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Neveragain55

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Posts posted by Neveragain55

  1. 57 minutes ago, TonyGee said:

    the part number i get is 37200-17C00 for that model ? which is "not available" as well.  you might have to look around for some new old stock.  what ive come across is their will probable be one that'll fit but it might have longer wires so that gives it a different P.N.  

    Thanks friend, that helps a lot.....(y)

  2. Hi Gang,

    So, it looks like Suzuki discontinued this particular part, P/N: 37200-45C22 which is the right-hand switchgear from a 89 GSXR1100.

    I'm trying to find a replacement part that would plug into my 1989 GSXR1100 wiring harness without a bunch of modifications, cutting, splicing, and soldering.

    I'm not having any luck in my search, and I think it's because of the age of this stuff.

    I'd like to stay away from used parts (if possible). I'm allergic to used electrical parts and I have a "just say no" policy when it comes to them.

    All of the electrical items (except for the wiring harness) I've sourced for this project are new, and I'd like to keep it that way for both reliability reasons & aesthetics. Simply put, I don't want 30+ year old, sun-faded stuff mixed in with all the other brand new parts going into this build.

    All of that said, can anybody tell me if Suzuki currently makes any switchgear that would plug right in and work?  (7/8 handlebar)

    If Suzuki doesn't make a "new" part from another model bike that would work, are there any units from another brand that would work?

     

                                                                                     As always, thanks in advance.......... 

  3. Update....

    I wound up buying a brand new 2004 Kawasaki ZX10 sprocket nut from Cheap Cycle Parts and test fitted it today, it threaded on the output shaft beautifully..... (y)

    I didn't do much past that because I'm super busy, but I'll report back later once we're sure we're getting the proper signal to electrically "stimulate" the clocks.

     

    This Suzuki speed rotor:

    1271767525_SpeedRotor.thumb.jpg.bc7e2c4c72d2e561c1dcc8f2e64b0ce1.jpg

     

    And this ZX10 sprocket nut:

    767132131_ZX10sprocketnut.thumb.jpg.170b0913de358e5e8679005b4c8634ae.jpg

     

    are almost identical "dimensionally" to each other on the corners where it counts.

     

    This is what it'll look like obviously once bolted on:

    P1160048.thumb.JPG.3ab9ccdd41478fc08282ee6f3a877a79.JPG

     

    As long as we get the clearance right, I think it's going to work.

    Promise to report back within a week or so with the progress and whether it was a success or not.

     

                                                   Thanks for getting me to this point gang, I would have never known about this trick without you guys.....

     

    • Like 3
  4. 1 hour ago, gray711 said:

    Keep us posted as the ZX10 nut is the route I thought I’d go after reading about it years ago somewhere :tu.

    Promise I will, I ordered a brand new one from Cheap Cycle Parts earlier today.

    Once it comes in I'll take it over the shop and give it a try.

    I'm gonna be honest, it it doesn't work, I'm just backing off of this idea altogether.

    I know everybody keeps telling me it can be done (and I believe them) but I'm "seriously" not interested in welding or fabricating anything up in that area after all the money that's gone into this motor, with my luck, something will get f*cked up and I'll hate myself.

    So if it works, great, if not, I'll just slap some Bandit 250 clocks on there (that have the cable that can be driven off the front wheel) and call it a day.

     

  5. 17 hours ago, Katana said:

    Or just get a machine shop to make you a sprocket nut with a bit on the end to fit the castle pick up to or make a cover that goes over the sprocket nut that has a grub screw to hold it on and have the castle pick up fitted to it. 

    I think I'm going to try the ZX10 sprocket nut and see what that does, if the thread pitch matches the Suzuki output shaft I may just get lucky.

  6. 2 minutes ago, Dezza said:

    If it's just the speedo not working then I agree with the above: it's a case of fitting a 'trigger wheel' to the front sprocket or output shaft, and a sprocket cover from a later Blandit that accommodates the sensor unit. The same sensor is used on multiple Suzuki models. If you use a MK2 600 Blandit cover, you can also do a cable clutch conversion at the same time. The sensor unit needs three wires: switched positive, earth (I think) and a new wire running to the clocks. The wiring wil be the same for e.g. GSXR 1000 clocks and even aftermarket clocks if you want to retain the stock Suzuki sensor unit.

