Neveragain55
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Posts posted by Neveragain55
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13 hours ago, Sandman said:på med?
I do not understand the reason why some persons put on these way to wide tires. Is it for show of, or to show others that they have no idea what they are doing?"I do not understand the reason why some persons put on these way to wide tires. Is it for show of, or to show others that they have no idea what they are doing?"
Sandman, the aftermarket world of wheels, tires, and swingarms that accommodate wider than stock wheels on motorcycles is a billion dollar industry. The aftermarket world of high performance modifications for cars is even more, leading anybody to the conclusion that demand for these items has been at a high for decades now. To answer your question, it's a mix of many reasons. Some people like the "wide wheel/tire combination look" on their car or motorcycle, some people love the "staggered" look on their cars. Yes, some people feel as though it's a form of bragging rights or outdoing their buddies, while for others its purely about aesthetics and not fit, form or function. Bottom line is this, we all like similar & dissimilar things at the same time, and we should all understand & respect that. I'm a member of many car forums and at least 3 motorcycle forums and I've seen it all. I respect all of it, and I never questioned why somebody painted something purple instead of black or used "X" instead of "Z". I understand that none of us are ever going to agree on everything but the least we can do is be supportive. There's some super talented people in this forum with tons more knowledge than me and I respect what they've built. Think about how boring the world would be if we were all purists and never wanted to stray outside of how things came stock. It would make for a pretty boring world with no creativity, which sometimes leads manufacturers to supply what buyers are demanding.
Remember that chopper that H.O.N.D.A made during the chopper craze.......
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43 minutes ago, yantosh said:
and why wait till its done to make a build thread, use it as a diary of how the bike progresses ?
Honestly I thought about it but I hate leaving people hanging, and I don't expect for the bike to be done until early spring of 2022.
I hate following a thread and then it just stops for months, it's like watching a good movie that suddenly stops with no ending.
To your point I've tried to chronologically number all the pictures I've taken from the very beginning (including receiving parts) so that I can list them as things happened.
I've also made a running list of all the parts I've sourced so that I can share all of that when it's done.
The only few things left at this point are:
welding up the frame to strengthen it, fabricating a rear brake caliper torque arm, finishing the seat pan and having it padded & covered, fabricating up a header system (to fit the 80 GS750 frame) adding the oil cooler, putting in the wiring harness, putting the carbs on, running all the plumbing & cabling, wiring up the speedo, lights, and signals, powder coating about a billion things including the frame, wheels, rear swingarm, and front forks, figuring out which tires to use (which in the end will probably be the 180/120 set up), painting the tank, side panels, and rear section, bolting on the rearsets, etc., etc., etc.
I've actually shared quite a few pics in most of the threads I started, do a search of my threads and you'll see quite a bit.
And by the way, no tears and I take no offense to anything, it's all good here friend, I'm from Jersey.......we have titanium for skin.....
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4 hours ago, MeanBean49 said:
Imo a properly sized 180/120 looks way better than an ballooned out oversize tyre, its like looking at clown shoes
I agree......
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5 hours ago, yantosh said:
i'd rather see hard work done right than a big budget
And who says that this project wasn't done right with hard work......?
I think some of you in here took my comments about the budget personal or the wrong way, my apologies.
Make no mistake, tons of hours of hard work have absolutely gone into this project and by no means am I implying that it will be the greatest bike on the planet when she's done, but I'm very proud of the "hard work" that's been put into her thus far, and as far as the budget, again.....the money spent on this thing happened over a long period of time, in installments.
I certainly don't have the cash reserve to dump tens of thousands on anything in one felt-swoop.
When this project is over I plan on creating a build thread, and folks will either like it, love it, or hate it, and it's all good.
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9 hours ago, Joseph said:
Judging by the description of your project I was expecting a few more outstanding parts/setups.
Give her time friend, she's nowhere near done yet, much more to come........
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5 hours ago, dupersunc said:
The Pirelli 180/60 is basically 190 width. It was developed originally for supersport 600 bike 5.5" rims but with the contact patch of a 190.
Be warned though. With your engine and wheel combination the chain will run the side wall slightly. Never caused me an issue though.
You're absolutely right, that's why I'm always posting questions in here, you guys are the experts.
I think I'm going to have chain/tire rubbing issues with anything wider than a 180.
The more I think about it, I think I'm just being greedy about this.
The rear tire on the original wheel in this frame was a 4.0 (very thin)
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2 hours ago, TonyGee said:
some of us have no choice but to use second hand parts for our projects !!!!!
Friend, I meant no offense and I'm not made out of money, trust me.
