smudge
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Posts posted by smudge
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Hi lads, okay I'm gonna bite the bullet and pick up a low mileage bandit 12 and swap the motors , can I take it as gospel that all oil cooled bandit 12 engines are a straight swap into a slabby frame? Any years I should look for or avoid? Any and all advice appreciated.
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3 hours ago, Dezza said:
My soldering doesn't look shit as I used to work as a bt engineer for 9 years
and if done only resides in loom sections that remain static. And i have a heat gun for shrinkdowns too 
But yes, I agree. Using a soldered joint in a section of loom that moves (e.g. around the headstock) is asking for trouble as is using a naked flame on the thin shrinkdown suitable for bike looms.
Totally agree.
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7 minutes ago, wraith said:
Bike looks nice.
You could put a b12 lump in there for the rest of summer and start sorting the gsxr motor. The biggest thing is these are now a old motor and if, as it seems the rings/bores are ready for a re-bore and maybe the oil pump is u.s what else is fucked?
You would be wise getting the crank looked at if you're going big bore or you may end up like I did and putting a Conrod through the crankcase (twice
) not a great fan of the 1052 motors, the 1127 and 1157 seem to be much stronger. But that's just my opinion.
Thanks, yea I was thinking the same thing about the b12 motor , possibly picking up a low mileage bandit 12 in good order, swap the motor and sell the rest, my previous bike was a b12 I loved the motor but wasn't keen on the rest of it, I'm not sure if I have the skills/experience for a bottom end rebuild, thanks for the reply, appreciated
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Thanks for the reply, yea this is what I was thinking , I knew the compression wasn't great and figured it would need at the least new piston rings , oil pressure was my big concern, hard to tell without a temperature gauge when the engine is at 60 degrees, but it seems way hotter than that, even when I'm out and about if i stop moving for more than 5 minutes smoke starts coming the engine breather. As far as ignition timing I fitted a dyna 2000 ignition system and was super careful when fitting it .
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Hi guys, so been up on the road on my recently done slabside 1100 fighter , the bike was put together from bits and pieces so the plan was to get some miles on it and test what's working and what's not , every thing seemed to be going okay apart from a few tweaks here and there , really wanted to test the engine as I was planning on getting it bored out over the winter, it's an original 1052 engine with dyna200 ignition, stage3 jets and pod filters, I noticed there is smoke coming from the engine breather with that smell of burning oil when it gets hot and it seems to be hot all the time! It seems to be going through a lot of oil ( over a litter in 800 miles) but it doesn't seem to be burning it in the cylinders , the engine runs and sounds okay but not as fast as I thought it should be so I did a compression test on it and it wasn't great ( around 100psi across the board if the cheep Chinese compression tester was reading right before it fell to pieces!) Was planning on boring it out anyway so wasn't to worried about that but figured I'd do an oil pressure test just to be sure , when the engine is warming up it reeds at about the minimum 40ish psi but when it gets hot it drops to between 15 to 20psi , I thought this seemed a bit low so I dropped the sump out and checked the oil pressure regulator and relief valve and they seem fine, repeated the test with fresh oil and got the same results, would really appreciate any advice here as this level of spannering is pretty new to me! Are these oil pressure readings on the low side? Replace oil pump? Combined with the low compression test is this indicating a worn/ knackered Engine? As usual any and all advice really appreciated
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5 minutes ago, Digs said:
That ring is the nuts, suits the build perfectly.
did you buy the switchgear from motogadget? Quite like the minimal look of it.
Thanks, really appreciated, yea I got most of the fancy stuff from motogadget , they are a bit expensive but the quality is pretty dam good, there are cheaper alternatives , might be just as good, thanks again.
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2 hours ago, dynodave said:
Yeah, liking that Smudge! I also know what you mean about wiring the switchgear through the bars...Its a Ball-ache!
Cheers Dave, heard it's like trying to paint your hallway through the letter box , so true!
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24 minutes ago, gsxwill said:
Seconded on that!
Hats off to you!!
Thanks very much. All the welding, fabrication and electrics was done by myself, the only thing I paid out for was anything CNC billet, swingarm and paint , I totally underestimated the work that goes into these projects! Have a whole new respect for the guys on this forum! Cheers , really appreciated.
Not sure if anyone is interested in this but I used a motogadget m lock , it's a sensor and RFID chip that you use instead of a key , people normally sew the RFID chip into their gloves or jacket sleeve so you don't have to Cary key's around but I would probably loose them anyway, so I made a ring out of a stainless steel nut and epoxy'd the chip into it. It's well handy.
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7 hours ago, dynodave said:
Those electrics are unreal! Nice job Smudge!
Cheers Dave, this was my first time wiring a bike from scratch so I was learning as I went along! I used a motogadget m unit which I would definitely recommend, the only thing I don't like about it is the side stand switch only cuts power to the starter not the ignition so I spliced in the relay and diode from the original loom, ( definitely don't recommend trying to go round a left hand bend with the side stand down!!!) Hardest part was wiring the switch gear through the bars! Thanks again, appreciated.