    You're absolutely correct, I got a good, used Bandit 1200 cover that accommodates the sensor so no worries there.

    It was just the fact that we couldn't drill the output shaft because its case hardened steel, and every bit we tried literally went dull, there was just no way of drilling it. (and the motor is completely assembled)

    Then, we tried to tack weld a device in place to mimic "a trigger" and that didn't work either.

    We didn't think about or mess with the sprocket, but at this point, I really think I'm done with trying to make it work.

    So for now I'm just going to back off of trying to use the bandit 1200 clocks and go with something else.

    You guys re awesome though, and I appreciate all the help..... 

  7. 41 minutes ago, Blubber said:

    So it is just about getting the speed sensor to work?

    It just needs 4 pulses per revolution of the output shaft.

    1883594359_sensorrotor.JPG.0093654c0edfad51c0433a000e24cf09.JPG

     

    You need something to mimic that rotor and get a castelated nut / castle nut or a slotted nut.  

     

    1290222363_sensorNUTdraft.thumb.JPG.7452e95d1ebc61664a3e8d5619304b92.JPG

    i modified a standard EFE sprocket nut to work on my EFE engine with GSXR1000 clocks/ gauges 

    The modification i made was to weld the new style rotor on the OEM EFE nut with a spacer to clear the output shaft thread and get into the sensor range. 

    Sadly no pictures of it anymore -  in 2008 i used PB to host my pics and i closed that account. 

    HTH

    I wound up getting these:

    1018839801_96BanditGauges.thumb.jpg.9bebb07be318c2281987989064ed3e75.jpg

     

    I'm just going to go with these for now because they're easy enough to make work without having to make all kinds of welded up modifications.

    I appreciate your input and I'm definitely going to show your post to the engine builder to get his opinion.

    If I should ever revisit the idea of making the Bandit 1200 clocks work in the future, I'll refer back to your post.

    We just need to get this sorted so we can move forward with all the other things on the punchlist to mock the bike up.

     

                                                                                                   Thanks for the help........(y)

  8. 2 hours ago, wraith said:

    The MK2 clock's you have are all electronic and when you remove the back they are just a sircuit bord.

    The gsxr clock's are quite a deep clock compare to the MK2 bandit ones and you'd have to make a new mounting bracket.

    I've got a set of bandit mk1 clock's on my gs1000 which look pretty good on.

    Have you look at B4 clock's or even Zephyr clock's

    I did look at the Zephyr clocks and a few others from different bikes, and ultimately I decided on going with the 97 Bandit 250 clocks that you see in my original post.

    I found a brand new pair on AliExpress.

    I really hate the fact that I couldn't get the clocks I have to work, but at the end of the day, not having them is not a show stopper.

    Everything else I wanted for the bike I was able to do, so I'll just have to settle for a different set of clocks other than what I originally envisioned.

    Besides, the clocks I'm going with are a million times better looking than the GSXR clocks......

    • Like 1
  9. 2 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:

    Cos they are hidden away behind a fairing!

    Never taken Blandit clocks apart so can't answer the question - have you tried? The GSXR clocks are 'sealed' units but can be taken apart if careful as seen by folks replacing broken needles, but how you'd then mount the guts and stop them falling to bits through vibration / water etc. is anyones guess!

    True, they are hidden behind the fairing, but still.......I never liked them.

    No I haven't tried to take the GSXR clocks apart because sadly I don't have an experimental pair that I could do that with, but honestly the more I think about it, and the more replies I'm reading from all of you - I'm just going to back off of that idea all together.

                                                                                                Thanks for the reply buddy, much appreciated.....

  10. 23 minutes ago, TonyGee said:

    im assuming you used the mk2 front sprocket cover with the speed sensor in it ?  the problem their though is the output shaft isn't drilled for the pickup but it is possible to have it drilled,  or think of a way to fix the pickup to the front sprocket.  

    That was scary, you nailed it.....

    We tried every way under heaven to drill for the pickup but the shaft is hardened steel and we just sank thousands into the motor rebuilding it.

    Rather than destroy the shaft we just backed off....