I remember times in my life where I was pulling up to gas stations with quarter rolls to pay for gas, and eating dry cereal for weeks.....
I literally started out with just a frame and then parts came as available paychecks did, it took a year to pay for & rebuild the motor alone.
I've spent a ton of money (but over and extended period of time)
All I meant with my comment is that this is my dream bike project, and I decided at the very start that nothing would be done half-ass, regardless of how long it took or how much it costs.
I've seen projects in here where people have spent in excess of $50.000 and at the end everybody is congratulating them.
I've seen projects in here that took a weekend to finish and their just as awesome.
Thanks for the tips on the tires....
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3 hours ago, vizman said:
Funny, coz it looks like a lot of used parts….
…..triumphs rocket III run a sillyphatt 17 inch front tyre, but it doesn’t look aggressive, it just looks like a curb bumper.
I know what looks aggressive to me, that’s tyres that have no chicken strips and are ruffled and bobbly on the edges….….
…. irrelevant of their size, oh and slicks/wets.
ET looks good with the stubbier rear end
Well, obviously the frame, front end, rear swingarm, motor, tank, side panes, wheels, and rear tail section section are all used, I meant the internals of everything.
Plus, all of those parts I just mentioned were either rebuilt or will be along with being powder coated and new paint down the road to look new.
I went down to the shop today and took another look at everything and I think the chain line is going to screw me - as the chain as it sits now is barely off of the edge of the rear tire.
5mm more and I'll have rubbing issues, so............I think my idea is already done.
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2 hours ago, Joseph said:
180 Dunlops are usually around 188mm in real life, for example
That's probably why a lot of the chatter I see online says that the Dunlops are my best bet because they fit the 5.5 rim correctly without the pinching.
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3 hours ago, yantosh said:
done a couple of complete custom builds myself , got any pics, sounds good?
The pic with the rim without a tire was taken before all of the machine work to get it to center up, the rear wheel is centered now but we still have to "dish" the left side of the frame where the chain routes in order for the chain to not hit the frame. We're also going to reinforce the frame by welding in braces.
The picture with the motor in shows how we're currently mocking her up. Once everything has been fitted, everything will come apart for more customized frame work to be done including powder coat.
The picture with the Black Widow exhaust that I got from the UK fits the motor (1989 GSXR100 Slingshot completely rebuilt and punched out with an 1186 Wiseco kit and tons of other goodies). The headers don't work though because of course we have a 1989 GSXR1100 motor in a 1980 GS750 frame, and exhaust tubes 1 & 4 bump into the downtube's of the frame.
So we have to have an exhaust system custom made to fit. There are no "off-the-shelf" items anywhere that will fit our setup.
This is not a: "slap a bunch of used parts together & go" project.
Everything on this bike has been either completely rebuilt or will be, and all the wheel bearings, spacers, nuts, bolts, washers, electric's, controls, etc., etc., etc. are "mostly" new Suzuki parts from Japan. I tried my best to stay away from eBlag as much as possible and you don't want to know what I've got invested in this thing at this point......
We've been at this for close to 2 years now, and she still won't be ready until next summer.
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3 hours ago, badger said:
The pirelli was a much wider tyre
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1 hour ago, badger said:
A pirelli diablo supercorsa 180/60 scrubs hard on my chain, a continental race attack has about 10mm clearance.
From what I know about Pirelli tires they have very aggressive lean angles & edges for aggressive cornering.
I'll check out the Continentals, thanks...
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1 hour ago, TonyGee said:
you can get 2 tires that are the same size but one will look wider. i spoke to our local bike tire fitter a while back and he knew what 180 tires looked wider than others. might be worth talking to someone who knows which ones look the widest. just a thought.
Good point I'll ask some people I know that are in the business to get there opinion.....
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54 minutes ago, Joseph said:
The commas should be on "aggressive", not "looks".
Nobody will feel any fear/awe over 10mm extra rubber when seeing your bike
You will definitely be better off fitting the correct size of tyres for the rims you have.
True its only a pinch wider and your probably right in that it wouldn't be very noticeable, but........
It's just one of those "I want what I want" situations.
Like I said, if it can't be done, it can't be done, but I don't live in the world of "it can't be done"
If that were the case, 90% of what's been done to this bike would have never been done......
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10 minutes ago, yantosh said:
or fit a 6" rear wheel
See my reply to Captain Chaos....
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45 minutes ago, Captain Chaos said:
Why not just use 120 and 180 tyres?
Great question......
The 120/180 set up is fine, but I'd like a more aggressive "look"
Long story short, this bike is a complete custom build that went waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay over budget a long time ago and I absolutely don't feel like sourcing different wheels at this point.
