badgerkdd
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Posts posted by badgerkdd
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phoned, in stock, on its way! Cheers @Gixer1460
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Item #16 - needs back-ordering .........assuming you have an 1100 GSXR? - Quote OSS and you'll get an extra 10% discount
Its the 750 not the 1100, but I'll give them a call today thanks
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If you're going to reuse the tensioner, put a new spring in it. They're cheap and mine was about 20% shorter than a new one when I replaced it.
without sounding stupid (
) where did you get one from, local dealer or online site? -
would love to, but finances are already being stretched getting the head done professionally, so its clean and use the original again!
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You can pull the tensioner out and inspect it. Measure the free length of the spring against spec.
Can't find the free length spec of the spring, manual just says if the tensioner arm doesn't move freely then replace. It does move freely
.Anyhoo, I've bitten the bullet and I'm sending my head down to a local engineers to have it skimmed and the valves re lapped. They will then rebuild the head including any shim adjustments due to re lapping. All this for roughly £100. As far as I'm aware this is a good price and I know the guys do a good job as they are well recommended. Seeing as I'm getting all that done it would be pointless skimping on gaskets so I've bought an OEM head gasket online.
Cam chain guides are in the post, so when they arrive I'll finish the engine strip down and replace the rear guide.
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I've now discovered what I hope is the source of the problem. The back cam chain guide has been broken where the chain tensioner strikes it, only on the plastic lump not the actual guide face. I've removed the head but not the barrels yet and I'm wondering if its necessary to remove the crankshaft, when its open from the bottom, to take out the guide? If it can, that will save me from removing barrels, pistons etc. and save time, effort and also of course bloody GASKETS!!
.Any advice before I turn and strip the lower engine half would be great!
Cheers, Badger.
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Bit of an open ended question this, do you have anything in mind, it'll be easier to narrow down what will and won't fit if we know what you're planning?
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I'll ask him when I get five minutes, home from the workshop now and no chance to tinker tomorrow so I've got until Monday to ponder.............
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brilliant
, I can relax about the extra oil running around!So that's it then, cam shafts off and remove the head then! I've not done this before so its easy does it and probably a whole load more questions later
!One quick question and its more of a cheapskate query, can you re use the head gasket if you are careful when taking the head off? I'll replace it if necessary but at 50 odd quid it would be nice to save it if possible.
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Here's some pics, mostly showing the oil around the exhaust port and the rotor arm, with one of the cam lobe.
apologies for the quality of the close ups, my old work camera is getting a bit tired these days
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My GSXR750 WR has developed this rattly noise at the top end. It's one of those annoying ones that comes and goes, but mostly as the bike gets warmer it sounds clearer. It seems to sound like its on cylinder 1 or 2. I did a compression test, cylinder 1 @ 140 psi, 2 @ 130 psi, 3 @ 150psi and 4 at 140 psi. Ahhh methinks, best dribble a little oil down cylinder 2 just to check rings or valves. Did that and the compression tester just read off the scale?? Maybe oil in the tester, not sure. So thinks next job lets get the cam cover off and check clearances. Long story short, took engine out now checked clearances and all within tolerance.
So I'm now confused? Cam chain is tense and within wear limits, clearances are good so its not that. I did read in the manual that 'if a valve spring is weak this can be the cause of chattering noise from the valves', but wouldn't that also affect the valve clearance readings? I'm prepared to take the head off and start removing valve springs etc if necessary but I don't want to do a full strip if I don't have to? Just as another check the cam lobes all look to be in good condition, clean, no pitting and sharp edges. This is on a 45,000 mile engine by the way.
Sooooo, what do you guys reckon, best take the head off and take a look at the valve faces and piston crowns? Then attack the valve springs etc. or does anyone have any experience of something similar and can offer a different direction of exploration to take?
One final point, after putting some oil down cylinder 2 there appears that oil came out of a small hole below the exhaust port and spread along the gasket line, is this normal? I'm hoping so, but if I have to take the head off I'll be replacing the head gasket anyway, so it is more for my information than a panic question. Also ( yeah sorry lot of questions, is an egg cup of oil in and around the rotor arm normal? when I took the cover off it dribbled over my foot, so I'm guessing an egg cup full!
I've taken a few pics if this helps too.
Thanks guys.
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er......smaller leathers? .....
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1
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Get linear springs of the correct rate for your weight, m6ch better than progressive ones, not sure if anyother internals fit though
yeah thats what I was told, but earlier I couldn't remember the name 'Linear'
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I've been thinking about upgrading my front forks for a while now, but want to keep the anodised blue fork legs as they were only done on the 94 model. Does anyone know whether or what parts from newer GsxR USD forks would be interchangeable? I've looked into Hagon Progressive Springs but most info I can find has people saying don't use them as the behaviour of progressive springs doesn't suit the bikes suspension.
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That looks smart in White! Sussed the screechy engine noise yet?
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Looks smart anyway,
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I imagine someone has done
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Box of frogs.....
My thinking too
, love it though! -
Early non V V B4 engine should fit size wise, I think they shared a few components? You might have to check the mountings / loom connections though? Might be a bigger ball ache than just getting a second hand Gsxr400 engine. Why not look at putting in a 600 Gsxr engine instead, they might be cheaper then the 400 due to more available from written off front end shmashes etc. Again don't know about size but I know the bandit engine had a bit of space around it in the frame.
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Love that owl
....and the RGV is cool too btw! -
Looks smart that
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Thanks, it was a great little bike! I made the flatter bars and the seat cowl myself, I wanted a cafe look without taking away the original lines.
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Whilst looking through other pictures I found a pic of my old 400 Bandit, nowhere near as nice as El gringo's, but it did me well!
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OUCH !!
Unfortunately, mine was the silver one with a Red ( actually more like pink ) splash up the side! Hence its now black, nice shiny black mind
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750 WR Barrels
in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
Posted
I'm looking at getting some s/hand barrels as my current ones have some scoring that I'm not sure just honing will cure. What 'W' years will fit with the 94 bottom end and pistons etc?
While I'm at it, if I tried honing the barrels will standard piston rings still suit or will I need to get larger rings?
And finally, best place/ price/ quality supplier to get rings from? ( Robinsons was going to be my first port of call, but I'm open to suggestions ).
Sorry, this is all new to me as I'm slowly stripping my engine further and delving into areas I've not been before