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johnr

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Posts posted by johnr

  1. play might be the ally basket onto the steel primary drive gear which does slightly wear over time you used to be able to buy a kit to remove the rivets and transmission shock absorber springs and replace with new ones to remove the slop, but tbh, pretty much all gs/gsx clutches rattle at some time or other.

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  2. On 8/21/2022 at 10:00 PM, coombehouse said:

    Murray carbs seem to be popular with cb900f owners when they remove the airbox & then realise the oe carbs won't work. Detuning a cb900f in this way is probably a good thing as the engines are pretty fragile.

    yeah, them 70's Gurls blouse cv carbs were a fucking nightmare to set up in the day and havent improved with age. horrible things.

    • Like 1
  3. 35 minutes ago, wraith said:

    Put a set in my gs1000 about, errr over 6 years ago, standard comp, not a hi comp kit

    but been in ever since with no problems.

    Mine came from Hong Kong, think I payed about £80 then.

    i remember you posting about it back then and there were quite a few 'itll never last' posts!

    • Like 2
  4. On 5/24/2022 at 9:26 AM, Joseph said:

    EFE has more stuff on it.

    Katana 750/1100 will be identical

    GSX 750/1100 will be identical

    However, although useable, the GSX differs from the katana a bit (namely, the Katana uses an Oilcooled type fuse box, Katana has electronic rev counter, no fuel sender etc)

    Lengths on the lighting differ somewhat also, but not a lot so thats not a major problem

    almost. the 1100 with the roller crank had its oil pressure switch on the top of the crankcase behind cylinder 4, the 750 has its oil pressure switch on the right side of the engine under the ignition cover, so the cables are slightly longer and some 750's had an oil temp sensor, otherwise theyre the same.
    all the gs1000 and 1075 gsx motor looms are pretty similar until you get to the clocks wiring connections. remember the kat has an electronic tacho where the et had a mechanical tacho drive.
    but nothing is insurmountable so get the closest you can find and make it work.

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  5. yes, the o rings on the head bolts can perish and oil will seep past them and down the studs and give the impression of a head gasket leak. you need to take off the rocker cover and you can do them with the head on if youre careful and do them one at a time. put a tiny smear of welseal on the o ring round the nut just so it doesnt tear as you tighten it down. its a common issue on the gsx motor.

  6. On 4/25/2022 at 11:02 PM, caferacerdan said:

    cant say 100% if it was POR15 in there. I just know it was some form of liner.

    However, any lacquer thinner or solvent is some percentage of acetone so easier and cheaper to just buy neat acetone and use that...the liner that was in there i had removed the excess by hand however the liner removed in the picture was what was still 'stuck' to the tank...2 days with the acetone in and id say 90% of it came out...hopefully that answers your question!

    for 15 quid for 5 litres its worth a go...if you have a fancy paintjob though make sure you dont get any acetone on it or it will be gone xD

    por15 is silver and resistant to acetone, if acetone removes it and the flakes coming out are a browny yellow opaque colour, its almost certainly petseal, ive had to remove petseal liners that had been in decades but were destroyed by ethanol in petrol, i replaced them all with por15 and never had it fail yet.

    • Like 6
  7. On 2/26/2022 at 7:43 PM, TonyGee said:

    any, all the same, 2000 on they had a hole in the cover for the speedo sensor. 

    you answered my question that id not asked! im looking for a cover for a gsxr11 motor with cable clutch and electronic speedo sensor! thanks!

    • Like 1
  8. when you say the adv ret weights are moving, does the advance retard unit rotate by a few degrees when you try to twist it and in doing so pop the bobweights out? it should all move freely with no stiction or seizure.  if your ignition isnt advancing and retarding correctly, you can fit a million sets of carbs and it still wont run.

     

  9. try to find a set of kat 400 rims, much lighter than the stock snowflake rims, but the same snowflake pattern so almost indistinguishable from stock (tho 18 inch front not 19 inch) but as well as being tubeless, theyre loads wider so can take wider tyres and the front can carry much bigger disks so youve still got the stock look, bot everything is improved!

  10. just out of interest, if its a 750 does it still run on points or is it a cdi model? and in either case, have you checked the automatic advance retard unit on the ignition, if the unit has corrosion or the bobweights are seized it could be stuck in either full advance or full retard, and if its points, then you need to make sure the points are clean and gapped and the condensors are new. worth going through the obvious basics first, before diving into the carbs. if it was a bit rough before and now its not playing ball it could be something as simple as the ignition timing being off.

  11. im at stafford with the thumper club (single cylinder guys) im taking my matchless this year, we are on the top balcony too, bottom left corner of that plan.
    if youve never been before, you access the upstairs balcony with your bike via the ramp on the outside shown at the bottom of the right side of that plan.i'll pop over and say hi.

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