Damienga15de
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Posts posted by Damienga15de
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Ignition system is as per when I had the 1127 in it so nothing should be different , I swopped over the ignition pickup to the bandit engine, I might have a spare rev counter in the box of shite that I can try , is it possible a coil pack is breaking down at high rpm ?
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So my bike won't rev past 9k anyone got.any idea where to start looking ?
91 gsxr 750
Gsxr 1100 cdi
Bandit 1200 engine
Gsxr 1100 cams
Coil on plug conversion
Gsxr 750 38mm carbs k&n filters
factory Pro jet kit 155 mains
Micron headers yoshi can
Bike ran a 1127 on the same setup fine , slight bogging at low rpm high load still the very same , revs clean and crisp off load , just under load falls flat on its face at 9k
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That's a 1127/1157 cover no idea what the gasket is picked up as a bandit 12 but way too small
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Factory Pro jet kit designed for the 1127 on 38s mine ran well on base settings, the aluminium carb needle holders if you can get some see the sticky thread
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Whats the recommended sprocket sizing for a 6 speed 1127, i currently run a 14/48 will this work,
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i sleeved the engine thinking id possibly go back 750, wont happen though , building a 6 speed 1100 at the minute
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Anyone know what size hole needs to be drilled in the 750 gear shaft handy save me dragging out one of the 1100s and measuring it
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10 hours ago, Swiss Toni said:
@Damienga15deI have an 1100F gear cluster here if you want to stay stock?
What is this stock you speak of?
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Front oil drain is leaking on the gsxf 1127 so the head has to come off anyway, the gsxr 1127 is port matched for my bst 38s already would it be better to. Just swop. The heads over
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I have 3 engines, and one empty frame,
1991 gsxr 750 (burning hideous amounts of oil and exhaust threads wrecked)
1989/90 gsxr 1127 (bottom end bearings badly gone)
1991 gsxf 1127 (2nd gear gone)
What is the best combination I can make, iv looked at frankemsteins guide there's a lot going on in it. I'm going to look again but I think the gsxf bottom end with the 750 6speed box, and I'm struggling to understand if the gsxr1127 head will be an improvement over the gsxf
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21 hours ago, Nutter. said:
Are you interested in selling S100rr shock
no i think ill be keeping it as a spare , might get it rebuilt and sprung to suit better
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On 4/30/2022 at 8:12 PM, Nutter. said:
Been offered a hagons cheap
i fitted a hagon bandit shock to mine it lowered it a little which kinda suits, i do have lust racing links in it so i run higher at the back standard, i took out a s1000rr shock and i find the haggon much better
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I used a zx7r master for my 7/11 build had similar issues with a ducati brembo cylinder when experimenting
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Im running my 7/11 using the 38s from the 750 and a factory pro kit , works great iv been tuning it myself and it runs great but I’d bet a proper dyno tune would see better power
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On 11/28/2018 at 11:32 AM, CockneyRick said:
This is in no way a criticism, just an observation that i have passed on to @jonny1bump
I have fitted these to my BS38's & before, needle protrusion was at 61mm with clip in middle of 5.
After fitting, the protrusion was down to 59mm. So i raised clip to top notch of 5 & needle then protruded 61mm again.
My point was, has anyone had this when they fitted, or as J1 suggests, they were made the right thickness to stop this happening?
I will strip mine down again & double check it all, but chances of all 4 not seating correctly is remote. I can only think the step in 38's isn't as deep?
Only way of really knowing would be to cut the slide apart, if my depth gauge won't fit
Just going back through this thread, im running 38s on my 1127 with the factory pro kit, iv had some richness around the 2500-4000 rpm range, iv had to put the clips to the top lowering the needles fully. the recommendation from factory pro was clip position 2 , im now in position 1 the top and its running great now.
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Would you happen to have a parts list wanted ? Picked up the wheel nice and light even with a bad tyre on it . Might try find a swiand and do a dry build of it
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On 4/9/2020 at 11:36 PM, GV1390 said:
+1
Looking for some an update as well for the rear on mine.
Has anyone done this yet I’m lifting a 675 rear wheel tomorrow for small money
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My 750 M had a h4 high and low in the left headlight and a h7? with an adaptor in the right headlight
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Hi guys, I'm struggling with my 7/11, had a lot of creep in gear when clutched in. I have a 1127 v710 engine told its from a M model but not confirmed. The creep has stopped but I can not select neutral when stationary.
My pushrod is 92mm
My friends 1100m pushrod is 101.4mm
Do I need a 101.4mm pushrod? Seems a lot longer than mine that almost works
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Think it was off a st4? would build fine pressure on a siezed cylinder on a test but nothing near enough travel at the slave on the bike, the zx went on lovely and once bled works the finest.
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Got sorted zx7r we believe, working perfect,
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Yes I think it would the 1100 fouls on top fairing brace, ducati just clears it
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32 minutes ago, MeanBean49 said:
The ducati master should work, ive been using them for years.
Even if it's 13mm and looks to be a shorter stroke, it does make the clutch slip but definetly doesn't disengage fully at tick over you would do well to make the wheel stop by hand.
It is a full new ebc clutch pack would this make a difference
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Hi all, I have been slack with my build hoping to get it done soon but have ran into a issue. The standard 1100 master fouls the 750 fairing, and the ducati brembo master looks and fits great but doesn't push enough fluid to disengage the clutch properly. The ducati appears to be a 13mm cylinder and the 1100 a 14 but the stroke feels longer on the 1100 too
What other options have I got?
1157 Not revving past 9k
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Fuel lines are OK I made sure there were no kinks or squeezes on them