    I'm ok with using the clocks from the 250 bandit.

    The wheel from that bike is 17 inches and the wheel on my bike is also 17 inches, so all we have to do is mount the cable actuator to my front wheel so it can drive the cable, and the rest is easy.

    The look is close enough to the 2001 Bandit 1200 clocks, and at least it looks better than those 89 GSXR110 "lopsided" clocks.

    Swear to God, I have no idea why Suzuki would make such an ugly setup.

     

                                                                                                                             Thanks for the replies.......

  11. 1 hour ago, TonyGee said:

    can i ask why you want to use mk2 clocks and not the better looking mk1's ? 

    I love these clocks....

    2040100985_Banditspeedo-tach1.jpg.ebbe99806753f59c1e184c38b3529606.jpg

     

    They remind me of the bullet style clocks that were on the 1970's Kawasaki 900's & 1000's

    For me, these are the best clocks for what I'm building....

    Which will look very similar to these bikes when she's done:

    517694761_FinalVersion1.thumb.jpg.57d9e0596c8b03eeda80414891063f4b.jpg

     

    235354498_FinalVersion3.thumb.jpg.9f568a7df39ab820def9f081da9ab298.jpg

     

    These clocks, on the bikes above (to me) would look horrible:

    1836348912_1989SuzukiGSXR1100Dash.thumb.jpg.aad1dfe9fc3774b4dfd89de830e58b51.jpg

     

    Know what I mean......

     

     

    • Like 1
  12. This truly is an insane question, but I’m desperate….

    Here we go…….

    We’ve tried everything under the sun to make the 2001 Bandit gauges work with our 89 GSXR110 engine, and all efforts have resulted in failure.

    Many of you wrote me back saying it could be done, but we just couldn’t and I’m done trying.

    If you can think of it, believe me we tried it, and rather than do any damage we’ve decided to just back away and go with a set of gauges from a 97 Bandit bike that has the speedometer cable that attaches to the front wheel.

    We can get all the parts necessary to make it work and it won't be a hassle.

    But, being the stubborn idiot that I am, I have one last idea……

     

    Is there any way possible to place the guts of these 89 GSXR1100 gauges:

    motorbike367590.thumb.jpg.487809b2d4b5cf770326f1bee3489223.jpg

     

    Into this 2001 Bandit 1200 housing:  

    f9c6caad2592cf44f3dce799e37ecf3e.thumb.jpg.727087650fb930197d9a841d730068bb.jpg

    I know....crazy.

    In other words (if the diameter of all of these gauges are the same) would it be possible to put the GSXR1100 gauges into the Bandit 1200 housing?

    I honestly don't care about any of the indicator lights at this point.

    I just want to know if it's possible.

    If the answer is “yes” I win, I can simply swap everything out and be a happy camper.

    If the answer is no, then I just go with these gauges (that I know I can make work) and I call it a day:

    1020871669_96BanditGauges.thumb.jpg.7014e94465f69d33810be7d56996638e.jpg

     

                                                                         Thanks in advance guys…..

  13. 29 minutes ago, eddiegsx said:

    That's correct wraith, but for one offs I'm sure they like to have the bike at their workshop . I think I'm right in saying the OP is from the USA.

    Just for the record, my racefit was already on the bike when I bought it, no deep pockets in my life.:)

    You're absolutely right, I'm in Connecticut, but I do believe - if I'm looking at their website correctly, that I could just order something and have it shipped over, or are you saying that my bike would actually have to be at their shop in order to have something made specifically for what I'm building?

  14. 45 minutes ago, wraith said:

    All depends on how deep your pockets are xD I've seen and heard racefit are very very good, and can do a one off to your bike if it's not a standard bike.

