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Posts posted by Blower1
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Use the 1000 original camwheels. If you putting 34T wheels insted of 30T you will get totally different gear ration and after first crankshaft round the valves will hit the pistons.
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5 hours ago, R1guy said:
I’d rather not use external oil feed if not necessary .
Pros and cons of skimming block from top or bottom?
O-rings, good call.
Crank cases won’t need relieving to allow for larger sleeves?
Engine block/crankcase need to bore for larger sleeves. Skimming from bottom will leave more material on top where it´s needed.
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1 hour ago, R1guy said:
Nothing like resurrecting an old thread.
Just to clarify, on a 1075 motor:
•bandit liners
•mk2 Busa pistons
•skim the block by 3mm
=1360cc.Any other mods/issues/precautions to be aware of when doing this?
External oil feeds?
Engine block need to bore for bigger liners, fwd cam chain guide need to shorten 3mm, if skimming block from bottom the aft cam chain guide bolt head need to grind down, if using external oil feed the oil feeding on the engine block need to plug as well as in the cylinder head, adjustable camshaft sprockets, when boring stock cyliner block for Bandit or other OC liners can be good idea machine o-ring grooves in the bottom of the liner bores and use o-rings to stop the oil weeping up and out.
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On 4/13/2022 at 8:32 PM, Arttu said:
I think it depends on usage. On street use (=no hard launches on prepped track) I think it should be fine for way over 200hp. That's assuming it's in good condition, runout within the spec and no pitting on bearings.
The biggest problem is that you have no way to know condition of the bearings without disassembling the whole thing. So if you really want to ensure the reliability the only option is to get it checked and rebuilt. Alternatively you can check what's possible without disassembling, throw it in and see how it goes.
One problem with long (or wrong) stored cranks is moisture in the crank bearings. I have so far dismantled two otherwise nearly perfect crankshafts but found them scrap because rust has destroyed the crank pin bearing surfaces.
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I know two nearly identical 1296cc EFE engines tested in the same dyno. One with EFE BS36SS carbs, APE pods and Dynojet kit and other with GSXR 40mm CV carbs.
The one with BS36SS carbs made few HP less, but about 10Nm more than the other with 40mm CV carbs.
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On 2/16/2022 at 9:33 PM, Arttu said:
Yep, metal side out is how I think it shouid be. And how it seems to be in the manual pic above.
Those small ridges on the seal face should lay against the crankshaft bearing. Then the seal is deep enough in the engine block.
When installing the seal in the engine block, put slightly rtv-silicone on the outer edge of the seal.
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On 9/30/2021 at 8:33 PM, Allspeeds said:
Last little push before winter months subframe made to accommodate RGV seat everything fitted to work as it should seat properly hooks I n at front and rear seat uses OEM seat lock etc battery box will go under seat but we need to make exhaust first then that will dictate what room we have.
large oil cooler mounted nice 410 wide fits frame better than gsxr sized ones at 235.
Headlights and head cooler mount with space left to mount a dash once I decide on what I like thinking motec maybe?
next decision is how to final trim panels near frame????
If you moving the headlights below the oil cooler it would look much better. Now it´s like ET standing in the top of the cooler.
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22 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
nothing wrong with the early gsxr forks, have they been serviced lately ? have you tried setting them to factory settings then road test and see how the bike handles ? if too soft take a screw driver with you and adjust them one click at a time till you are happy.
as to chroming the USD's, separating the leg from the bottom calliper mount is a right P.I.T.A. i did one of mine as it was rusty at the bottom, but i just bought a new after market one off be gay, think it was £110 !!!
They have been serviced about 8000 km ago. I have no idea about factory settings. Actually forks are quite ok, but could perform better.
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I have 1990 GSXR 750 USD front forks on my cafe EFE. I know it´s are not the best front forks, but are there any
way to modify them to perform better without to spend fortune to special parts?
Bike is about 200 kg and me about the half of the bike weight with riding gear on.
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Loctite 5188 is good but removing parts can be difficult later.
I have used Hylomar because it´s easier to open later. I have blended one part of Hylomar to two parts of acetone
and then by using small paint brush painted both sealing surfaces. After the parts have dried an hour I have assembled them.
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The plug (DR8ES) thread is M12x1.25 at least on GSX 1100 EFE engines.
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It can be good idea to check clutch balance also. Clutch is a big rotating mass and if not in balance, can cause vibrations.
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6 hours ago, Reinhoud said:
I thought that 0.14 already is a lot!!
I'll see if I can find the instructions, and do some measuring..
0,14mm is a lot! On my supercharged EFE 0,11mm clearance made piston slap, but pistons were Busa pistons, not JE.
Now with JE pistons there are 0,05mm clearance. No piston slap and no scuffing marks on liners.
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On 5/10/2021 at 5:18 PM, no class said:
you lads know the max cylinder sleeve OD ......that fits a stock 1135 cylinder block ?
Cylinder sleeve bore can be enlargened to 84mm without risk of break through.
Bigger bores are possible, but there will be risk of oil leaks from cooling finn area break throughs and the cylinder block is not so ridgid anymore.
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Welcome to OSS!
Delkevic is making exhaust for GSX 1100 E, Black Widow Bandit 1200 exhaust will fit with some modifications & spigots as well as Delkevic Badit 1200 exhaust.
I have Delkevic Bandit 1200 down pipes on my 1984 GSX 1100 EFE. Mid pipe and muffler are home made.
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I have run Busa pistons in my supercharged GSX on 0.05mm piston to bore clearance with E85 fuel.
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Nice bike!
Why to put thread locker on case cover screws?
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15 hours ago, no class said:
...... aaaaand.... wonderful transmission
Which working a lot better when get the clutch steel discs level grinded.
Even the new discs are not evenly thick.
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On 7/7/2020 at 9:31 PM, GV1390 said:
Bump.
Some solid info in here thus far, thanks guys!
Question - I see a lot of you are running 4 TB's.....anyone have any info on running a single TB? Setup will a GSXR1100W with a AMR500 blower on MicroSquirt V3.
I had one TB on my supercharged EFE.
First there was 65mm TB before supercharger, It was really difficult to ride at low speeds and throttle response was really poor thanks to about 4 litre volume between TB and engine. Idle was impossible to get steady. It oscillates between 1000 - 3000 rpm.
Next step was blow through 44mm TB with mechanical blow off valve. It was a lot better, but still the throttle reponse was a little slow. With 44mm TB there was 222 rw HP. After 80% throttle opening fuel map remains nearly same. I think with one 44mm TB is possible to get about 250 rw HP.
Now there are "normal" set up with 4x32mm TB:s and 65mm mechanical blow off valve. Throttle response is nice and linear.
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I´ve 1296cc in my EFE with original carbs, SPS JR3 cams and Delkevic Bandit downpipes & free flow muffler. Nice torque from idle to redline, 144rwHP / 136rwNm.
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Get MLS gasket. No need to play with piano wires, different sealers with copper gasket and no oil leaks.
Copper head gaskets tends to leak oil even whatever sealers are used.
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If you put oil cooler that big, you definitely need to install oil stat also.
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GSX 1100 katana max cc on standard block
in Air Cooled
Posted
I think the skimming of the block is needed only when using Bandit 1200 or Hayabusa pistons with AC liners. AC liners are shorter than 1075 or 1135 liners and Bandit & Busa piston deck height are lower than GSX (Busa about 2,5 - 3 mm and Bandit about 2mm)