slabsideB12Kent

Driving ban lifted, i've been riding the bike again for a while now (2k miles). During my driving ban I sonic cleaned the carbs, swapped the needles + springs back to standard (have another modified bike). The bike no longer has the issue of surging due to the original needles and needle springs being refitted. The main jets of the carburettors are not standard. Obviously balanced the carbs when I refitted them. I still have an issue with difficult cold starting and shaky running under low throttle. If the bikes run in the last few days it will start immediately or quickly. Give it 5 days plus and she just doesn't want to start. Takes around 4 bursts of 10 seconds of starting. When she starts it will backfire on choke and the RPM will jump around on the tachometer. During warming the bike will sometimes bog down from a low throttle. Once up to temperature the bike pulls like a train but at very low throttle positions it jiggles back and forth. I'm wondering if it's the pilot screws? Possibly the bike is running rich/lean with a closed/partially opened throttle? Otherwise chain and sprockets? No problem with excess fuel consumption. Any ideas? Thanks, Chris

Just found a 750 shock on facebook, very happy!

I'm looking for some advice on the reincarnation of my 87 7/12. Currently running standard 1200 engine, carbs, loom and rear wheel, old skool micron 4-2-1 (dyno @ 120bhp) Handles really well compared to the 18" deamon it was before. I've been collecting parts for a while now and I now want to start the strip down and reassemble. My questions are, I have an ohlins 1100 rear shock, is it possible to get the length and stroke adjusted? Can a gsxr 750k1 rear wheel be made to fit the swing arm? (so rear wheel matches the front) Would a slingshot curved oil cooler fit under a slabby fairing? I'm thinking about mukini rs 36 Flatslides, good idea? Regards, Chris

Sorry for the late reply, I found the carbs had a dynojet kit in them. I sonic cleaned them and then got banned so haven't got any further...

The advice is great thank you. When I raised the needle I could see wear in the coating of the needle, not something I saw when I raised the needle on my 7/12 back in the day. I bought new standard pilot jets from Fowlers of bristol Wednesday morning and for £6 they turned up today (Thursday). Very happy. I'm going to fit them at the weekend and hopefully all will be well. Thanks again for the advice, for those who care/need to know I will post again soon.

Thanks for taking the time to read what is one of the most posted questions on the internet regarding 1200 Bandits? (possibly) Bought the bike recently after a 3 year break and im so happy, the suzuki engine is amazing. This is my third one. When I test rode the bike all seemed well. After a week I found the carburettors needed balancing. Balanced the carbs and found there was a 1000-3500 rpm flat/wobble spot while under load. So I raised the needle to the second clip and while things are better the revs through the 1000-3500 rpm range are erratic. So as I approach the apex of a bend with a closed throttle and open the throttle there is a serge in power at the apex that cannot be predicted. The idle is also alittle rough and if you open the throttle while in neutral the revs rise as the throttle is opened, if I then keep the throttle where it is the revs will slowly then increase. Choke is a nightmare but since I raised the needle the bike doesn't stall under breaking. If the bike idles for along time at a set of lights it becomes very difficult to regulate throttle and seems to "bog down". Bike has an Art rear can, has been "dynojetted" and has a K&N filter in the standard airbox. I'm going to look at the carbs this BH weekend. I'm thinking of a clean concentrating on the pilot jets, mixture screw settings and float bowl heights, while changing the air filter and needle height back to standard Any more idea???