SBK1000
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Posts posted by SBK1000
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If the wheels are a very light weight I may try to salvage them, otherwise I would try selling them.
I have a set of Dymag Magnesium wheels and I was told they would fit my GSXR1000. Well, they did not fit. I am working on making them fit, but it has been months trying to get custom spacers done and getting a new carrier from the UK is as expensive as the wheels cost me. I am knees deep now, so I may as well keep going...Keep posting pictures and asking questions. We'll keep on offering different points of view and opinionated thoughts...
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15 hours ago, MeanBean49 said:
Nice swingarms those, put one in my HUC. Only ball ache is sorting the 10mm difference in sprocket offset, wheel/sprocket carrier machining, reversed sprocket, spacer behind front sprocket..... ace fun
http://shop.pbisprockets.com/product.sc?productId=465
I can help you move the rear sprocket in or out as needed...
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Hayabusas are fat... GSXR1000 are lean sexy machines... LOL
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Are you thinking of doing a swing arm swap???
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A cush drive is a part of a motorcycle or scooter drive-train that is designed to reduce stress from engine torque damaging other components during gear or throttle changes. A common design used by almost all street motorcycles, it has three major pieces: the wheel, the sprocket assembly, and the rubber damper.
I heard that no cush drive WAS used on drag strip bikes to get a direct power to the ground. But they stop using it as the advantage was not worth the damage.
Does the hub bolt on to the spokes? maybe you can remove them and have a machine shop make a new hub with a cush drive something off another motorcycle maybe. Look how big the cush rubbers are off a stock 1100... The second picture is the cush drive of aftermarket Dymag wheels... The allen bolts are the studs for the sprocket carrier and the part of the cush drive. The rubbers have a metal center and about 3/8" of rubber. You would need a hub with enough metal to take those rubbers.
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I would not run them without cush drive....
Post a picture of the hub where the sprocket mounts to.
You may need to make a hub with a bearing, a spacer between bearings, and another spacer to the swing arm... -
I was thinking shiny... These are going to a matte black motor in a matte black frame... With blue titanium headers...
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I was also able to mount the front 2008 GSXR1000 front wheel to the 1989 GSXR1100 forks...
The wheel is center on the forks, axle torqued down, calipers torqued down... Wheel spins.
Unfortunately, you lose the speedometer pick up...
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Welcome! I am new my self. Guys are very helpful here.
Seems you like your Cafe and Streetfighters too... Post some pictures of your stable starting with your Slabby!This is the inspiration for my Slingshot project...
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16 hours ago, FJD said:
Well - i would suggest getting it running, and the check valve clearances again, as it´s likely rust on the valve seats that prevent the valves from sealing correct.
Have seen that many times - so always get the engine running first to clear of rusty valve seats (which will show close valve clearances), and THEN adjust tappets, not vice versa
1Right now, the engine is off the bike and the head is off the engine...
I do not see a problem with the pistons, other than quite a bit carbon deposits, or the cylinders, they still have a good honing pattern. I figure since the heads are off I may as well bump up the cc and compression...
And, I was thinking of refreshing up the head. Doing what I can to improve flow. -
On my 2007 GSXR1000 I use a Yamaha R6 throttle tube... 2006 R6 1/6 turn with a 40.5 mm cam - Part number: 2CO-26240-00 or 2CO-2624-0000
I was curious to see if I can use an R6 throttle tube on the GSXR1100 of if there are better short throw throttle options???
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6 hours ago, Dezza said:
Do you have a 750 DOT head that you may not need? If so I would be interested in buying it if it comes complete.
I have found some available... Do not own one yet.
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6 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Depends what 'limited budget' is could be £500 or £5000 and what you want as an end result?
For most applications, std. rods - IF NOT OVER REV'D - will be fine to 200 odd hp. Oil flow problems are generally what kills rods - keep it flowing, with pressure and cool it well!
Find someone respected for these heads to do the work - the head work must respect what else is being done - bore, cams, carbs, exhaust etc. If its more a road bike than track tool then try and keep full length valve guides - shorter guides good for flow but poor longevity. Don't get ports carved out bigger, just smooth them with improved short turn flow, 30/26 valves will help but added cost, stg 1 or 2 cams will add to the party sometimes more than headwork!
I'd go with JE or Wosner pistons - Wiseco tend to use up rings quickly IMO. Do not use a DOT head with kit pistons as CR will be through the roof! Busa pistons do not make good NA pistons although could work with a DOT head. The 'M' pattern head is actually the best for flow but cam choices are limited - the shim spitting is only a problem on high rpm motors. My turbo motor still has shims - i'm not worried!
6I got my 89 as a 22K mile non-running bike that sat for many years. The engine turned over with a charged battery. A compression test was performed and there was low compression. A leak down test was performed and it the intake valves seems to be the problem.
Limited budget to me means I do not have all the money up front... I will be buying parts as I can. I am NOT looking to build a Race Winning engine. Having said that the head is off. I figure may as well refresh the whole top end with good parts to get better performance while maintaining some reliability. A friend of mine built a 2mm over SV650... And the engine grenade from rod failure after 30 minutes of use on his second session of Track Day. That was my concern for getting better and expensive rods.
I will look into the cost of 30mm / 26 mm valves. Thanks. Also, I have a set of BST38SS carburetors, and I was going to use 2004 GSXR1000 titanium headers with a Racefit slip on. -
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Rear sprocket carrier needs to be machined and also need an offset front sprocket. I'm running a 520 chain and found that a 2002 Gurls blouse XR650R works well
Curious to see what numbers you got to machine your rear sprocket carrier down... My engine is off the bike to measure it right now, but I can move the sprocket mounting surface up to 5 mm in towards the center of the wheel
And, what do you mean a 2002 Girls Blouse XR650R works well? -
This is my first attempt to engine building, I want to do it right, with a limited budget... So it is Ok if it takes time. I plan to ride the bike a little hard for track days...
1.- Will the stock rods be strong enough or should I look into stronger rods?
2.- What are the suggested services I should consider doing to the head? ...Porting and a valve job? ...I hear the 89 GSXR1100 had the best stock cams. Am I overlooking or missing anything for the head services?
3.- Also, if I am going with 1216 pistons, should I consider also using a dot 750 head?
4.- Any other things I should look into while the motor is off the bike?
Thanks for your input. Luis -
I am just going to leave these right here....
If my math is right that GSXR1000 6.00" rear wheel is 7 lbs lighter than stock GSXR1100 rear wheel.
Imagine how much lighter it would be if I polish that GSXR1000 rear wheel!!!! LOL
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I am working on a kit to mount a 2005-08 GSXR1000 6.00" rear wheel to the stock GSXR1100 swing arm...
On my 1989 GSXR1100 I am mounting a 2008 GSXR1000 swing arm. I am going to use the 2008 GSXR1000 linkage and shock mount location... This is a work in progress. Still working on the swing arm pivot spacers.
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Fitting bandit wheels to slingshot or vice versa. straight fit?
in Oil Cooled
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That is why I am working on a conversion kit for late model GSXR wheels... They are light weight, relatively cheap, and commonly available.
I think I have everything to fit GSXR 600 / 750 and/or GSXR1000 wheels on stock Slingshot forks / swingarm...