Bobby
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Posts posted by Bobby
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Just now, Bobby said:
Gurls blouse
that's just spun my head right out... the sites auto correct for writing the bike manufactures name that begins with a H
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Gurls blouse
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You can put a quick shifter on almost anything, I have installed one on my 250 2 stroke amongst overs, the module will just cut the ignition to take the load off the gearbox to allow for the next gear to be selected. pretty much universal even carburettor bikes with old style HT coils ignition systems it will work just the same as EFI bikes with ECU'S . You could fit one to an C90 if you wish. haha
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worth asking as for all we know it could of been something they have done on the rebuild, there's so many things it can be really. but for me I would say loose cam chain as you say the noise/rattling is approx 2-3k revs.. typical for a chain. to rule out big ends stick it in first and try pull off gently with the brake on to put load on the motor, this then will make the big ends knock if there is excessive moment there .
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was the noise there before the new chain or did he have the chain fitted as he thought this was the cause?
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14 hours ago, Maggotbreath said:
Can you post up a pic or two of your new pump?
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I have recently bought a crank driven pump from a place called top bike in Poland, looks decent but haven't used it yet to test it
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In fact I will just make these fit like you guys say. Fair play
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10 hours ago, Fazz711 said:
Why not just buy and fit new hose?
I want to keep the oil ways the same size as oem
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Update to this- I have fitted these to a 750 motor that I have and looks to be a decent fit, they don’t fit the 1100. The oil ways seem more suited as they appear smaller on the 750
I will sell this now as it won’t fit my 1100
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53 minutes ago, MeanBean49 said:
Looks to me like a 750 setup, slightly shorter hoses, you can get a meter of new hose for about £10, cut to size you need.
Regarding bore size looks to me like its -6 stuff, most people seem to go for that for some reason. Personally I've always gone with -8 for mine to mirror stock. In reality probably makes very little difference, small bore hose will put a bit more load on the pump but pressure in the hoses is less. Big hoses means less load on pump but higher pressure in the hose.
Thanks for that, Do you think that I will be ok using these with the smaller oil ways? my bike is turbo so I just need to make sure that I am going to be ok using it.
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26 minutes ago, R1guy said:
That oil hose kit looks a nice set up, which one is that?
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Just now, Bobby said:
yes the fixings are all loose and when the bottom is tightened to the casing there is no way for the shorter one to reach the right port. What is your views on the size of the oil ways compared to stock ones?
Just noticed that you said you not sure about the bore size sorry
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39 minutes ago, Dezza said:
Looks like the lines are arse about face to me: when on the bike the shorter hose should be on the right and the longer one to the left. The hoses will simply unscrew so loosen them all, fit to bike, then tighten everything up the right way round. Or remove the bits thsat go onto the head and the Y piece, fit to the engine, then fit the hoses. Dunno about the different id of the hose.
yes the fixings are all loose and when the bottom is tightened to the casing there is no way for the shorter one to reach the right port. What is your views on the size of the oil ways compared to stock ones?
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Hello all, Wondering if someone can help me here, I bought these second hand earls oil lines from the online auction site sometime last year and came to fit them today, When purchased they were listed for the 1200 bandit and gsxr 1100. I have an 1052 slabby. So when I attempted to fit them the right hose is approx an inch too short and the left has approx an inch too much- (I did swap them the other way round to check and there way off like that). Also note the size of the oil feed ports, they are smaller than the original size. Can anyone shed any light on this for me? Thanks Bobby
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On 12/23/2020 at 4:39 PM, clivegto said:
My one is awesome to ride, it's my favorite bike of all time to ride. 1216cc turbo, carbon wheels, ohlins suspension, aluminium tank.
Thats awesome nice work. My 1100 slabbie turbo build will be done next year now but after will be this 750 frame slabbie
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6 minutes ago, R1guy said:
Slabby spec one of these
nice one
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Wicked stuff, What rear shock are you using?
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6 minutes ago, R1guy said:
B12 motor in slabby 750- no sweat.
Awesome, how does it ride? what year motor is it? do they all fit?
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Cool thanks, Can anyone tell me from experience how the 750 feels with a 11/12 lump in? obviously heavier but any other things to note?
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Hi all, I have acquired a 750 slabside with a 750 motor, Now I am thinking of either using the 750 motor or potentially putting a 1200 bandit lump in. What's peoples thoughts, does the bandit 1200 motor go in easy with the frame not being able to detach at the RH lower part or are their any alternatives. thank you in advance
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
With lots of boost, the plastic ones can't take the strain - generally waaaay more boost than is sensible for road use - not hearsay either, seen it happen!
cool i though so. thank you for the info
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On a forced induction motor whats the benefits of having billet diaphragm covers if any? cheers folks
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Anyone ever replaced them? cheers guys
Quickshifter
in Oil Cooled
Posted
An average/generic kill time for quick shifters are .65 seconds, this can normally be adjusted to suit your riding style. The quickshifter that I have on my 250 shortens the kill time as the RPM's increase. GP2 guys have been using these on carb 2 strokes for years now.