scott-s

The Haynes manual I have also mentions using sealant in the groove in the valve cover and under the 4 half moons. Someone used it there before, but not excessively. I didn't see any on the head mating surface.

Working on fitting a 2000 GSX750-F engine into a 1980 GS550E frame. Going on recommendations here, I picked up a set of '95 BST-36 carbs and had them professionally rebuilt to stock specs. I have a Dyno Jet Stage 3 kit that I got for a good price but have since seen all the differing opinions on DJ. luckily, I have NOT installed it yet, so nothing is drilled out, etc. I ended up using BST-36 carbs , Bandit 1200 mainfolds and rubber velocity stacks and RamAir filters. I'm told this should be easier to tune than the stock carbs. I slotted the timing advancer so I can play with that. I have the stock header and a Yoshimura RS-3 pipe/muffler. Before I go about installing the dynoJet kit, should I just try shimming the needles and getting a few sizes of main jets to try? I know I have a bit of a bastard combo here. I just want to try to make it run best I can and would like to avoid any known pitfalls if possible.

Engine is from a '00 GSX750-F Teapot. I have it out and on the lift. No better time to check/adjust valve clearances while I have easy access. Watching some videos online and I see mention of replacing a bunch of O-rings and gaskets. The O-rings around the valve cover bolts, oil feed line, the "mickey mouse" gaskets on the underside, etc. How often are the changed? Is it truly necessary to do it every time? If they're supple and not torn, can they be re-used? Also, it's suggested to use RTV around the valve cover gasket (which I DO have new). Any particular brand/kind? I'm in the US, so keep that in mind when making brand recommendations.

The 1100 cans got sold but I may have found some GSXR750 cams. So, back to the meat of the question: if the price is right is it worth doing? I've heard that it can actually make tuning the carbs with RamAir filters easier. Something about the lazy Teapot cams and pods not playing well together but the lumpier GSXR cams giving a better "signal " or something?

So you think they should? The '91 1100? With my combo listed about, is it worth my time and 60 bucks? Would I gain anything, other than a tuning headache?

Hope this is OK. Here's where I found the information about the GSXR 750 cams: https://katriders.com/forum/service-department/katana-how-to-s-faq-s/26784-installing-gsxr-cams-in-a-katana?t=75466

Is it OK to link to other sites? I can show you where I found the information and maybe you guys can shed some light on whether or not I'm looking for the correct parts.

They're from a '91 1100, commonly referred to by the "K" word over here in the states. It's my understanding that they're basically the same names that were in the early GSXR 750, and those cams are the "hotter" cams for the Teapot 750. Just hoping for some clarification. I can install and time them myself, so if they're worth doing for ~$60, I'd give them a try.

Well, that's why I always try to refer to my 2000 as either a Teapot or GSX750F. Was the '91 1100 uh, whatever it's called, referred to as something else? Should I refer to it as a teapot, too? Sorry, I'm a Yank and I just don't know all the proper English slang terms. Anyway, I edited the title and post. But....what about those cams?

Since the old school '86-90 GSXR cams seem so hard to find these days, I've found a set of '91 Katana (Teapot? What the hell am I supposed to call this thing?) 1100 cams for pretty cheap. I can get them for $50 o 60 U.S. It's my understanding that the '91 1100 IN and EX cams are the same as the 88-89 GSXR 750 IN cam and 1988 GSXR 750 EX cam. It looks like the 1100 cams would give me an extra ~1.2mm of lift on both the IN and EX. Nor sure about the duration. I will be running stock Teapot head and valves, compression ratio, etc. I have the stock 750 header and a Yoshimura pipe/muffler. I have the BST-36 carbs, a DynoJet stage 3 kit, RamAir filters over stock rubber velocity stacks. I also plan on slotting the timing plate to advance the timing. Are the '91 1100 cams the ones I want for a '00 Teapot 750? Is it worth my time and ~$60 to do it, with the above mods? I've read that tuning the carbs will be easier with the hotter cams.

First, I want to apologize for the pics. My phone sucks and the light in my garage tends to wash it out. It's nearly impossible to get good pics in there. It looks like I used a potato instead of a camera! I put the wheels back on the bike and set it down on it's on weight. The jack is just keeping the bike from tipping over, not lifting it at all. The shocks are 14" and set on the medium setting. I *still* feel like we could have laid down the shocks a bit more but, as you can see, the shock and swingarm angle aren't as bad as when it was on the center stand/lift and not rear wheel in. This is workable. And if it just handles too poorly or annoys me too much, I think it would be easier to go with some 13" shocks and maybe even have the chain adjuster slots machined longer and the end of the swingarm cut off a like amount. That would shorten the wheel base, lower the stance and lessen the swing arm angle. All without having to start from scratch.

Can't find a SteveA in a members search. The more I look at my converted Teapot 750 swingarm, the more I'm not happy with it. It's just awful long and I'm not sure the shock angle is correct. Those swingers are cheap, so I guess I could get another and start over. I'd love to find an Inazuma 750 swingarm, but they're like hen's teeth here in the states. The GS1100E swingarm would require new shocks and relocating the caliper hanger. Maybe a B12 swingarm and the conversion bits are a better bet?

