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SBK1000

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Everything posted by SBK1000

  1. I had these numbers written down somewhere... I am swapping parts and I am coming up short!
  2. For the rear a 2008 + Hayabysa shock may be a good shock for you depending on lenght etc. It is 14.5 kg/mm spring rate...
  3. No. That 0.629 kg/mm is what the stock spring rates are for the Katuna... For a 180 lbs rider, Racetech suggest and 0.95 kg/mm fork spring rate. So if you are picking out a front end a 2005 to 2006 GSXR1000 would be perfect. For the rear, a shock with a 16.2 kg/mm spring rate...
  4. The 07-08 GSXR1000 has a 4-5mm fuel line... under 42 psi you can get a lot of flow... But I do hear some Bandits have a real drinking problem...
  5. You can view spring rates at www.racetech.com Go to there is says search spring rates... Select your Road bike, then select your bike and year. Then enter your weight. I always pick racing because why spend the money if you do not plan to haul ass. Those suggestions, front and back should be your guideline. This is what I am working on.... The swingarm is a real pain...
  6. For the rear, Swapping swing arms is a pain and you have to make custom parts to make them fit... It is possible but time-consuming and pricey to do them right... I would suggest fitting a GSXR rear wheel on the Katuna axle. And getting a 10mm longer shock than stock from a bike based again, on spring rate.This would raise the rear end a little and give you lighter, more agile steering. It will increase traction on the rear end. A newer shock with low miles is better. Getting a shock from a 10 year old bike will probably need service.
  7. You can get a complete front end of a late model GSXR... You get suspension and brakes. To choose a year look up the suggested spring rates for your Katuna and your weight for your riding skill level. then match that to the appropriate GSXR front end year and model. For example: 06-09 GSXR600 come with 0.90 kg/mm front ends... 05 06 GSXR1000 come with 0.95 kg/mm front ends... 07 08 GSXR1000 come with 0.976 kg/mm front ends... 06 09 GSXR750 come with 1.00 kg/mm front ends...
  8. 1990 GSXR1100 is 12-1/2" inches or 318 mm
  9. You can machine the hub like my picture above... The limiting factor is the sprocket touching the wheel. There is one other thing that you can do... But it gets the chain really close to the tire... Similar to what NO CLASS said before.
  10. Stacking the sprockets like that, you may have clearance issues with the tire. it would have to be done very precisely to avoid hop or side movement. It's NOT a bad idea. but you have to do it regularly and it will not be cheap. Moving the sprocket in 5mm by machining the sprocket carrier gives you about 1/4" clearance with a 520 chain. You can go in a 1-2 mm more but it will require trimming the wheel hub and thinning the crush drive... This you do once unless you mess up your wheel...
  11. I do not know much about these engines, and I am just thinking out loud... If the 750 dot heads fit on the 1100 cylinders, Is it possible to swap 1100 cylinders and pistons on a 750 bottom end???
  12. The only thing I was not able to check out, (because I did not have a chain on the 1100 when I got it.) is to measure the chain to frame distance... However, the GSXR1000 chain guide fits at about the same location as it does on the GSXR1100... I am still waiting on my high carbon steel GSXR1100 inner bearings spacers from my machine shop. Any chance you can align the rear axle equally, and take a rear view picture of your rear sprocket inside, as level as possible where maybe you can see the front sprocket? Does that make sense???
  13. That is true... So for those that enjoy taking care of their machine, this is a good option. Here is one of the oil filter reviews I have read... https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html
  14. Have you read technical reviews on oil filters? A lot of interesting information... They open up the oil filters and examine how they are put together. They compare filter medium element including the surface area. They inspect how the filter medium is secured in place. they test the bypass operation and the anti drain back valve... All in all some oil filters are better than others. If I was riding my bike like I drive my car, then maybe I would consider a cheap brand... But even then, I get premium filters and premium fluids for all my vehicles. I consider That I ride in severe conditions because I ride in desert high temperatures and there is dust everywhere. Besides that, I ride my bikes a bit hard... To me, It does not cost much more to buy the best products available. Why buy the cheapest???
  15. It' a few dollars to be able to use much better oil filters. Besides automobile filters are far more commonly available than motorcycle filters. For me to get OEM Suzuki oil filters it is a 45 mile trip each way. The dealer wants $18.00 each. Sure I could get K&N, they have a very small filter medium, I would not want to use K&N oil filters. I could buy Fram oil filter at the local Walmart supermarket, I would definitely not want to use Fram oil filters on my motorcycles either. To pick up Purolator Boss 14610 oil filters they are $10.00 and I can pick them up at the local auto parts store. The filters are 1" longer, they have much larger filter medium surface area. Meant for synthetic oils. Much better quality, especially for severe service. Just what I will be saving on the first few oil changes, it is worth the $13.50 investment.
  16. If you do have 20mm. There are 5/8" off set sprockets. That is 15.875 mm Then you can remove the sprocket carrier studs and machine off 3mm And last, you can machine off 1.125 mm off the sprocket carrier inner spacer. You can machine up to 2mm before the sprocket touches and rubs on the hub of the wheel. Whatever you take off this spacer, it needs to be added to the left side outer spacer... I can supply you with machined parts if need be.
  17. Any of you guys use the Bales Technical Suzuki Oil Filter Adapters? http://balestech.com/filter.htm I use them on my SV650, my GSXR750, and my GSXR1000... The GSXR1100 has the same oil filter stand. Therefore the adapter can be used. This adapter allows you to use larger and better oil filters... Like Purolator BOSS
  18. Is welding going to weaken the frame? is it better to drill and bolt on parts?
  19. That close to the exhaust... No bueno!
  20. Drill it out and buy a Vortex or race no key fuel cap...
  21. You can destroy any wheel on any given pothole... I have seen riders take on speed bumps at speed and they bent their wheels. Same goes with guys doing wheelies and slamming them down. I rode my SV650 with Marchesini wheels for years... And my GSXR1000 is getting Dymag Magnesium wheels... As a rider, you have to scan the road ahead and try to avoid circumstances that could make you crash or destroy your wheels.
  22. So maybe a bit more information would be helpful. The motorcycle is an 80/90 GSXR1100. The bike is getting 1216cc high compression JE Pistons. And I am looking into 30/26 valves. I live in Arizona, USA 1,100' to 1,400' elevation. I venture into 8,000' elevation on mountain rides. Weather is hot 100F to 110F and dry, less than 20% humidity Carburetors are the 38mm BST38SS that came of a 91 GSXR750 I was looking into the K&L 18-9311 kit. However, it seems like it does not include main jets or pilot jets, which I was hoping to replace. Any suggestions of complete rebuilt kits, or a different brand... Suggestions on Jets to run on my set up would be great.
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