    Well that's just it, this is definitely not a standard bike, but the more I'm seeing from everybody's replies, the more confident I am that I can sort of "Frankenstein" something together, thanks for the reply

    • Like 1
  15. 50 minutes ago, 370steve said:

    I have had two Racefit systems made (one modified) they are very well made and extremely light, but they are noisy, even with NRI (noise reduction insert)!!

    on my GS

    100_5611.thumb.JPG.38f24c20f46adef24bce18ae34122e0d.JPG100_5615.thumb.JPG.ee15d9a6ea84ad2b9ee13a930f632486.JPG

     

    then bigger can

    100_6626.thumb.JPG.e2873c345334a821e70245fc970e1d6e.JPG

     

    then new one on my EFE build

    IMG-20201028-WA0000.thumb.jpg.2eba5fc967e0ea843acf42f611a209e8.jpgIMG-20201028-WA0001.thumb.jpg.4e0d563a89e877dd192a460c61b72007.jpgIMG-20201028-WA0002.thumb.jpg.87311bbe63c776cf9d4cd1e86bfb2337.jpg20201103_195333.thumb.jpg.5636e1055d0f007211e6e103e3389b21.jpg

     

    I've followed all of your build threads, and I just have to say that I think all of your bikes are seriously awesome and you have just about helped me made up my mind that it's going to be the racefit exhaust system, thanks for the reply

    • Like 1
  16. 36 minutes ago, eddiegsx said:

    I have a bespoke racefit system on my bandit, they produce a very high quality product.

    Having said that, not sure how much research you've carried out but if you buy the growler you sent the link for you won't get a complete system just link pipe and silencer. With the hindle you get the complete system, hope this helps.

    Looking forward to seeing the build:tu

     

    IMG_20210314_203610.jpg

    IMG_20210314_203955.jpg

    It does help, thanks very much, I was under the impression that you got the entire system with the racefit but it's actually okay because that means I can get a set of headers that I know for sure that will bolt up to my 89 engine block, thanks again for the reply

  17. Ok Gang,

    We’re getting to the point where most of the major components for “Project X” has been purchased and things are being test fitted as they come in. (promise to make a complete build thread when the entire bike is done)

    I’m at the stage where I have to get an exhaust so we can see how an exhaust designed for an 89 GSXR1100 engine will fit & line up with that particular engine being placed into a 1980 GS750 frame. Mounting brackets to fit the 1100 engine have already been welded in place and the motor has already been test fitted into the frame so no worries there. We just need to fit an exhaust into the picture at this point.

    Also, keep in mind that we hacked about 6 or 7 inches out of the rear section to fit a single seat, and there will be no passenger footpegs.

    I was looking at the Hindle exhaust and I like it, but then I stumbled (accidentally) on the Racefit exhaust systems, and I find myself drooling all over them.

    I’ve read a bunch of reviews and watched several YouTube sound clips and they look & sound awesome. (no, loud pipes absolutely don’t bother me)

    So to the point, Racefit sells exhaust systems for Bandits from 1996 all the way up to 2018, and by now I’ve learned that there isn’t much difference between the Bandit motors and the GSXR1100 motors.

    In your opinions……which year bandit motor system that Racefit offers should I select (if I do choose the Racefit over the Hindle)? (remember my motor is a 1989 GSXR1100 Slingshot engine)

    Here is the link to the Racefit system that I’m looking at:

    https://www.racefit.co.uk/collections/gsf1250-bandit

    The other questions are:

    Who out there has any experience with Racefit exhaust systems, and what are your impressions of them?

    Who out there has any experience with Hindle exhaust systems, and what are your impressions of them?

    Here is the link to the Hindle system that I’m looking at:

    https://www.ripplerockracers.com/product/suzuki-gsxr-1100-rrr-hindle-stainless-steel-exhaust-system-fits-1989-92-and-1993-in-usa/

                                                                  As always, thanks in advance…..

     

     

     

  18. Hi Gang,

    So I did a search and found a few threads in here about installing aftermarket, electronic gear indicators (and I know that the 89 GSXR1100 engines didn't have that feature) but I didn't specifically see anything where somebody installed one on the generation of bikes that didn't come with one from the factory.

    I was hoping one of you savvy cats that has a "work-a-round" for everything would know if it's possible.

    I'll answer the first question now........(why do I want one)......... 

    Because all my other bikes that I've ever ridden had them and I'm spoiled.

    I'd just really rather have one than not if I can help it.

    As usual any & all comments are welcome.

     

     

  19. 3 hours ago, Jonny said:

    Sounds like you have been very thorough. I guess the engine and wheel must be lined up same as they would have been in the 1100 frame. I had a bugger of a job with getting my rear wheel centred and the sprockets to line up but then the EFE was always designed to run a wheel with a narrower hub .

