B12Mick
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Posts posted by B12Mick
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Quality job
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Looking good
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
So you are using 'evidence' from a car, two cylinder head , modified for excessive boost against a 4 cylinder head with normal studs and torque fasteners - talk about comparing oranges and bananas!
Just saying that I find it easier to bench shim heads after they have been overhauled ( unless they are screw and locknut adjusters ) be it car or bike heads I'm doing at the time.
Apologies to the OP if this is going off topic.
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A few tenth's of a thou distortion when the heads on the Subaru flat 4 are pulled down can upset the valve clearances especially when using oversized14mm head studs for high boost applications on them.
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I bench shim the heads for the engines I build at work and set them to the top end of the tolerances so when the
heads are torqued down on the crankcases, the clearances normally end up cock on in the middle of the spec.
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Considering it's 4 inches over on the swing arm, it still looks well proportioned - cracking bike
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Loving the Dymag's - pure filth
How much has the swingarm been extended by ?
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Picked up a set of valve stem seals and a base gasket from Robinson's 2 weeks ago for future use - normally check their website every couple of weeks
to see whats been discounted.
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Stag Wellseal is great stuff to hold gaskets/O rings in place when snaking cam covers back on.
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23 hours ago, Jaydee said:
Half the battle is resisting touching up a coat while it's still tacky. Each coat 'flats out' as it dries. Make sure the paint is bone dry before touch ups or second coats.
Cheers Jaydee, will resist the temptation until each coat is dry
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Jaydee, the satin finish looks spot on in your picture- I picked some up from Halfrauds on Sunday
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Thanks for all the suggestions - always good to get real reviews instead of the manufacturers blurb.
Will see what I can pick up tomorrow and get cracking.
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Any recommendations for a semi gloss black enamel paint which actually works and lasts - a lot of the decent older paints seems to have gone all eco friendly and dont last.
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Yep, Wiseco pistons
Dont forget to gap the new rings before fitting
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Any closer to sorting the problem out bud ?
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The fittings for PTFE hose will have an olive to go between the PTFE liner and the braid
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Are the engine breathers clear ?
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On 12/26/2018 at 4:55 PM, Captain Chaos said:
seriously?
My mate thought so but his were black
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My mate bought a pair of them for his GSX750 - bad mistake - he had to rob the brake master cylinder off my B12 project so we could make it down to
the Ace Cafe for Blue Haze Day.
There was no way at all it would bleed up - we are both in the motor trade and tried all the usual tricks, bench bleeding/vac bleeding/leaving it overnight with the level cable tied back etc etc.
It was eventually launched into the corner of the workshop !
Looks pretty but one POS.
Stick with OEM is my advice.
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5 hours ago, CossiEst said:
I've got this one. Bought it to match the dynojet wideband gauge. It's mechanical and needle shakes like hell, I only get decent readings when bike is at full boost. Thing was like 6x the money of the previous glycerine filled one....
Sounds like you need to put a restrictor in the boost signal pipe near to the gauge to damp the needle if its shaking.
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Thanks for the info and yeah, not surprised the pistons were slappy at 4 thou
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10 hours ago, Blower1 said:
I have EFE cylinder block sleeved with B12 barrels and Busa pistons. Piston to bore clearance is 0,05mm ( 0.0020" ).
Thanks Blower1
What sort of boost are you/will you be running on your setup with that P/B clearance on the standard factory forged busa pistons ?
If your bike is up and running, do you get any piston slap from cold until the pistons expand with heat ?
Thanks and sorry to the OP for jumping on their thread.
TL1100RS
in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
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Looks mint