Motovalet

Yeah, 750F is a short stroke motor sadly. I've a 600F motor which is a long stroke motor but I'm thinking the valves would be smaller in there anyway? I've found plenty of used valves for the slingshot J and K motor but can't find anything for the L motor? looking like I'll have to stump up the mega expensive price for a new genuine Suzzook one :-(

I need a couple of inlet and exhaust valves for my 1990 750L, does anybody know if I can use the ones for the short stroke J/K Slingshot models or are the bigger/smaller etc. ??

I was hoping to shove a complete GSX750F front end in that's kicking about in my garage and then hopefully a GSX600F or Bandit 600 swinging arm and a 150 three spoke rear wheel. Looking at the frame I'm not convinced there's enough space height wise for the 600 oil boiler out of my 600F so it may end up as a running gear mod only?

So I picked this old smoker up for £400, all there and mostly original. Starts and runs well with just over 28,000 miles on her, all in all a sweet little thing. Cleaned her up and taking her for an MOT next week. I want to run it as is for the Summer complete with naff brakes, skinny rear tyre and 16" front hoop, but over the coming Winter I'd like to fit my surplus teapot 600F motor and running gear left over from my 600F/750R project. I've never seen a 550 modded and I'm not even sure if the oil boiler will even fit, if so then hopefully the running gear will? I'm trying to recreate my long gone sadly sold 750ES which had a 750J motor, braced JMC arm and Bandit 600 running gear (blue one in the pics). Has anybody done a similar build? If so any advice and pointers appreciated.

I'm mid way through installing a completely rebuilt GSXR750L (long stroke 116BHP) motor into my 1990 GSX600F with a view of sorting it's lack of grunt! teapots are a bit of a maligned marmite bike in my opinion. Dr Jon on here has installed an 1100F motor in his and that would almost certainly improve the grunt of any teapot!

Will do, many thanks!

Will carbs off of an 1986 GSXR750 work on my 1990 long stroke 750L motor? I'm struggling to find a set of decent 34mm or 36mm carbs to use and have found these?

Where's the best place to buy a full set of new standard bore size piston rings for my 1990 750L please?

Ah! Just had an Eureka moment..... should I have gotten hold of a GSXR750L CDI then? I used the old 600F one, maybe that's the issue??

The plugs were brand new and the CDI was known as working on the old 600 lump but I guess it could have gone bad during the 750 transplant somehow?? I've chucked the bike under a cover now and intend to sell the 750 motor, the carbs and pipe and start again with a known running motor another time along with new coils, new leads decent carbs and now by the sounds of it a CDI! It's no wonder there's always abandoned projects up for sale, it's not an easy or cheap job by any stretch of the imagination! Teapot/GSXR parts anybody?? :-)

Well I shoved the bike to back of the garage and chucked a cover over it so I don't have to deal with it anymore! I think me and the Suzook need a little "space" :-) I tried everything you suggested and here's my conclusions A) carbs are deffo fubar! The slides do not want to move, despite all diaphragms being in good nick? B) The plugs spark (weakly outside of the cylinders) on all four pots but clearly are no longer firing inside the cylinders, despite initially backfiring when I first tried to fire the bike up after the motor went in? I think therefore I need new coils, new leads plus HT caps (the plugs were brand new anyway) and a set of known working carbs and probably a known to be working replacement motor?? So, I can't fund all of this just yet but I'll try and recoup some green by selling the fooked carbs and motor on as spares or repair and maybe revisit the project a little later. It's really knarked me off having got so very close to finishing it and it's in stark contrast to how your motor swap went so well! :-) I just wished I hadn't sunk so much cash into all the other new bits and pieces foolishly thinking it'd all come together! I have thought about selling the lot on including the 600 motor but I doubt it'd make much more than £600 and it probably owes me at least double that! Ouch!!

Well once again zip, nothing, nowt. I think the carbs must be fooked, even though they appear clean and in good order? I took the plugs out and they are all still sparking and they still appear dry so has to be the carbs I guess?

I've def got the fuel feed right, on mine there are two inlets between each float bowl and the breathers are at the top. I tried again with the airbox on and still zilch :-( I've just stripped and cleaned the carbs and reset the floats for the zillionth time and am going to give it one last go before chucking a sheet over the whole bike and listing it on a popular auction site as an "unfinished project" :-)

Ok,I'll give that a try. Yes I've blocked off the vacuum take off on the carb but there's no airbox in place at the moment as I wanted to check it ran before wrestling it into place! Do you think I need to fit that before the WD40 idea? What about just squirting some neat fuel into the intakes as the motor spins, would that work??