    Exactly....................

    That's what we ultimately did, got a narrower hub, along with machining some 20mm (ID) spacers of varying thicknesses so that we could manipulate the wheel where it needed to be. The stock spacers just weren't getting us where we needed to be.

    It took a while, and it took a lot of fab work but it finally lined up.

    I've seen literally hundreds of modified 70's & 80's bikes to fit larger engines, and wider front & rear wheels with front forks & rear swingarm from modern bikes, so...........it "can" be done.

    There's tons of talented people out there (many of them are members of this forum) and I've seen just about every hurdle you can imagine being overcome.

     

                                                                                          Where there's a will there's always a way brother......;)

    • Like 2
  20. 1 hour ago, TonyGee said:

    if the engine is offset will you have a problem with the headers hitting the frame down tubes ? 

    Agreed........but it's not.

    That's what I explained in the post, there was a ton of fab & weld work in making up tabs and strategically welding them in certain spots so that the new engine would sit damn near identical to where the GS750 engine sat.

    Right now the engine is out on a stand while lots of other work is being done.

    Once we're ready for a full mock up (after we've acquired a bunch of parts) we're going to do a final "fit" before un-assembly where almost everything will be going to the coating house for black powder coat.

    I'll post updated pics when that mock up happens so all of you can see how everything lines up and falls into place.

    Trust me.......there will be no crazy offsets with this bike, she's going to look like Suzuki built it when she's done.

    • Like 1
  21. 1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:

    Probably an optical illusion but that wheel does not appear central in the s/arm or frame!

    Good catch......

    That pic was taken when the wheel was first put in just to see where it would "fall"

    There were a bunch of modifications done since then, and we had to use a different cush drive along with machining some custom spacers, but it lines up beautifully now without that crazy offset.

    The front & rear sprockets are going to line up perfectly as if the original motor & rear wheel were in the bike.

    When I went into this I knew there be a bit of welding & modifications to make it all work but I had no idea that it would turn into as much as it did.

     

                                                                                                                                    All worth it.......:tu

     

     

    • Like 1
  22. On 2/15/2021 at 1:32 PM, Jonny said:

    Two questions: Are you going to need an offset front sprocket? If so you don't want to be swaping them about because they cost about 4 times as much as a normal one, so decide that first and mess about with the rears as you need.

    Second, are you running an extended swing arm? Because if you are, this could cause the chain to fowl the swing arm. I have an EFE engine in a GS750 frame and had to go up to a 17t on the front to clear the swing arm at the pivot. The longer the swing arm, the more likely it is to eat through your JMC arm. Too big a rear sprocket might cause a problem with the chain rubbing in the shocks over bumps as well.

    All great questions.....

    The swingarm is a vintage, 1980's under-braced, JCM swingarm (regular length), and no, I won't be needing an offset sprocket because there was quite a bit of work that went into welding up the tabs to hold & align the GSXR1100 motor with the rear wheel so that everything would line up as if the original 750 engine were still in the bike.

     

    Take a look, this was done after the engine was torn down (pre re-assembly)

    24.thumb.jpg.5392fc48b084d3419f7716a1bd93c07c.jpg

    26.thumb.jpg.1006a3d9d6934937bb78934f6da6809e.jpg

    27.thumb.jpg.72572cf0196c120694afa5d4adc860f6.jpg

    28.thumb.jpg.65c5948c15cf6c7ae24848efd239f96a.jpg

    29.thumb.jpg.338417a99c2a4cfb4762091574ae4a26.jpg

    30.thumb.jpg.be9a4f631287fbcd66503729c63a926e.jpg

    31.thumb.jpg.b9eed5f25cbdedc0cfe6b0911ac8129c.jpg

    32.thumb.jpg.5fc0c1618d5e69e38b54807b4e5f2475.jpg

    33.thumb.jpg.5c976df377185857bfdb6b1774229ef8.jpg

    25.thumb.jpg.c41d1903e574adc9246f3f6e0c97c4b8.jpg

    84.thumb.jpg.378d477d0a45318d8c46856aa33f099c.jpg

     

    • Like 1
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