Muddy
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Posts posted by Muddy
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Others will know better, but I'd try dropping the forks lower in the triples until it wants to stop tucking. Worked for my SV1000 with different front end.
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Tank liners polarise people - some love 'em, others hate 'em. I've used Red-Kote and KBS both with good results - both are similar to POR from what I understand. The liner I pulled out of my Kat tank after buying it was just a real mess. The tank had not been cleaned properly before applying the liner and the liner was just left as a big thick puddle in the bottom of the tank - no wonder it had let go in so many places. If you spill the liner on a painted tank, it will take a bit of removal.
I do like Swiss Toni's suggestion for a painted tank.
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I have one fitted to an 1100 Katana. They are a nice bit of work.
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You gotta be happy with that. Your old man did a great job on that rear unit.
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God, that is bloody awesome - great work.
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Thanks to you both. I asked the seller to check before I inspected and it turns out you were both right. No need for me to inspect any more.
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G'day Guys
Can you please help me ID what this is?
Advertised as a GSX1150 EF here in Australia, but I'm not so sure. It appears to have full floater rear suspension, but front end doesn't look right. Anti-dive looks like earlier model and the fairing/wheels don't look the part either.
Opinions most welcome.
Thanks
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I was thinking the same thing. The whole system also looks like this thing.
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55 minutes ago, johnr said:
run all three output phases from the alternator directly into all three input phases on the reg rec, dont worry about colours, theyre unimportant, reg rec will just have 3 yellow inputs, use them in any order. disconnect the loop that goes to the switch and stick pins inn a voodoo doll of suzukis wiring designer, fucker deserves all the pain he gets...
Thanks. That made me laugh!
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20 minutes ago, johnr said:
lets also remember that gs/gsx reg recs failed mostly because of the fucking insane way that suzuki chose to wire them as stock with two phases direct to the alternator and a single phase through the lightswitch. if youre fitting a new reg rec but leaving the phases configured as suzuki designed then youre just saving up trouble for another day.
Any hints on the correct way?
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Not sure if you've read this, but some great info here and enough to make me steer clear of the cheap stuff:
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18 hours ago, Blower1 said:
No. It´s as reliable as original 1074 when done properly.
As a matter of fact 1074 block with 1135 sleeves can have better cooling than original 1135 block, because the air gaps
between cylinders in 1074 block are wider.
Thanks, good to know.
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18 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
How about using GSXR sleeves in your 1100 block - they are 78mm std and so will be the biggest in that block = 1260cc and more likely to be plentiful in Aus. ? - looks like you'll be boring something but aluminium is easier than steel LOL!
Yes, you're probably right, coupled with the observation that 1150 blocks are as rare as here.
5 hours ago, et1170 said:Bore the standard block for a 1170 cc kit, a bit more power and totally reliable.
So do the 1260 kits tend to make the set-up unreliable because of the oversized sleeves?
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Righto, you've got me thinking now - bore and resleeve the stock block or bore a GSX1150 block (if I can find one - they seem to be rare in Aus)?
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16 hours ago, Ibbo said:
Hi muddy,
I was thinking the finning is probably bigger on the 1135 for more cooling?
G'day Ibbo, yes my very limited understanding is that the 1135 block would be a better option, but I'm running out of money
! Sleeves, pistons, carbs all from the US (Aussie prices are expensive), plus cost of machining etc. I'd love to get the 1135 block, but will try to make do with what I have at present.
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Sorry, should have been clearer - I was thinking of putting in new Mikuni RS carbs with trumpets and Ramair filters.
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I've got a Katana 1074 cc engine and was thinking of going down the 1260 cc route with bigger sleeves in the stock block.
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Great info and nice to hear from the voices of experience.
Thanks muchly.
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I'm after the voice of some experience please. If I was thinking of boring a 1100 Katana to 1260, what would be the recommended carb sizes ie 36, 38 or 40 mm or something else? No track work, just street and twisty road use.
Thanks.
Regards
Muddy
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On 8/26/2019 at 7:35 PM, RevinKevin said:
Hi I am after a set of new exhaust valves for m y 1986 EFE . Have searched the web here downunder in the land of Mad Max and nothing available . Any suggestions of where to get a set ? Thanks Revin.
Mick Hone in Sydney is showing 10 exhaust valves in stock - give them a go, they provide a great service.
Regards
Muddy
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Nice gold too - what colour is that?
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Bloody fantastic. That Racefit system looks awesome.
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This is the gpwerks that I was referring to.
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Handling woes GSX750 ET
in Air Cooled
Posted
Ride height is not the only bit of geometry in play here. In my application the fork length from the top of the triple to the axle was identical, but it wanted to tuck in. Lowering the forks in the triples by about 15 mm fixed everything - so much more confidence.