scott-s

I have a 1980 GS550E and I'm transplanting late model GSX750F engine, suspension, etc., into it. That left me with the stock GS550 engine, suspension, wheels, etc. OK, I'll get online and find a titled frame and build a bike from the leftovers! Searched Eblag for a while, being careful to not get an L frame. I knew the rear tank mounts were different, the seat frame area was different, etc. I came across a "1980 GS550E frame" and it appeared to have the correct rear tank mount in the pics. Bought it and, later on, when trying to fit a tank, noticed that something wasn't right. At first, I thought I was sent a 750 tank by mistake. But the more I look at it, I notice that the tank mounting points are different. Both frames have a "GS550E-XXXXX" VIN number, with matching titles. Both are 1980 build dates. Look at the pics below. What do I have and what is the correct tank for the "cafe" frame? Forward mount of the standard 550E frame. I bought this as a complete bike with bodywork, etc. Forward mount of the Eblag "cafe" frame. The nipples for the tank grommets are higher and further back. Rear tank mount of the "stock" frame. Rear tank mount of the Eblag frame. See how it sits higher and further forward? Overall comparison of the two. Another pic of the forward tank mounts The coil mounts are different, too.

Yes, in the States. I also have the '00 engine with the TPS, but I'll be eliminating that and using the earlier '95 BST-36 carbs. Don't know if that TPS stuff matters when doing the advancer thing. I've been told to unplug it and forget it.

This is what I've found about the D.I.Y. method, as well as some pics online. Save the $50-60 USD and do it myself? Adjustable Ignition AdvancerTo make your own ignition advancer is easy and it's FREE.Step 1: Remove the lower fairing and front/right engine cover.Step 2: Remove the rotor by removing the bolt in the center with a 6mm hexagon wrench.Step 3: Remove the 3 screws holding the ignition plate and loosen the plate.Step 4: Enlarge the bolt holes in clockwise direction.Step 5: Reinstall the plate and rotor (rotor bolt torque 25-34Nm 18-25.5lbft).Step 6: Twist the plate in counterclockwise direction and tighten the 3 screws.Step 7: Reinstall the engine cover and fairing.Step 8: Go for a testride.So, how much should you enlarge the holes and twist the plate? Well the advance should be 3-5° and 1° is almost exactly 1mm on the edge of the plate. So enlarge the holes about 5mm. The best way to find the optimum setting is to dynotest the bike and try different settings. The advance units you can by have usually a fixed setting of 5°. Be weary carefully not to over do it and listen for engine "pre detonation" which usually occurs at low RPM, high gear and high load. On an otherwise low tuned engine you could expect about 1-2 Hp in the midrange.

My GSX750F is the U.S. model and has, to my understanding, the 4 degree advance. Been reading a little about the ignition advancers and was wondering if you all thought it was worth it? Factory Pro seems to be NLA (unless someone knows a source). Theirs is 3 degrees, if I can find one. Holeshot has one for the Bandit 600/1200 and I'm told that the Teapot uses the same advancer. Is that true? (Also, if you look in the LH column, they list the Katana 600/750 ...U.S. site, so sorry for using the K word wrongly...but they do NOT list an advancer for it). http://www.holeshot.com/suzuki/bandit/600-1200/products/timing-advancer Thoughts and other sources? I've also read about elongating the holes and doing it yourself, but not knowing exactly what I have makes me uncomfortable.

I'll pull a carb top/slide today and confirm that my carbs do (or do not) have adjustable needles. If so, and I already have a bunch of washers for making custom adjustments, would I be better off just getting a few jets and giving it what it needs? Or is the DynoJet ket the "easy button"?

Thanks guys. I appreciate the replies. I sent DynoJet an email and am awaiting a response. Online, the kit (3130) is often listed as "Stage 1 and 3". Does that mean it comes with the components to do both stages, or do I need to specify? I already have the '95 carbs. I got a good deal on them and they've been fully rebuilt to stock specs by my buddy Rick at Oldskoolcarbs. He's offered to help with supplying jets when I get to that point. I haven't yet pulled a slide myself. Do the '95 carbs come with grooves for the needle clip? I actually have some small washers for minor adjustments leftover from another project.

Is it 5/8" (16mm)? **EDIT** It's 14mm. I dug out the old master cylinder and found the stamp on it. It's actually not in bad shape. I think I may have Bern thinking about the one from the '80 GS550. Still, if you know of a nicer/better/more modern replacement, I'm all ears. Can you even get a radial master cylinder in 14mm? Would a 16mm radial work? I'm a little confused about the radial....they often mention bore size and ratio. What do they mean by ratio?

