slabsideB12Kent

I have a GSXR 750 Slabside with a 1200 Bandit engine and a 750 4-2-1 Micron exhaust fitted, the exhaust is very tight. The exhaust hit the 1200 Bandit sump so I switched to a 750 Slabside sump and the exhaust hits the oil cooler connections instead. I saw a 1100M system on Eblag and snapped that up and discovered that the 1100 system is different to the 750 as the 4-2-1 section is more spread out i.e. flat rather than stacked on top on each other. I'm thinking of swapping to a GSXF sump as the sump/oil pan looks shallower and the drain hole is in the middle, more suitable to this 1100 system. But if I look at the pictures of all the different sumps online the GSF1200, GSXR750 and GSX-F all have different castings around the area near the front of the engine, something to do with oil circulation? Also the oil cooler line location changes with each model. Can anyone tell me if there are any oil cooling consequences from changing the sumps around?

So today I've removed the cushion lever from the back of the bike as the spherical bearing was giving me noticeable movement at the rear axle (3mm with noticeable clunk). I have some other cushion levers bought from Eblag as they were cheap 2 x 750's and an 1100 and all the bearings have play in them.. I've got one sat in front of me and it measures 12X26X16mm but... Specific measurements are 12mm (inside diameter) X 26 (outside diameter) X 16mm (width of the ball) but very importantly the outer race width is 13mm. The Suzuki item has a wider outer race at 13mm so the fit between the retaining clips won't be tight up to the bearing. Because I've taken apart four of these things today I can tell you that the distance between the retaining clips is more than 13mm with no issues from the bearing moving (i.e it hasn't). So I'm going to go with the bearing from, https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p554342/Major-Branded-GE12PB-Steel-/-Phosphor-Bronze-Spherical-Plain-Bearing-12x26x16x12mm/product_info.html I can keep one cushion lever as a spare if this new bearing doesn't cut the mustard - I think this item does not have the correct dynamic load capacity.

I'm in the UK and looks as if my lights are dipping to the right, I'm going to try and adjust them as I can't see any other choice

I'm still recommissioning by 87 Slabside - things are going well but.. I have two sets of headlights that both seem to shine into the middle of the road. My bandit illuminates the near side on dipped beam and the GSXR shines into the middle of the road. Any ideas? Thanks

Sorry I meant to say 102Db - I've adjusted my last post.

I saw that lubrication groove too!

Somebody on this site has recommended Simply bearings. I went onto the site and found this item, https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p554342/Major-Branded-GE12PB-Steel-/-Phosphor-Bronze-Spherical-Plain-Bearing-12x26x16x12mm/product_info.html I'm concerned the dynamic load rating is too low and that a pothole could destroy it.

I fitted the narrower bore downpipe system which includes a baffle in the outlet along with a rebuilt road legal end can and the system measure less than 102Db. Very happy

I had my GSXR 7/12 Dyno'd at Bob Farnham years ago with a Micron spring attached "Race system" using standard 1200 Bandit carburetors with foam filters. Came out loud running 125 rwhp I want to take the bike around Brands Hatch but it fails the 102 Db reading test by alot. I have no option but to convert to another Micron system I have which is smaller in diameter, bolts at the manifold and has a baffle in the end of the downpipes, then including a "road legal" end can that I've repacked. I think this more restrictive exhaust will make the bike run rich? When I got the bike back from the dyno years ago I had issues with lean conditions when I opened the throttle slightly so they recommended I raise the needle. I'm thinking that once I fit the more restrictive exhaust I should probably at least lower the needle back one or even two stops and adjust the pilot screw? I've rebuilt the carbs but didn't record the jet sizes, should I expect to change the jet size? Opinions gratefully received, thanks

So using the Micron spring fitted exhaust downpipes I had on the bike before but with a can marked road legal I failed a noise test using a Db meter borrowed from work. Probably my fault as I removed the baffle from the end of it years ago. Looks like I'm going to have to fit another system I have that uses bolts at the manifold and has the baffle in place with the road legal end can.

I'm looking for a slip on end can with an inside diameter of 63mm that's either road legal or under 102Db. I've been recommissioning my bike for a while now and discovered that my old MOT end can is unlikely to pass any longer as all the seals are hanging out. Rebuilding would be an option but it's been down the road. I've searched the internet and cant seem to find end can rebuild kits or 63mm internal diameter end cans. I want to put the bike on the road and take it round brands hatch this year so need a non race can option (I have a damaged race can). Any ideas?

