johnr
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Posts posted by johnr
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whether it helps or not i dont know, but the 750 pop up kat has a near identical swingarm and suspension linkage setup, so perhaps the shocker is similar?
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gs1000 spoked wheel. theyre uber rare and very sought after. when suzuki made the kat szx for use in some race series in the southern hemisphere, they raided the spare parts bin for stuff and used spoked rins from the early gs1000, theyre rare cos most spoked suzuki rears of the era had a drum brake and most disk braked rears were on cast ally rims, so this is the rare spoked rim with a disk brake. when people buy sets of spoked wheels from a gs to build bikes, 90+% of the value of when they pay is in the rear wheel hub. theyre just super rare, tons of spoked front hubs are out there, but this particular combination of spoked rim and disk hub is probably the most desirable of all the vintage suzuki wheels. ive seen just the hub, no rim or bearings, but just the hub, fetch over 250 quid. thats a great find. (a very few gt750 kettles had this hub and an even smaller number of re5's, but that does nothing to make them less sought after). the fact that someone in the past has fitted it with an ally rim just saves you having to do it!!
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cos the switches require so little to connect up, they can go inside the bars making for a cleaner look, these are the two pairs of wires plus an additional twin core for the brake light switch, but all unternal now so nothing to show.
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and these are the waterproof conectors, all these are wrapped then heatshrinked before fitting them so theres a degree of weatherproofing built into this all. these take a bit of fiddling to crimp up and get in the right order! but time will tell if it all works!
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and this is the underside of the switch showing just a pair of tiny cables doing all functions hi-lo left right and horn.
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i decided to go all belts and braces and fit the control boxes inside a waterproof box thats fixed under the seat, the box is 100mm x 80mm which indicates the sixe of the unit, wires out were wrapped and heat shrinked so i could fit a rubber grommit to seal it. as this bike will be living outside, i just want it all weatherproof.
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this is my plan for wiring the bike minus the clocks, all electrics under the seat go to the rear box, everything at the front goes to that box, and a single data cable links them.
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this was the kit i bought, aside from the starter relay which ive got a new one of, this will cover everything except the speedo which is a seperate loom as it does the gear selection as well as warning lights.
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ive taken the opportunity to wire all my connections with waterproof crimps whilst im doing it, theyre a faff with all the fiddly seals and such but i figure its one of those things you do once and then its done. ill post a few pics later on.
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you can reduce wiring if you use electronic switches. mine have two buttons on the right bar that do engine on and engine kill as well as starter motor, but use just two thin wires to do the operations, the left bar does hi lo beam headlight, horn and left right indicators, but again just uses 4 small trace wires to signal to the controller. regardless of this even with a minimal loom, its still complicated if you want to use a set of clocks that then require warning lights for hi beam indicators and neutral, oil, charge etc. ive just made a series of small sub looms that plug into the main loom, this is more for my own use than anything else as front lights, rear lights, ignition, clocks are all sub looms that connect sepeately, no fuses are needed and no relays for lights etc. its still about 1/3rd of the original loom in terms of the number of wires needed. but when youve a bike with several butchered loomsof unknown condition, you might as well start from scratch and wire it to suit yourself, cos nobody else will be working on it for you.
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ive been wiring my kat and ive found it easier to see it as a series of smaller sub looms al feeding back to the control box. that way you can wire one small sub loom at a time and it keeps everythign seperated.
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all you need from your motogadget is a live to feed the cdi. make up a sub loom to cover just the ignition, coils, pickups, cdi box, then you just have a live feed into it from the motogadget thats switched with the ignition.
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On 11/21/2022 at 7:10 PM, Gixer1460 said:
The rust alone shows the water attraction problem! I'll be using ESSO E5 which they declare as ethanol free.
except they dont. essos website proudly declares that their e5 petrol is ethanol free........ except for in cornwall....... and devon..... oh and north wales........ oh and northern england........ oh and also scotland...... but yeah, aside from that, its all ethanol free.....
https://www.esso.co.uk/en-gb/fuels/petrol-
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14 minutes ago, Joseph said:
Several kawasakis use a front sprocket sensor for the speedo like the mk2 Bandit
Suzuki system fits a small rotor with notches and studs (4), it screws onto the gearbox ouput shaft, which is threaded for the purpose.
Kawasaki use a better system for us people who like adaptations : the nut that holds the sprocket on is a specific shaped one, with 4 faces/edges that act as pickup points for the sensor.
Why people still try to drill their gearbox shafts beats me
These nuts are readily available, same thread as Suzuki and if you need depth clearance they can be machined down a tad to suit.
Fitted to :
W650 : 1999-2006
W800 : 2011-2016
ZX10R : 2003-2006
ZX6R : 1998-2003
ZX9R : 1998-2003
thats brilliant information. ive a gsxr motor in my kat and am looking to fit an electronic speedo but was wondering about the sender. this is why i love this site!
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On 12/13/2022 at 12:01 PM, Joseph said:
And there is always the Kawasaki sprocket nut trick if needing to avoid drilling or for depth issues :
tell us more. ive never heard this.
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grinding paste on a piece of 6mm plate glass to remove irregularities, if itsbad, use two base gaskets with the thinnest smear of wellseal between them.
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you just need to measure all the gaps and then the shims, its possible that youll be able to make up some of the valves with the shims you already have and then just order the ones you need. they should have their thickness etched on the underside, but id measure them anyway in case theyre worn or someone has put them in the wrong way up and polished the measurement off.
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not the most handsome swingarm ive ever seen, the wheel mounts make my eyes bleed, but i bet it wont flex too much judging by the size of it.
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we need pictures.
not sure we will be able to help, but ive never heard of a calfab swingarm so i want to know what it looks like! if it was made for the bike, chances are itll use stock bearings.-
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crocks are black, its just the light! theyre my second best travelling crocs....
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first real forray into oilcooled for me. the kat has a gsxr motor in it, but this was designed to be oilcooled from the start. bit of a rare beast these days too. plan is to get it registered first and then its going to be towing a sidecar for my grandaughter.
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Check your earth's, then check them again and finally check your earth's.
It's lighting up like an Xmas tree cos the power is backflowing down the earth through other lamps that share the same earth wire.
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1 hour ago, larry996 said:
Sorry Wraith, can you be more specific? b6 SV? You mean an SV650 Clutch and master cylinder will work on the GS1000? Thanks in advance
B6 = bandit 600.. sv = sv650
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o rings on the centre front stud nuts. nobody changes them and they leak, many a perfectly good head gasket has bitten the dust due to these o rings.
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Wheel identification
in Air Cooled
Posted
Then you're winning at life, only the later 750s came with what was seen at the time as the boring dull old-fashioned spoked wheel. Everybody wanted the much more fashionable snowflake cast ally wheels. Fashion's change eh!