I'm still a ways off on this project, but it's never too early to start gathering parts and information. The engine is from a '00 GSX750F Teapot. I picked up some BST 36 carbs from a '95 750 because I'm told they work better with pods. This combo is going in a 1980 GS550E frame, so I'll be forced to run the dual K&N filters (RU-2922). I have a Yoshimura muffler on the stock header (unless and until I can find a better header). I'm well aware that dyno time will be needed. I'm looking for more of a baseline to start with and jets to have on hand for the dyno runs. I've been told that a Dyna Stage 3 jet kit oughta be pretty close. I've also heard that just going up 15-20% on the mains might do it. Can you give me some suggestions for a good baseline, knowing that I'll fine tune it on the dyno? '95 GSX750F carbs, BST-36, stock jets at the moment. K&N RU-2922 filters Yoshimura slip on

I can't seem to find this info anywhere. 2000 GSX750F Teapot. What size is the front master cylinder? I'll probably have to replace mine and I'm looking at new aftermarket but don't know the size. OR...good used from another bike. What are some good master cylinders from other bikes that will work that I should be on the lookout for? Stock calipers and rotors, braided lines. EBC pads.

96-99 was water cooled? I'm still trying to learn about all the running changes....man, this Suzuki interchange stuff can get confusing.

Thoughts on how well this would fit/work with my '00 GSX-F engine/sump? https://www.Eblag.com/itm/96-99-Suzuki-gsxr750-Exhaust-Pipe-Header-Stainless-Gsxr-/372266069768

Getting there (sorry for veering off topic).

Just read that whole thread. You actually helped shed some insight into swingarm and wheel/tire fitment for me. Currently working on getting the GSX750F swingarm into a GS550 frame and converting to dual shocks.

I'm not running across too many header systems for the '00 GSX-F. I know the 600 and 750 used the same head. I think the Bandit would fit but the collector underneath is way different and I'm not sure where it routes the pipe. Would like to know more about which GSX-R headers might work.

Other than the weight savings, is there much to be gained performance wise other than on the top end? I'm transplanting this engine into a GS550, so I'll be nearly doubling the horsepower anyway. And I like mud range. Just save my money and keep the stock collector?

The Yoshimura exhaust comes with the mid pipe. It's not just a slip on. But I needed a muffler anyway and the Yoshi was priced right, so....

The engine in question is a 2000 GSX750F Teapot. It's going in an older frame so I'll be running dual K&N pods on '95 GSX-F carbs (and jetting it. I'll be asking advice on that later). I currently have the stock header and a Yoshimura pipe. How much difference does an aftermarket head pipe make? And I'm still getting conflicting info on whether the GSX-R header (of similar years) will fit the F bike. I believe something about the oil sump was mentioned? And some of the headers I've seen online don't seem to give access to the oil filter. I guess what I'm asking is, if I'm not after ultimate horsepower, and mid-range is good for me, is it worth trying to find a good or different header for the Yoshi pipe?

Damn, that's sweet.

It's a steel Teapot 750 swingarm. I'll be welding on the lower clevis mounts. We didn't get the Impulse 400 here, either.

I've recently become aware of the Inazuma, a model we didn't get here in the States. I'm converting a GSX750F swinger to dual shocks. It might be helpful to have some measurements from the Inazuma. Can anyone "triangulate" the measurements for Me? Pivot center to lower shock mount center length. Pivot to upper shock mount length. Upper shock mount to lower shock mount. TIA.

Thanks, all. I wasn't aware he was a trader here and when I googled it I got a go kart company. Probably because I'm in the US.

Old post...but who is this Lucky 7? I'd love to find some prefabbed shock mounts.

Looks like the bearing styles are different on the K3. I'm 99% sure the 600 top will work for what I want to do and is cheap.

It looks like the GSX 600 version of the same years (98-06) uses the same lower triple and has a nice clean top bridge that can be drilled for risers. But, when I look at parts fiche, it shows a K3 model and a Model W/X/Y/K1/K2 for both the 600 and the 750. It lists a different upper and lower triple part number for both. What's the difference and how do I determine what lower triple I have? Mine is a 2000 GSX750F (We call it that K word here in the States).

I have a 2000 GSX750F donor bike for my hybrid project. I want to use the entire front end. The -F top triple is fugly as hell and full of holes. Mine is slightly warped on one side from a crash at some point, too. No problem...the Bandit 600 uses 41mm forks. I'll just pick up a Bandit triple. Except that the Bandit 600 triple is slightly wider than the GSX. I can make a new fender bracket/fork brace, but the GSX axle will be too short. Bandit axles are cheap, but they thread into the fork lower. The GSX uses a nut on the end of the axle. Dang it. What options do I have for fitting a top bridge that will accept forks? At this point, it would probably be best to keep the GSX lower triple and correct fork/axle spacing. Does anyone have a solution for a cleaner top triple that doesn't include high buck CNC stuff? GSX top Bandit top