Secondly: it took months, and tons of energy, time, effort, and machine work to make the existing rear wheel work, including machining a custom axle bolt, and modification of the frame to make room for the chain, so there's no way I'm throwing a monkey wrench at all of that by switching up with a different rear wheel.
If it's not possible then I'll leave it alone, but I've scoured the internet for days on this subject and it looks like hundreds of people (including racers) have done it, so it can't be impossible to do.
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Ok Gang,
I’ve done a bunch of research on this topic and I found a bunch of good information but I still have a question or two.
I know that many rims can accommodate a wider tire but it’s not suggested due to the fact that the shape of the tire gets squeezed, the dynamics of the contact patch area changes, and it behaves differently in corners other than how it was designed to behave……I got all that.
My research has lead me to the conclusion that “allegedly” the Dunlop GP-A 190/60R17 rear tire will fit a 5.5 x 17” rear rim correctly and not be “squeezed”.
In other words it’s supposed to look & perform as it would on a 6” rim.
This guy: (Dunlop GP-A 190/60ZR17)
Hopefully some of you in here will have experience in this area and be able to speak to it.
If this is true, then my new dilemma is finding either a 130 x 17" or 140 x 17" front tire that will properly fit on a 3.5 x 17” front rim, and also not be squeezed while performing properly.
Basically I’m looking for a 130 x 17” or 140 x 17” front tire that will fit my 1995 (3.5 x 17”) front rim, and I need a 190 x 17” rear tire that will fit my 1995 (5.5 x 17”) rear rim, and they both need to fit properly.
As always, all comments are welcome, thanks
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5 hours ago, Spazpecker said:
Its the same on my KTM, euro shite means lights on all the time. I ride with my lights on all the time but that's my choice! You can remove the plain cover and put the switch in. May need to re pin the block
Yes, I thought about that, but I'm horrible at soldering & assembly of such small electrical components, and I still would have to find another unit with a donor light switch
It's a great suggestion, but I still would have had the issue of having a "wide" switch only made worse by butting up a push/pull throttle next to it.
The reach for my thumb to turn things on & off would be ridiculously long.
Going with the "slimmer" Yamaha unit with the headlight switch already incorporated into it solved three problems in one.
I'm going to keep the switch I have though, I may have a use for it in the future some day.
Thanks for the tip......
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3 hours ago, Dezza said:
Does the bike have a e.g. USA spec loom? If so this will differ slightly to a loom meant for a bike for a market that requires a 3 way light switch. It would have been easier to fit a USA spec 2 way light switch (on/off) but the 3 way switch will work if you wire it P for on, so the lights will stay on when switched through to ON. If you wire to ON, the lights will not come on when switched to P. In the UK, some pedantic MOT testers may have an aneurism over this and fail the bike but that's not going to be a problem in the US.
Yes, I believe the wiring loom is US spec as I bought it from a motorcycle wrecking yard in California where all parts sold come from wrecked & used motorcycles here in the states.
I think what your telling me is that the Yamaha switch I just bought from Japan and the switch that came from the Netherlands may be wired differently and that I may have to do some wiring to make either one of them work with my US spec wiring loom.
The switch that came from the Netherlands doesn't have the headlight on/off button, so.........it's a moot point, that's why I bought the Yamaha unit.
I just went back on Eblag and looked at a bunch of used 1987 to 1993 GSXR1100 R/H switches and (to your point) all of the US spec switches have different connectors from the UK switches.
Also, all of the US spec switches have a different connector from the two that I bought.
Ok.......I got it, when the Yamaha switch from Japan comes in, I may have to do some wiring to make it work but I will make it work, because again, it has everything that I need.
I'll come back with a follow up once it's all done in case somebody else in the future runs across this same issue.
Thanks for the guidance Dezza.....
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6 hours ago, Dezza said:
What country is the bike originally from? Right bar switches have always varied according to the market the bike was sent to for bikes 70s,80s,90s. E.g. UK bikes have a 3 stage switch: off, parking light, main light. The rear lights work on the parking light circuit and the switch has 2 separate circuits: parking light and main lights. For USA models, they never had a parking light. The switch was on/off, so the rear light works off the main light circuit. The switches I have seen with no on/off function (lights on all the time) are more recent. I assume this is due to market standardisation across e.g. all EU countries, which makes mucho sense for manufacturers. Anyway, that switch looks a bit like one from an SV 650 but with a parking light function: is it from an RF900? I think they use that sort of switch but with a parking light function but I may be wrong. The colour coding will be very similar to the GSXR but you will have to remove the wires from the block and rearrange them in the correct manner first at least. Don't be surprised if you have to faff about with different feeds: I recently fitted a switch from a DR650 to a GSXR loom and the switch uses a single feed to both circuits rather than 2 for the gsxr, even though the switch had a parking light function.
