Nick

This is not my experience - certainly with 1100M carbs. Also, be advised that modern dynojet kits dont come with new emulsion tubes - the jets use the OE Suzuki ones now. So, if your emulsion tubes are ovalled, it will be terminally rich in any case... Just a thought. I gave up with the stage 1 dynojet kit on my 1100M - it was killing plugs and unrideable, despite using their settings - and the tech support wasn't great. So bad I would've needed a van to get to a dyno, in fact. I've gone back to OE needles and jets and have tweaked that slightly (1100M, akra system, airbox with k&n)...

It wasn't cheap at about 100 quid for four valves and seats, but worth it in terms of the aggro of carb removal and fuel in the sump etc. Suzuki want 75 per carb, ffs!! As you can see, the Tourmax ones aren't chamfered at the top of the rubber and were just a bit naff quality wise. Shame, as I've always used their stuff and rated it...

Tony, I had this with brand new Tourmax float valves recently - they leaked like a sieve, fuel pissing out the pilot air jets. The quality control on them is way off, I think, and they are nothing on the Mikuni ones I have since fitted, which do not leak... Not sure if I got fakes or if Tourmax stuff has just gone downhill in general? If you buy direct from Mikuni, it's cheaper than buying them in a Suzuki bag.

Anyone know the internal hex size for the damper rod tool on these usds? Trying to work out the correct tool for them to hold it in place... or make one myself. Thanks...

425ml and 120mm air gap.

Thanks, Fbob... wondered if it was just me!

Just gone to rebuild the usd forks on an 1100M and was stumped to find that the spacers at the top of the spring didn't have any holes for a spring compressor to fit into?! I've done other usd's from a TL1000S etc and have always had them to work with. I couldn't compress the spring without marring up the top of the spacer/playing russian roulette with the ratchet straps, so ended up drilling holes myself carefully in the spacer, which worked and allowed me to compress it. Is this a standard practice when rebuilding these? Or do people just rattle out the damper rod bolt and disassemble whilst it's not under tension. I've always done them with the damper rod left in if possible, as it can be aggro when it spins... Thanks

Ordered some Mikuni OE ones... spot the difference. Not sure whether I've been stung with 'fake' Tourmax stuff, but the quality of their valves is noticeably rough when compared to the OE. I hope this cures my rich running and leaking issue! Pic for comparison.

From the Tourmax parts catalogue...

I've used em in other bikes with success, but wonder if they've gone to Chinesium like everything else recently? Yes mate, carb 4 seems to leak no matter what I do with the new M4 needles (the correct ones). I'm not sure if it's poor quality control on the valve or the seat... (original seats from Mikuni from 1991!) Strangely, the K1 needles that were bought in error did not leak, but equally it ran way too rich with them. I guess I could swap the troublesome valve to another carb and see if it follows, but to be honest, these carbs have turned into such a time thief that I think Mikuni is probably the way to go...

I guess you can't put a price on not having your crankcase filling up with fuel, and I'm sick and tired and pulling these carbs on and off and buggering about with aftermarket kits that aren't quite right. The plan is to source some OEM Mikuni float valves and seats - not from Suzuki - and try again. I'm surprised someone isn't making a decent repro version of these bits rather than the naff copies on sale?! And if that doesn't work... flatslides?!!

So I put the new float valves in and bench tested it... aaand carb 4 pissed out fuel from here. Ffs. Float valve seats are clean - albeit the originals - and I can't see why it's leaking... Any ideas gratefully received... I can't justify the cost of OEM stuff at 300 quid all in!

Spot the difference... The K1 needles are very different and, I hope, the reason why it was running rich once hot as the fuel level would have been off.

This would explain it, and would also explain why my my other 1100M runs rich. Thank you, you are a legend... Just goes to show you can't trust Eblag descriptions!

Reassuring to know. Just wondered if the spring rates etc being different on the plunger will affect running. Yeah, the prices for OEM Suzuki stuff is verging on outrageous and they've really loaded them up over recent years.