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42 minutes ago, SiBag said:
I do like the simplistic black an white colour scheme..
Cheers, this was my first "proper" bike build so thought simple done well would be better than complicated done badly! A lot of the work you can't see!
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Cheers guys, appreciated.
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Finally on the road with my slabside streetfighter ( Jesus only took 6 years!!!) Big thanks to everyone on Oss who took the time to answer my questions and offer advice, really appreciated. Also big thanks to streetfighter magazine for all the beautiful bikes and boobs before the internet. 
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On 5/26/2021 at 2:04 PM, 370steve said:
http://www.componentengineering.co.uk/, if i remember correctly they were £90 with postage
Hi, big thanks for the recommendation , just got my bolts from Ralph today, he done a superb job, I would definitely recommend him as well, cheers, appreciated.
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I wrap it tight with masking tape, and then carefully cut around it (not through it in one go) with a grinder with a 1 mm micro disk, then use a socket to hold the fitting and push n twist it on , I don't leave the tape on , hardest part is not marking the fittings . I also blow it out after to make sure there's no bits left in it.
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5 hours ago, Spyder31 said:
I used Ti on anything larger than M6 including the front engine mounts and all fame fasteners, stainless on smaller fasteners. I use both Pro-Bolt and Race Bolt but prefer to use Race Bolt if they have what I need.
Yea, I'm pretty much doing the same, I've ordered in titanium bolts for the frame and engine mounts only really gonna use stainless for engine cases and anything that's not under pressure or stress, just makes maintenance so much easier , Christ I'm sick to the balls of having to drill out shite rusty fixings that have broken! And titanium looks class as well, thanks for the advice , appreciated.
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7 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
And all used in a 40 year old internally rusty frame - the mounts are sound, they'll just be attached to bits of tubular rust on the floor LOL!
LOL, no way man the frame is alloy , this bike will be buried with me and dug up in the future by aliens as good as new .
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Okay I admit it I am obsessed with making my bike rust proof! Just had these made up. Stainless engine brackets.
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3 hours ago, 370steve said:
you can get them made in Grade5 Ti from Component Engineering
Hi, thanks for the advice, do you have a link for component engineering and if you don't mind me asking how much did they charge? I'll probably chance it with the stainless for now but will definitely upgrade to titanium as soon as I can. Cheers bud, appreciated.
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6 hours ago, mellow-fellow said:
We used to do various things to parts for helicopters, all the aluminium went from us to the platers and was Alochromed, thats greenish/gold coating.
I heard it called alodine, alochrome and something else.Any fasteners I have to make for my vintage bike I make from 431 stainless.
Use Duralac between stainless and aluminium.
Hi, thanks for the advice , unfortunately I don't have a lathe or the skill to make up fasteners, but if do get any made I'll take your advice and go with the 431, I'm mostly going with grade5 titanium for the engine and suspension bolts except for the two long bolts at the back of the engine which I'm using a2-70 stainless because I couldn't get them in that size in titanium, as regards to using the duralac , do you use it on the the threads ? Do you need it if your using locktight ? All advice appreciated,
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25 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Maybe true ie. Stainless 410 grade is an option but is not widely available and its rarity probably increases its cost exponentially! Not even ProBolt are likely to use 'Hi Grade' stainless! For the aggro sourcing HT SS - just use a plated steel 8.8 or 10.9 HT bolt.
Hi thanks for the advice, I can't find any one selling high tensile stainless ( heat treated ,martensitic etc ) and to be honest I think your right that the cost would be crazy , I guess it's all a trade off and a compromise between strength and corrosion resistance, I live in Ireland whare it pisses down every other day so so I always try to use stainless if I can ( have most of my dirt bike done and it's paid dividends when it comes to maintaining it) I think I will probably go with a2-70 on frame and engine mounts and grade 5 titanium on the suspension and other more critical bits, either way has to be better than the rusty crap that came out of it? Big thanks to everyone one who has taken the time to offer there advice and experience, this is my first "proper bike build" so it's all really appreciated, cheers lads.
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3 hours ago, Dezza said:
I have used stainless for suspension linkages with no problems, and also for caliper mounts, for which they are widely sold, again with no problems.
Thanks, again all advice appreciated, do you know what type of stainless? A2-70 ? A4-80,
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2 hours ago, MeanBean49 said:
Ditto
Ive used stainless for pretty much most things except main engine bolts, swingarm and wheel spindes and shock and linkage bolts.
Thanks for the advice, this seems to be the consensus, appreciated.
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1 hour ago, Captain Chaos said:
Thanks for the link, appreciated.
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30 minutes ago, MeanBean49 said:
Ditto
Ive used stainless for pretty much most things except main engine bolts, swingarm and wheel spindes and shock and linkage bolts.
Thanks all advice appreciated.
Help my oil burner is burning oil !!!
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Thanks guys, that's really good to know , much appreciated.