Hi Dezza,
So, .I'm building a bit of a Frankenstein bike (like most of us in here) and it has many parts. (all mostly Suzuki)
I have an 89 GSXR1100 Slingshot engine that's been punched out with an 1186 Wiseco piston kit, and there are a ton of other mods done that would take too long to explain here. (a project build thread will be created once I'm done)
Needless to say the wiring harness is for that same 89 motor so I wanted to stick with 89 GSXR1100 handlebar controls and like everything else with this build - I'm getting quite the education......
The left side switch came from a Suzuki OEM source here in the states, and it's fine, no issues. But like I wrote in my original post, the right side switch that I got does not incorporate the headlight on/off button, and it has one hole for a single throttle cable.
The right side switch came from these guys: https://www.cmsnl.com/ and they're located in the Netherlands, so I have no idea where they get their parts from.
They were the only place I was able to find a "new" switch from, so I'm giving up on trying to find another new switch that will have everything I need.
Plus, I needed a right-hand switch that accommodates push/pull cables for the Keihin FCR Flatslides going on the bike and the switch I got from CMS only has one hole for a single cable.
Solution: I found a 2000 Yamaha YZF-R1 right hand switch that gives me everything I need. The part was advertised on the UK version of Eblag, and it's located in Japan. I have no idea of the switches origin, but it's a good bet that it started its life in Japan and has always remained there.
The Yamaha switch is thin enough to accommodate the push/pull throttle set up that I need, and it has an on/off button for the headlight.
I probably went overboard with my explanation but it's in my nature to over explain. (sorry, I like to be clear)
Hope all of that answers your questions, and addresses your comments.
Thanks for the reply...
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I just went on Eblag and bought a used one of these, but it looks brand new:
The female plug looks pretty much identical to the Suzuki unit so it should plug right in.
I promise I'll come back with a follow up down the road once the part comes in.
The part is coming in from Japan so it's going to be a bit.
Thanks for all the advice guys.......
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21 minutes ago, Fazz711 said:
Looks like the switch with no on off may be for north America Market.
I have a SRAD which is the same.
That is a grey import from Canada I believe.
My previous SRAD was UK one and had on off on the lights.
Yes this part came from a company called CMS and I believe they're based out of the Netherlands.
You can't get a right hand switch here in the states for an 89.
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1 hour ago, HWB said:
My post from 3 weeks ago, same question
Thanks, I got a lot of good ideas out of that thread....
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Hi Gang,
I promise I searched on this one but I came up with nothing.
I received the brand new, stock, left & right handlebar switches for my project bike and I noticed that there is no on/off switch for the headlight.
These stock switches are for a 1989 GSXR1100. (I got lucky and found brand new ones)
The left side switch has controls to switch the lights from low to high beam, a horn, and turn signals.
Here:
The right side switch has controls to select power, and a start button, and that’s it, but no button to turn the headlight on & off.
Here:
Was the headlight on the 89 GSXR1100 the “constant running” type?
I’ve never owned one so I wouldn't know.
I absolutely don’t want the headlight to constantly be on all the time.....
My 79 GS750E has the switch that allows you to turn the headlight on & off and I’m just used to that.
So, my question is, did the supplier/vendor send me the wrong switch, should there have been a button to turn the headlight on & off, or again, did these bikes come with "constant running" headlights?
The next question would be, can anyone give me some suggestions for wiring in an on/off headlight switch - if the switch I have is correct?
Lastly, I’m putting 39mm Keihin FCR Flatslide (push/pull) style carburetors on this thing, and I only have one cable hole on the right hand switch.
These are the carbs going on the bike:
The carbs will come with a set of push/pull cables and I believe a throttle control designed for the push/pull cables, but I’m wondering if there’s anyway I can make that "second hole" that's necessary for the cables in the bottom of the switch that I currently have. That way, the throttle doesn’t have to sit so far to the right of the switch.
As you can see in this picture, there's only one throttle cable hole in the right-hand switch:
As you can see in this picture, the housing where the cables will route will take up space and push the throttle further to the right. If I can route the cables into the switch above, it will look & feel better.
As usual all suggestions are welcome……
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Wider tires fitting older rims properly
in Oil Cooled
Posted
The build was started quite some time ago, is ongoing as I type these words, and will not stop until finished.
I have that rare ability to work, build, play, live, and make lists all at the same time.
Once finished a build thread will follow suite.
Amazing how that crystal ball of yours saw me not working on my project while I was making a list (sarcasm).
Have a great day friend.........