Muddy

Very handy, thanks for resurrecting.

Nah, been away. I've managed to get a genuine Suzuki rear seat cowl cover, so am still in 2 minds what to do. I am favouring leaving the genuine parts in place and just replacing the rear seat with the cowl.

Thanks so much for this. This does help immensely. It does show that I can keep the header tank, but do need to consider moving the ECU and starter relay. I greatly appreciate the effort you went to in sharing this. Regards Muddy

Thanks Gents, that has encouraged me. I'll give it another go. Most appreciated.

Thanks TJS, that helps a lot. I can see you seem to have removed the rear fender (mudguard) as well. Looks like the radiator header tank is still in place. Have you left the ECU and starter relay in place under the right hand side? Here in Aus, the local law enforcement do not like the rear fender being removed so I may have to doctor something up for first registration purposes then remove later. I'll also need to have rear indicators fitted somewhere. I reckon I can live with the rear black sub-frame (plate holder) removed - a new rear shock will not have the remote reservoir/adjuster either. However I'm keen to leave the header tank, ECU and starter relay in place. Thanks heaps.

Yes, I'm definitely getting to understand the airtech stuff is not plug and play - I wish I had know that before purchasing. The description on the item doesn't mention that a lot of stuff needs relocating to make it fit. At this stage I'm favouring not fitting the solo-seat rear fairing and rather see what I can do in making a rear cowl to fit in place of the rear seat. Thanks to all for your input.

Good suggestions, thanks. I guess I just have to weigh up the desire to relocate this gear vs fitting the solo seat fairing.

Thanks for the tip. I did try this approach, but without luck.

Thanks for the suggestions and advice. I spent another couple of hours yesterday trying to get the solo-seat rear cowl to fit. I progressively removed bike parts in an attempt to try and get it to fit. In the end I abandoned it, I just had to remove too much to get it on the bike. I'd then have to try and find a new home for the removed bits. Given that this is to remain a road bike, it really is not practical for me to try and relocate a lot of running gear. I can't imagine being broken down on the side of the road somewhere and trying to remove the fairing, plus bits and pieces to access parts of the bike. Despite another request, no response from the solo seat manufacturer yet. Seems like I'll need to try and find a standard Suzuki rear seat replacement cowl (maybe unobtianium).

G'day I was looking for some advice or previous experience with fitting a one-piece Airtech solo seat fairing (GSXR64) to a '92 GSXR 750 WN. I imported the solo seat fairing from the USA as we get cheaper registration here in Australia for single seat bikes. However I'm dammed if I can get it to fit in place. Being a one-piece construction it appears to need to be "stretched" and open up over the frame including the ignition unit and radiator header tank. I'm sure it is going to crack and break if I keep pushing it. I just can't figure out how to fit it. I tried to remove the ignition unit and header tank before fitting the solo seat fairing, but still no luck and I'll never get them secured again with the fairing in place. I've contacted Airtech in the USA, but no response as yet. https://www.airtech-streamlining.com/suzuki-fairings-seats-fenders-parts/GSXR7501993-95.htm Any help is greatly appreciated.

There is also an excellent article on this site in the vault by Jelly titled "Journey to the center of Mikuni’s BST38SS carbs" Also try this one: https://www.litetek.co/Guide_MikuniBDST_Rebuild.html

Try this. I reckon you'll be 90% there just by replacing the pods with the airbox.

Just ordered one of these for my '92 750 WN.

Wow, that is wild!

I've got a couple of ignitech, but not on OSSs. I love 'em and as said they are cheap, dependable, tuneable and good customer service. Jus make sure you do what the manual says in relation to total spark plug load resistance.

That is what happened to me.

Wow, that looks very nice indeed.

Isn't Solex a carb manufacturer?

I have a mate who did exactly this on a GS850 shaftie. The bike had been sitting for a long time and was sold to him as "not running with no spark". After checking, he had to replace coils, plug leads, plug caps and igniter. He bough the evilbay chinese coils, leads caps set plus a genuine igniter. After fitting all this, the spark fired straight up and the bike ran fine. He is in the middle of a rebuild on the bike so has been unable to check the operation of the motor under load or reliability yet.

That is very nice! Great job.

Not sure about this model specifically, but aren't there just one (or two) fuel inlet hoses - both on the fuel rail - and a vacuum hose? If there are two fuel hoses, they tee together and along with vacuum hose go to petcock on fuel tank. I doubt this is the problem if you've got sustained fuel supply. Does the engine continue to run after rising to higher revs? The diaphragms are supposedly pretty notorious to seat correctly. Along with the intake rubbers to the head not being sealed correctly could be the source of your issue.

I used AN8 fittings and hose on my 1100 Kat, using the theory presented by others, "Bigger is better - without being oversized."

GSX1100dreamn on here has a nice Kat with injection - he has a fair bit or experience with this.

I've got 2 Ignitech TCIP4s on other Italian L-twin bikes and could not recommend them highly enough. Just watch that you use the correct matched coils (or stock) and don't have too many resistive elements in the plug leads, caps etc. Both Ignitech units were purchased direct from Ignitech - they were helpful and responsive. Fully programable timing and rev limiter if needed. The only negative I find is the old serial cable connector - make sure you order with the Ignitech. I would definitely go this way again with my Kat if/when needed.

Yep, experienced exactly the same thing just after a rebuild. Replaced the orings and used some sealant on them and all looks OK now.