Would it work? The GS1100E swingarm is pretty much a bolt on for my 1980 GS550E frame. I have a 4.5" Teapot rear wheel and have spent a bit of time already getting chain alignment sorted, etc. We had to notch the inner frame slightly and go to a 520 chain. I'm sure I could come up with the right spacers to center the Teapot wheel in the GS1100E swingarm, but would that screw up my alignment? Is the 1100 arm even wide enough for a 4.5" wheel and a 150/70-17 tire? The Teapot arm I've converted is awful long. I'd be very interested in the aluminum GS1100E swinger if it didn't mean starting over again on chassis alignment. And if the wheel fits, of course.

I have a set of B12 stacks and clamps on the way, as well as some RamAir MS-006 filters. I'll let you know how it all fits.

Mk1 is the '97-00 B1200?

Also...I found that '97-00 Bandit 1200 and '91-93 GSX1100G manifolds fit the BST-36 carbs. Is it safe to assume that the rubber stacks for those models fit the BST-36 carbs? If so, that opens up a lot of models for stacks: https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/partsearch/suzuki

I did LOTS of searching and reading here and on the 'web today. I think I want to try the RamAir MS-006 filters on my BST-36 carbs. The mouths of the carbs have a slightly oval shape. The rubber intake boots from my '00 air box won't quite fit. It looks like the '89-97 GSX600F and GSX750F all used the same boots/stacks. There are 4 different part numbers, presumably because they're shaped slightly different to fit the inside of the air box. What other models used the BST-36 carbs? Would I benefit from getting, say, two sets of the inner boots? To keep them all the same length?

Some info/leads I was given: Look for a part number with "40C0" in it. These are for 36mm carbs on Non-Dot heads. 13110-40C0 13120-40C0 13130-40C0 13140-40C0 I was told that .90-92 GSXR-750 or 1100 would work, '89-92 GSXR-1100, and maybe the '91-95(ish) GSX1100G shafty bike. When I look up those part #'s on the fiche, it shows this: Assemblies where 13110-40C00 is used 1989 GSX-R1100 - CYLINDER HEAD 1990 GSX-R1100 - CYLINDER HEAD 1991 GSX-R1100 - CYLINDER HEAD 1991 GSX1100G - CYLINDER HEAD 1992 GSX-R1100 - CYLINDER HEAD 1992 GSX1100G - CYLINDER HEAD 1993 GSX1100G - CYLINDER HEAD 1997 Bandit (GSF1200S) - CYLINDER HEAD 1998 Bandit (GSF1200S) - CYLINDER HEAD 1999 Bandit (GSF1200S) - CYLINDER HEAD 2000 Bandit (GSF1200S) - CYLINDER HEAD Does that sound correct? Look for those numbers/models to fit the carbs I have to my '00 head?

Stick with me here.... Putting a '00 Teapoy GSX750F in a 1980 GS550 frame. Picked up some '95 GSX750F carbs because they're supposed to play better with pods/jets. Tried to test fit the carbs today to check for tank/petcock clearance. There's a HUGE mismatch between the manifolds that came with the carbs and the head. The stock '00 manifolds don't quite seat completely on the carbs. They'd probably be OK, but they're a good bit taller. That means the filters now foul the frame. I looked up the numbers on the "95" manifolds and they cross reference to '89-90 GSXR 750 and '97 GSX750....not what I was sold...... It looks like I need '89-97 GSX750F manifolds. I looked up a few sets on Eblag, but the numbers that I can read don't quite cross reference. And some show carb balance pipe nipples. I've already had the '95 carbs professionally rebuilt and bought a jet kit for them. What manifolds do I need to make them fit the '00 head?

Are those years listed the only cam swap options for a '00 GSX750F? Any other years/models I can look for? Pickings seem to be slim for those models I listed above.

Nevermind....mis-read your reply.

Yes, the article I read says to use the cam sprockets from the F engine. Will the '00 cams work, too?

Something else I saw in that write up has me scratching my head, too. I think it's just poor sentence structure, but give me a sanity check here... They wrote: "Take the cam caps off put the IN and EX GSXR cams were the EX and IN Katana cams went.". They're not swapping the cams IN to EX and vice-versa, are they? That doesn't make sense to me, but.... I'm a noob to this model and I don't know.

I've been reading about using the -R cams in the -F motors for a little more power. I've also been told (though I'm not sure I am completely on board with this one...) that the -R cams will help the CV carbs function better with pods. I'm working on a custom project and will HAVE to use pods. I'm OK with jetting, dyno tuning, etc. I like that the -F cams give mid-range and torque. I wouldn't go with the -R cams just for bragging rights, but if there's a meaningful difference in power and tuning, I think it's something I can do for around $100. Here's some information I've found. Please correct me if it's wrong or if there are other options, too. Suzuki Katana 600 92-97 - GSXR 750 91-92Suzuki Katana 600 88-91, 98+ - GSXR 750 88-90 (86-87 can be used, but the lobes have a smaller lift duration)Suzuki Katana 750 (all years) - GSXR 750 88-90 (86-87 can be used, but the lobes have a smaller lift duration) Since my engine is a '00 750F, I'd be interested in the '86-90 GSX-R 750 cams. That source also says that the '88-93 1100 cams are the same as the '88-89 GSXR-750 IN and '88 GSXR-750 EX cam. I'll have the valve cover off son anyway for an adjustment and tune up. If I can find a set of cams for around $100, would you slap them in while you're in there?

Someone said that by '80 the L bikes used a 550E VIN number. Looks like I have an L frame after all.....crap. I think I can make it work. The rear has already been hacked off for a cafe seat and an electronics tray installed. It's gonna be a custom anyway.