to make them operate.

Maybe it's part of the same upgrade/change then? Either way, unless the bike's being used hard on a track there wouldn't be a noticeable difference as anyone riding on the road couldn't get anywhere near the level of braking energy that happens during racing.

It might not be welded, they may have used the flange bolts to clamp it in place.

It's nothing more than supposition, but maybe it's an update? Reversed on the outer side of the calliper for balance as that would get more air flow and therefore run cooler than the inner? So that way it would keep both pads at the same temp for balanced wear and braking.

That's the "for now" box that comes with most projects. A load of crap and rock hard wires that you rummage through, decide it's all unusable shite, then put it all back in the box and shove it under the bench "for now". A few years later you find it again, have another rummage, confirm your first thought that it's all shite, and then shove it back under the bench. At that point it becomes the "maybe" box as you think "maybe" one day you'd need something out of it.

Personally as it's a much lighter bike than the Hayabusa and he's aiming for a sleeper I'd be using the GSXR 1000 engine as there's plenty of torque available with that for the weight of an SRAD when compared to a barge like a 'busa. Worth noting that a K5 on 1000 will give you 180hp out of the box, and a re-map will take you to 200hp in a safe and reliable package.

I guarantee it will, for a second or two. Mind you, I imagine in that second or two the frame would end up as a modern art sculpture.

This crank while perfectly serviceable for a stock road bike is a bit near the knuckle for fast road or track use. To save a bit of time rather than rebuild this one I had one already done ready to fit.

I don't go in for the "best stuff ever" bollocks that gets tagged onto stuff. But, it really is way better than anything I've used before. WD40 isn't penetrating oil anyway, but 3 in 1, Duck oil etc won't touch this stuff. The other thing about it is that you only need to use a little squirt instead of hosing it on. The PITA is it's online order only from Nor'n Ir'n with a minimum order of two cans so I got a case of it and sell the odd can from the workshop to people who don't use much or often. Couriers don't like aerosols though so it's collect only.

Some staining and very minor pitting on a small area or two. About at the limit of acceptable, but I'd say it's good to go. Pretty much done with the clean up now so I'll give you a call or you can call me at some point today and have a chat.

Meanwhile in Redditch, an early start and back onto cleaning up the crank. Little ends before, and after using some BDX and a brass 12 bore cleaning brush on a small drill.

I find it's better to just clean them up by hand after a go through the heated parts wash tbh. Scotchbrite pads, penetrating oil and elbow grease get everything you need to, and it doesn't take much longer as you save time blowing it through to make sure that there's no media left in them. The danger with any sort of pressure cleaning is not only the media but that you can shift a little bit of crap from somewhere and blast it into an oil way where it wedges. Cases are fine as they're much easier to check and clear as the galleries and drillings don't have so many twists and turns and are larger dia.

So, the crank. I thought I may as well put the update in here. Manky looking thing that it was bearings all good, it's tru, and the big end thrusts are all within tolerance. Little ends need a clean up, along with the rest if it and it should be good to go. The taper was another matter Gave it all a first pass clean and aside from the surface rust it's had a bit of a spin moment. On to the lathe to knock the ridges off as fortunately most of it looks to be transfer from the stator. Then touch it up with a stone and I reckon we can put this one on the 'saved' list. All that'll need doing is to lap the stator onto the taper for a final finish, but that needs to be the stator that'll be going on it.

The pins and the bores lose a little metal from the surface each time they're pressed apart and back together. That makes it impossible to tru the crank properly. Cranks are only worth a rebuild or replacement for a performance application as even a slightly iffy one will last quite happily in a stock 100 hp engine. If you sleeve them then you double the interference faces which halves the grip so that's out. Building up the pin is possible in theory but it's not as good as the original because it's nigh on impossible to get heat treatment to work on a sprayed finish and the cost to produce an inferior joint means it's better to go for a replacement crank.