Right, coils and HT leads are wired correctly, if I swap about the LT leads, still nothing? I checked each plug and each HT lead suppressor cap and have a spark on all four plugs, albeit not a brilliant fat blue spark but it is blue! Battery is brand new and fully charged and the bike bike is turning over plenty fast enough. All four plugs still don't appear to be wet with fuel, maybe a very slight oiling if anything, which must point back to the carbs or maybe the motor just doesn't have enough suction due to poor compression? Unfortunately I've not got a compression tester to confirm. All I know is that when the palm of my hand is over either carb inlet there's definitely suction and I get fuel over my hand from the pilot holes at the bottom of the carbs mouth. There's also pressure but less so at the exhaust. It's almost as if the carbs aren't quite sucking the fuel up and into the motor? I'm currently using an auxillary petrol tank and not the bikes tank and hence no vacuum connected to top of carb #3 (I think this is the correct take off). Is this likely to have an effect on it not drawing fuel through or is it back to stripping the carbs again? Help needed!! :-)

Thanks for your reply that all sounds a lot more promising! To confirm, when sitting on the bike, cylinders run left to right, so I have the left coil with the HT leads running to #1 and #4 pot and the right coil running to #2 and #3 and swap the LT leads (not the orange ones) with each other ie coil on the left with coil on the right? I'm not 100% sure how you set up the static timing, I assumed it was fixed? Yesterday I re gapped all of the valves and erred on the maximum so they are all now 0.15mm inlet and 0.23mm exhaust, I set them so the feeler gauge just dragged through the gap. I then checked the cam marks numbered 1, 2, 3 etc. and the arrows were all in the right place in relation to the timing mark T and the ignition stator. I also counted the pins on the cam chain between the cam wheels and checked they were 21 as per the manual to rule out the chain maybe having have slipped? I really don't want to have to take off the cam cover again as I've already stripped one of the cam retaining nuts and bodged it back in with solder wire to get a bit of torque. Fortunately it's one of the middle ones so hopefully the rest will hold the cam cover down securely. It'll be a real shame if I have to pull this motor out of the bike and start over as it's been a right bloody pain getting in there to begin with and I stopped counting how much money I've spent since on bearings, tyres, chain and sprockets, looms and batteries etc. not to mention paint and time! I've still got to source a large bore silencer with an inlet of 75mm and a few other niggly jobs but apart from getting it to run, I thought I was in the home straight! :-(

Well, checked cam timing, valve gaps still no go :-( Put fuel directly into cylinders through plug hole and just got a dirty great big flame out of the exhaust! If I put my hand across each carb inlet I get good suction and my hand gets with fuel via the pilot holes but plugs still seem dry when I pull them from the head? Could it be blocked starter jet/choke or maybe float issues, nothing glaringly obvious showed when I stripped the carbs though and all float levels seemed ok and float valve seems to shut off when I blow through the fuel line. Am I right in thinking that if the valves were totally goosed or burnt then I'd get no suction or exhaust blow? Miffed having got thisfar with the project only to find the motor might be a dud :-(

Coils are all wired correct, sitting on the bike the left coil HT leads go to 1 and 4 and the left to 2 and three, spark at all four plugs when pulled from cylinder but plugs feel dry. Squirted a syringe of petrol into each carb intake whilst moving the slides with my finger and twisting the throttle. When I tried to start it, nothing but a massive flame shot out of the exhaust! I'm hoping the carbs are the problem but not sure why they'd not suck in fuel unless the valves are goosed? Wondered about ignition timing but not 100% on how you check it on a 750L motor?? Back up plan I'm thinking is use the old 600F motor and maybe use the BS36SS carbs and inlet rubbers and maybe the cams from the 750L, might have a bit more oomph??

Bit of an update, carbs are now in the inlet rubbers and everything is connected and good to go, however I have "suck", "squeeze" and "blow" but no bang! There's a good spark at the plugs and if I put my hand over each open carb when cranking it over I can feel good suction, likewise hand over the exhaust also has pressure. When I whip any of the plugs out they still look very clean and almost dry but you can smell engine oil but not petrol. I've stripped the carbs and there's no blockage in the mains or the pilots and the floats are all level and appear to work when you blow through the fuel hose whilst tipping the carbs you can feel them sealing. I bought this engine with no history of it running and took a chance, I'm now wondering if maybe the valves are furbar? Just because I can feel pressure at the carb mouths and the exhaust doesn't guarantee good strong pressure in the cylinders right? I'm hoping it's something really simple and to do with the carbs but I'm not 100% to be honest? I'm using a remote fuel cannister hooked up to the carbs rather than the tank and wondered if that had any bearing on it as there would be no vacuum. The carbs are Mikuni BS36SS and I could also do with a schematic on how the fuel line connects. Currently I have a "Y" splitter and two hoses going to the inlet spigots between the float bowls and I'm assuming the two other spigots at the top of the carbs are breathers? Advise greatly appreciated otherwise the old 600 lump is going back in or I'm bailing and selling it on! :-)

