SlingshotSteve

I've had a few gsfs and gsxrs and I want to build one more, but I want the best handling possible, I want to avoid the b12 frame obviously and I don't like the slabside frame as much as the slingshot so which oil cooled slingshot 750/1110 frame is best for this? It's going to be either an 1127 or 1157 oil cooled motor, probably the 1157 as I've got a nice low mileage engine. Which is going to be best for handling? And which year/model?

Thanks for the replies. All sorted now. I've blocked off one side of the tap by leave 2 inch of fuel line in place, putting a bolt in and then fitting a hose clamp. I went to my local bike shop and they gave me some fuel line for free. I've ran one single line from the other side of the tap to the carb. The fuel line they gave me was thinner that the original one, quite similar in thickness to one the one that was kinking. But this line is lots better, as shown in the pic below, if I bend it tightly it will not kink at all. The main problem that's caused this has been poor quality fuel line. Any bend above 30 degrees would be enough for the line to give up and kink. Markfoggy, thanks for the big reply, but I didn't get to read it until after I had sorted my bike.

Looking at the picture, the one on the right would be the best one as the out let points away from the tap in the correct direction whereas the left one comes out 90 degrees the other way. I can probably run one line from the right side straight to the carb in a nice smooth run.

I could do with a bit of advice with my slingshot. It's an 1100k with bandit 1200 engine and carbs. The carbs have a single inlet for the fuel line and the fuel tap has a twin outlet. I've been out and bought a plastic T piece and some extra line. I've used the existing fuel line to go to the carb and used the new line to go to each of the fuel tap outlets. When I'm putting the tank in place the lines are getting crushed and it's cutting off the fuel. The extra fuel line I've bought has the same inner diameter as the old one but a thinner outer which is causing it to nip. The bike won't run unless I remove the riders seat, remove the 2 tank bolts and lift the tank 2 inch up in the air to uncrush the lines. Its tight as hell for room under there, so I'm wondering what's the best way round this problem. I think first I need to get some more thicker fuel line, so it won't kink as easily, but thicker line is going to cause even more problems with the tight space. So I'm wondering, do I actually need to use both the outlets from the gsxr tap? It would make life easier if I only needed one, the bandit I ripped apart as a donor only had a single outlet on the fuel tap. If this is the best thing to do, what's the best way of blocking off one of the fuel tap outlets? Or will it be better with the set up as it is but with thicker fuel line that won't kink?

Last year in June it was about £450 to get my van on the ferry, and that was just the ferry crossing. Then in December I went to the canaries, got a week all inclusive for 2 of us, under £500 all in, it makes you think. Every year I say it's the last TT and everytime once I get the buzz of being there I rebook again and go back.

I've done the TT for the last 6 years, and for me and the missus and 2 bikes in a van on the ferry plus camping and food and beer costs me well over £1000. I so want to do the classic TT but it's so close to the main TT so I can't afford to do both. One day I'll get to it. It does look just as good if not better than the TT.

that's got me thinking, I have a bandit 1200 hugger in my garage, that might go on with a little work

thanks for the tip off, I will get in touch with him

Cheers I think I can see the cdi down next to the battery, I will have to find myself a hugger at some point.

both for gsxr 1100 K model 1 where is the cdi box located? If someone can tell me it will save me pulling all the rear bodywork off looking for it 2 did they all come with a hugger as standard? Or did any come with a chain guard only?

It turned out to be the throttle cable. I had just done what fatblokebandit said and took the throttle cable off at the handlebar, I then fired up the bike and it's ticking over nicely now. Also I had forgot to running a rubber pipe from the rocker cover to the airbox. The gsxr 1100 throttle cable was too short for the bandit carbs, so I used the bandit cable, this was a tiny bit tight. There was no adjustment left to slacken in, so I filed a few mm from the plastic throttle tube which now allows the throttle to go further forward giving me just a nice amount of slack. I got a few pics, but I will later start a project thread for the bike and put them in there.

Good pics, that looks a top event to attend.

Yep I have got plenty of ideas to try cheers for all the input.

On a bandit 1200 I had years ago, I got a 3bhp gain at the top end with clamp on filters, but it spoiled how the bike ran. It ran so much better with the normal airbox in place.

I have done a big change, but the engine and carbs haven't been messed with. I've done a bandit engine to gsxr before and had no problems as it's just engine in and out. The thing that's on my mind the most is whether the gsxr thottle cable works ok with bandit carbs. If it was slightly too tight that would cause my problem.

It's always a puzzle when something's spot on and then changes for no obvious reason.

Possibly yes but it was ok before. What I need to do is take it somewhere and let it run a while and see if it settles. It's proper loud and echoing in the garage so I can't let it ticker over for long at home. I need to let it warm up for 5 mins and then try turning the screw and see what happens. I need to go and take it to an industrial estate or somewhere out of the way. I also should check that the gsxr throttle cable isn't pulling the bandit carb open slightly.

I bought a bandit 1200 ages ago and it was running ok. I broke it up and I've put the engine in a slingshot frame. The engine hasn't been ran properly in over a year. I went to fire it up today and it wasn't starting, I know people who frown upon it but I gave the airbox a squirt with easy start and it started straight up. Now it's back to life it's firing up first go every time, but it's ticking over at well over 3000 rpm, it's proper screaming it's nuts off even with the choke off. I think the best way to describe it, it's like the choke is on full all the time. Would anyone have an idea what's causing this?