Quist
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Posts posted by Quist
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On 10/4/2019 at 4:01 PM, Swiss Toni said:
I seem to remember @Quistwas doing them at one point?
Correct and in stock too. Grumpy is selling our kits too btw (Y)
But these won't fit a EFE, only GS / GSX.
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@Rene EFE could be a nice trip through Belgium, Luxembough etc.
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Mosseltreffen is a good one, 15min drive from home so when the weather is shite I'm home in a minute haha.
Good atmosphere there and literly the last legal street sprint in Holland. Blending OSS would't be a good idea. It is organised by the Lost Ones, no clubs, no stands, just sprints, beer and music.
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1 hour ago, Gixer1460 said:
Hmmmm - Air shifters are best left for the strip as obviously the air supply is limited unless carrying a compressor (and who wants extra weight and electrical load?)
Personally i'd go for a good 'Quick Shifter' - ie clutchless WOT foot change. They are fractionally slower than an airshifter but don't run out of air, and can still be used on the road at less than max attack speeds. I've used both and even had a Nitrous shifter system when I used Gas on the road bike - but prefer the Quick shifter on the road.
Latest Co2 / nitrous filled bottles will last for about 300 - 400 shifts.
Only thing you need beside a regular air/co2 shifter is a killbox which kills the ignition (MPS for example).
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Just signed in for a free entry etc. With the rgv
It is Almost a full Tyga equiped rgv, can put it in the OSS stand.
Also bring my trackbike, 750M. To do the trackdays.
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Think the 1100 shrinked, already 27 years old though haha
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14 hours ago, Captain Chaos said:
38's are definitely bigger than 36's.
And 750 '88 is the smallest Slingy, 750 '90 and '91 is same size as 1100.
Measured my 88 750 and 1100 91 frame two weeks ago.
The same.
only difference are the pieces near the headstock where the loom Goes through (tubes / triangle holes). 750 angle is more shallow which is the reason that the engine need Some more work to get in. Beside that, around the engine is the same size.
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On 9-1-2018 at 9:03 AM, bruteforce said:
The heatshield you mentioned from SF services fits well on my ‘89 750. You seem to have a combo of 1100 motor, 38mm carbs with a 750 frame. Understandably it needs some mods imho. The shield needs to be trapped behind the clips, I trimmed the slot for the throttlecable drum a bit wider and that’s it.
1100 motor is no difference in a 750 chassis, 38mm are the same body as 36, 1100 M chassis is the same as 750 88. Shouldn't make a difference about fitting a heatshield.
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It is a 1100 chassis looking at the lower engine mounts. But when looking to the massive welds I think it is a selfmade thing (the brace with removeble top mount)
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The sneezing can be a result of a cilinder running lean. Could be a dirty nozzle. You got a infrared temp meter? Then you can measure the temp of the exhaust pipes and read what the bike is doing, quite handy in these cases.
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Hmm.. Just had a look, cilinder 2 -3 were running quite lean indeed. Don't think the cooler is the problem, I run the dragbike without cooler and sometimes take it for a spin around the village as you know
no problems with temperature.
Check oil pressure to be sure, put the needles of carburator 2 -3 one step higher/richer to be sure they don't run lean. But first change the sump indeed incl regulator as the engine get very hot and you can touch the cooler.
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Two spacers indeed. Got a NWS arm based on a Bandit arm in my 750 88 Slingshot, two bushed did the job.
I use a 1100M linkage in this setup.
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Any sump will fit from any oilcooled engine. Make sure to match the pick-up and pipes.
got a 600F on my 1127
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Bugger... Made some deal on the PVM wheels with my mate. But he sold them in the meantime... fucker.
At least I do know that it will work, so looking again for some nice forged wheels again.
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9 hours ago, MeanBean49 said:
Im pretty sure the sprocket offset is 10mm bigger on k5 wheels. 10mm offset front sprocket would make chain foul on the frame.
I used k1-4 wheels. Solved it with a combination of 2mm spacer behind front sprocket, 5mm off rear carrier and talon sprocket fitted backwards to get the chain run to be straight and wheel central
Exactly.
I measured that theres 15mm need to go gone to get the wheel exact in the center.
I can remove 5mm on the inside of the sprocket carrier, then I need to remove 10mm from the sprocket offset. Was thinking that a 10mm offset sprocket would solve it but indeed, the frame is in the way..
Idee: 5mm off the carrier, 5mm offset on front sprocket and a reversed offset rear sprocket which will solve the last 5mm.
Measured everything yesterday, nice to see the same solution! Thanks @MeanBean49 !
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Picked up the wheels at my mate today, it's gonna work out
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So it is possible without major changes?
Planning to mount a set of Forged PVM 6 spoke wheels with Beringer discs... So before I buy... well you get it
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Ok, before I spend a small fortune on a set wheels and discs...
So has anyone done it or know if it will work. A set Gsxr k5 wheels in a Gsxr 750 M. I know the front Axle is 25mm and the rear 27/28, that is an easy "problem" to solve. I'm mainly after if the sprocket carrier and disc spacing are quite correct or usable.
I'm gonna use a stock fork and a braced W swingarm. The K5 rear wheel is 6" wide.
It should be easier with a K5 fork but I want to stick at the stock fork.
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On 6 november 2016 at 9:09 PM, johnr said:
leave it as it is and perfect your technique first. reality is that a lot of folks post better times than others who have more bhp just because they are better at getting down the power they have.
unless that is, youre already scorchingly quick and are being held back by a shortage of power... in which case might i suggest,,,,, turbos.....My idea..
Also started last year with a stock 1127 engine, first learn to ride. And this year after some extra power
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What are your 1/4 times now with the 1127?
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Try stock springs. But use thinner needles like Dynojet or Factory Pro.
Or the best answer, dyno
Within minutes you know where too look and adjust to solve this problem.
Build my 750 with complete different carb setup after bought it stock. Within 1,5 hour we got good numbers on the dyno and 11.5 on the quarter easily.
17.5 pilot jets @ 3 turns out on the screws (have tried 2, 2.5, 3.5 and 4 turns out)
110 main jets
standard needles on lower most clip position
Standard slide springs but shortened free length by 20mm -
In English: http://www.zettex.com/products/aerosols/14-lubrication/137-mp800-pressure-pack
But almost every brand got ceramic grease nowadays, Eurol, Putoline, Zettex, Kroon Oil, and so on.
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On 7 oktober 2016 at 7:57 PM, Swiss Toni said:
And no problems with the Copperslip melting off ?
I never use copperslip paste anymore, better use the ceramic grease. Works excellent when you use stainless bolts in alu and is heat resistant up to 1000+ degrees.
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1127, sidewinder exhaust, dyna 4000 ignition.
Tried and tested several jet sizes 125 - 145 on the dyno. Mikuni recommend jet 135 in the datasheet and they were right in my case. Don't look at fuel consumption or a "correct" AF ratio. In my case running a bit rich result in good Numbers on the dyno and on the track.
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(Very) Old parts
in Forced Induction
Posted
@Duckndivethose are the same!