Sorted the clutch actuator, removed a few engine mounts, dropped the motor, repositioned it and job done! Biggest problem is that in my over keen desire to sort it I over tightened three clutch cover bolts and stripped the threads! They're at the top and I hold my hands up and confess I bodged it by using soldering iron cut and shoved in the stripped out holes and thread lock on the bolts, they all nipped up and there was plenty of torque, so I'm leaving them until I can be bothered to helicoil them and fix them properly! The next issue I've encountered is the 750 oil cooler is taller than the outgoing 600F one and I can't make use of the original oil cooler bottom frame mounted brackets for additional support. Short term, two large cable ties will have to suffice until I can come up with a permanent solution. I'm concerned also that the bottom of the cooler may foul the headers? The next big hurdle is getting the carbs into the rubbers, blimey they're tight! It looks also like the 600F throttle cable and choke cable doesn't want to play with the 36mm carbs I have for the motor? priority now is getting the thing running as to date I've still no idea whether it actually runs! It all turns over freely and the oil was clean and apart from gapping the valves I'm on a wing and a prayer! :-)

Well that's how mine looked but it did nothing? I think I need to take it off completely and position it at 12 o'clock (as per pic) and then when it's connected to the cable and under tension, hopefully it'll work! :-)

Well after careful use of a trolley jack, a large rolled up duvet, several axle stands and much swearing I managed to fit my GSXR750L motor into my 600 teapot all by myself! I was properly chuffed until I realised I had not fitted the clutch actuator to the splined output shaft which is very tight fit and close to the frame rail! There was no obvious way to just put on as you would if this motor was in the correct GSXR frame without dropping the motor a fraction? I decided to remove the clutch cover (a nightmare in itself as this also fouls the frame where the cable adjuster mount fits) which allowed me to slip the actuator lever onto the splined shaft. The cable adjuster virtually touches the inside of the frame so adjustment is virtually non existent. Anyway, I put it all back together and the actuator lever moved outwards as I fitted the clutch cover and now there's not enough "throw" to pull the lever! I'm going to have to drop the motor in the frame and reposition the lever to allow it to operate but I'm not sure how it sits in relation to the adjuster, or if it will even work without being able to wind out the adjuster? All in all it's turning into a right nightmare! The 750L motor is not the best choice for this transplant and I'd have been better off with a motor where the clutch operates on the other side via a pushrod like on the original teapot motor. I hope I can sort it otherwise the project will grind to a halt! I can't find any reference on here or the internet as to how the actuator lever sits in relation the the cable mount on top of the crankcase/clutch cover? Mine has the dimple in the middle of the clutch cover as on the 750J slingshot motor, not an easy swap :-(

Stupid question, but is it better to set the gaps to the minimum setting or the maximum? Am I right in thinking if I set them to the minimum that the motor will run quieter but if I set them to the maximum setting it may sound more "tappety" but as the valves wear the gaps will get smaller and hence quieter? Also as an aside I've turned the motor backwards a few times when measuring the gaps, albeit slowly, am I likely to have caused any damage, as far as I can see the chain never skipped any teeth but I've read it's a big no, no to turn any motor backwards as it can cause damage??

Excellent! Many thanks, from what I've gleened from the internet the L model was considered the best, so I'm happy with that. Hopefully this motor will propel the lard arse 600 teapot a bit quicker than the outgoing 600F lump :-) Just got find somewhere to get those tiny springs that fit under the carb linkages and put it all together now!

Well, I decided to adjust the valves on my motor today and it definitely has not got shims? It has lock nuts just like on my 600F teapot motor, the engine number apparently says it's a 750M but if the adjusters are lock nut, it can't be right? Is it maybe an earlier motor from a slab side?? Thing is the clutch actuator is on the right and there's a dimple in the clutch cover, plus it's a 749cc motor so definitely not a short stroke J motor, any ideas and also are the valve adjustment gaps the same as quoted earlier? Thanks in advance :-)