fredbcj

:-)

I think I have found the o ring sizes, 7.5mm i/d x 1.5 mm , obviously petrol resistant viton ect, does the size sound correct. You can see number 3 rich flooding on idle

gsxr1100 m ,i have checked valve clearances,compression,changes ht leads ,cleaned carbs , it runs fine until slow riding when it will bog down then run on 3 , open it up and it coughs like a 2 stroke ,clears then takes off, i am thinking blocked pilot or more likely i think ,perished O ring round the float valve seat ,would it flood a bit ,the plug on this cylinder is black on the electrode, any help ,pointers would be greatfully recieved,cheers fred

I will give it a look at this weekend, has anyone had issues with ebc clutch plates, a set came with the bike, but previous owner said he was recommended not to use, I've never had any issues, everyday road use

Thanks for the info, appreciated, I will take a look this weekend

What's the cure for a dragging clutch on a 1100 slingy, is the pushrod worn?

Is 1127 m slingshot the same as 750 k slingshot? I have to tidy up two and I might make a board up to repair the switch gear n headlight looms

i hope theirs another in the year

i hope somethings happening again later in the year

saunders

Their is a discount code further down the thread (ENDLEG) i paid £18 bargain :-)

is there any camping on the infield on the sunday night ? ,i booked in to campsite at the back of melbourne loop saturday ,be a shame leave so quick sunday evening ,

cheers ,i got it wrong ,gates open friday 6 in evening ,2 day event ,cheers

Can anyone use the discount code if were coming to watch and camping ? and is the racing Saturday Sunday and Monday ? cheers

i`me getting drunk and reminiscing ,i sold a horse that was given to me as a foal ,to help my mum ,i bought a x7 with good intent with the spare £200 ,1 rd shock was cheaper than 2 hagons so i put a loop in ,see the white in the clip ons that`s sulpher from the galvanized tube ,i still use a mitatoyu vernier i bought when i was 17 for 39 quid as we re machined the head ,i wish i had more photos

interesting to learn ,never seen it before ,good one

nlovian was spot on with No5 ,treat the welding sequence like a bolt down routine on a cylinder head to cheat distortion,locking the joints first top on same joint left n right ,then bottom left n right ,then oppose welds as you go.areas like swing arm pivot areas it`s easier to pull the frame in ,so a tad more on the outside first means with the shrink you can keep the gap ,and if it does go wrong it can be relieved

i was just about to take that photo down ,as i realised my error ;-)

i dont know what rtfr means,I was on the old site and the one before

i was asked to make some expansion chambers to other peoples design a few years ago, once you have measured and drawn your original pipe ,then you can do any alterations (like take 30mm out the header,make the belly narrower,ect ) always handier if the bikes in front of you ,i cant work everything out so i used http://download.cnet.com/Cone-Layout/3000-6677_4-10551691.html ,same as anything the more accurate your drawing the better the info you put in, basic is inlet dia and angle ,centre length ,exit dia and angle ,once you make one bit you can save it to a dxf file for any laser cutting firm or print out a paper template and superimpose it on the sheet you need to cut ,the hardest part is keeping track of the bits and marking parts before fabrication ,sharpies are better than sticky labels ,t250 was handcut and rolled and brazed before i had a tig welder ,kr pipes was coppied from jim lomas pipes then adapted (more under the motor,dont burn the fairing,developed for 35mm carbs ) and laser cut at a old firm i used to work for ,if you can picture it in your mind it can be made,