dago
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Posts posted by dago
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You need to use a 17 or 18 tooth front sprocket so it's the same diameter as the old sprocket that way it'll clear the cases and won't risk sawing through the swingarm, then change the rear to match the original gear poss about 48t
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Cheers sound familiar
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Does anyone know the thread size for an EFE 1100 oil temp sender as I don't have thread gauges cheers
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Sounds like it needs a bigger main jet in the carbs, you need to know what size is in there now it might never had been jetted for the exhaust or might need bigger now as more free flowing. Is it running std airbox & filter?
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Just looking for an easy way as have no garage, have to do it on the road don't won't to leave it on blocks too long
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Am I right in thinking that I could just undo the damper bolt at the bottom and remove the seal clips I could just pull the lower leg off to change the seals without all the faf of dismantling the lot, usually run a seal mate cleaning thing round but not worked this time cheers
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Have you checked the starter button? Might be shorting make the solenoid click on & off , then change the solenoid as these are easiest and cheapest things to try gisrt
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Both the 17 & 18 cleared the swingarm. It was 118 links long but that's on the Harris
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You need more teeth on the front sprocket to stop it eating into the swing arm, and more teeth on the back to keep the ratio , I'm running 18/48 on my EFE engined Harris so can't help with the link count you can go 17 on the front but I found the revs a bit high when motorway cruising
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Check for air leaks on the rubbers
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Try these http://www.allensperformance.co.uk might be best to ring them
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Also seen on Eblag ledar air corrector kit from grumpy 1260
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Think grumpy 1260 was doing them a while back might still have some what thread size is it and is there a size stamped on there somewhere?
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Air corrector jet try allens
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Have you tried cleaning the connection?
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Re tap it as your going to have to drill and tap it any way for a helicoil or timesert depending on availability of right size sump plug
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They were all found, didn't quite punch through the outer bit, sort of like a hanging chad. Didn't look like anything from there had it apart enough time hence the over £200 on compete new after a few second hand ones and replacement rollers ect. Cheers for the reply though
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i thought start clutch but they're hollow and were all accounted for, have searched alpha sport diagrams & pics in manual and on line i can't find anything similar,could have been in there age as bought engine second hand and recently found it way to sump or dropped in there during top end rebuild 10 yrs ago, sump last off 3 yrs ago when i fitted complete new starter clutch, also fitted lockup clutch a couple of years ago and every thing was fine then, just going to ride it and try not to worry cheers for the replies keep the suggestions coming
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The booble bit on the top is too small for that, but cheers for the suggestion keep them coming, don't won't to strip it down as too cold out & it's used daily
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I did mean made of steel, been through the manual, and alpha sports but can't find anything that resembles it
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the end of it looks like it sheared off something, though hard to tell as well chewed, it looks like it used to be square? it's solid apart from what looks like a small oil way through it. no spring. why do they make the sump filter screen non removeable pain to clean properly
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try these , i'm thinking gear shifter but can't find any thing in my spares that look the same, the hole goes right through, hard to say what shape it was. Gears shifting ok, no jumping out of gear
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Will try tomorrow cheers
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Found this in my EFE sump it's magnetic bike runs ok no strange noises
GSX750ES REVS SUPER HIGH AVTER INSTALLING CARBS
in Air Cooled
Posted · Edited by dago
You need to redo the compression test with a warm engine and the throttle wide open or you'll get a false reading, valves clearance won't affect tickover revs but might affect comp test, it in the carbs some where , slide wear, or emulsion tube, or needle wear ? Good luck