I've spent hours looking online and I'm settling with the 21/75 spring. I used this website https://j-techsuspension.co.uk/pages/spring-calculator to calculate the spring rate needed using a rider weight of 15 stone, rear wheel travel of 5 inches and a shock stroke of 2.4 inches to calculate a spring rate of 440 lbs/in. I found an Ohlins spring decoder which I've attached which says the 21/75 spring suits a 428 lb/in, so that's close enough. The 34/100 spring has a rate 571 lbs/in which equates to about 25kgs of clobber so if the bikes soft I know what to do. Not too bothered about the suspension being soft at the rear because it's what I'm used too and the forks are running standard springs.

I've been working on my Slabside GSXR1200's rear suspension today. Ended up taking the whole rear end to pieces to gain proper access to the shock (1200 Bandit loom is placed in that area). I was very happy afew months ago when I saw an Ohlins shock for sale on Eblag. Today I went to fit it and now i'm unsure if whether I should swap the springs or not as I dont want to do this job again anytime soon. I just wonder if anyone knows how to decode the spring rates on an Ohlins shock? I have two springs one is labelled 01091 21/75 and the other is labelled 01091 34/100. And if anyone has experience which spring rate suits a 750 Slabside with an 1100/1200+++ motor it it. Done some Googling and it seems 01091 is the spring design 12/75 and 34/100 is the spring rate I probably weigh 125kg's/20 stone with all my clobber on but I am quite used to the soft handling of a 1200 Bandit.

Also. Which ever carburetors I buy will be fitted to a GSXR 1100 M motor, The Bandit motor will be saved for spares. I won't be messing with the engine internally as I'll be happy with the power it produces. Because the Mikuni's are all the same price it makes it more difficult to make a decision. I know that the 40mm's will be overkill.

So I see a CV carburetor as the standard item with the diaphragm acting slide. I like the idea of smooth bore flatside Mikuni's as I will be able to meter the fuel. Slightly concerned about fuel economy regarding the accelerator jump but I find CV carbs jerky and laggy. I wish for abit more power at the top end but mid range torque is where I spend most time riding. For the exhaust I'm going to be using a Micron 4-2-1. I think the 4-2-1 gives you a bit more bottom end? Would be great to have a bike with 38mm carbs and tell everyone it makes 130+bhp. But. Sounds like a set of 34mm or 36's could be a good idea?

I know this has probably been asked a 1000 times on this forum but each situation is different. What's better for the road, 36mm or 38mm flatsides? I have a GSXR 750 Slabside with a 1200 bandit lump in it. It runs out of top end at times and I've always thought that a Gsxr 1100 engine would suit the chassis more. I've found myself a Gsxr 1100 engine and rather than recondition the 40mm CV's I'm thinking of putting 36mm or 38mm flatslide carburettors on it. I'm hoping flatsides will help the engine breathe so I can get more power but I'd like the bike to work in situations like traffic. I enjoy the torque of the 1200 lump riding the bike around A roads, so I don't necessarily need to have 40mm flatsides.

So I've had the bike for a month now. It has stickers on it written in English, French and German but there's a couple that are English and German only.

Im not sure what valve adjustment is used in this bike, am I right in thinking its before the cross over period? Are there any downsides to the shim head?

Found out the bike is a Gv73a vin number with a v710 engine

Good point Joseph. I'm just wondering what's going on. The Japanese didn't sell 1100's at that time when I ask Google. Afterwards they were restricted to 100bhp? I also read that the French GSXR 1100 had a different head...

Is it just a case of fitting an ECU from a UK bike and bigger carbs then its a goer?

Guy at work said he has a Japanese import GSXR 1100M for sale. The bikes in bits and im just after the engine, figure its a good way of increasing the power of my bike (its got a 1200 bandit lump). Does anyone know how to tell which country a bike came from? Ive asked for the engine and VIN numbers. My fear is its a French model or something like that which is restricted.

Things are going well. I have been screwing in the pilot screw thinking it was set to 3.5 turns out. I had actually set it to standard 1 3/4 turns out. Seems like the bike was "lean surging". I have set the pilot screws to 2 turns out and the bike is transformed on closed throttle.

I did indeed remove the dyno jet kit (CV slide springs and needles), replaced the main jet with the standard ones and used a carbtec kit to replace all rubber o rings the running of the bike improved. After I refitted the carbs the bike ran better but I have erratic idle and "surging/wobble" at small throttle openings. If I adjust the idle screw it changes the nature of the surging and moves it in the rpm range. The bike runs rough on choke, idle speed fluctuates, it can bog down on occasion during warm up. It's looking like I will have to remove the carbs again and replace the emulsion tubes to rule them out, as well as check the valve clearances. The saga continues...

Bikes done 22k Miles. It's always had this issue though during my ownership. "mark35gun" worn emulsion tubes is an interesting one. I was thinking pilot screw setting (3.5 turns out) , float height (standard), chain and sprockets (runout) or fuel tap vacuum leak. I have a spare set of carbs so I could rob the tubes from the other set, seems like this fault could be a slow burn...