richyrich
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Posts posted by richyrich
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right FBOAB nice one geezer that is a good approach to the problem, find a white gsf6 rear wheel . can oss confirm that gsxf6, sv6, rf6 are the same axle and rim size ? ie 20mm and 4.5 inch. following on from this, is there another front wheel with the 20mm (i think) gsxr7 slingshot axle . indeed other marques with these dimensions to get a matched pair......
the problem wit painting FBOAB is, it takes frickin ages to get a good finish, and it still wont be as good as a powdercoat, which both cost money and time, and im all about the cheapness unfortunately
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How can i get a gsxf750 rear wheel with a 17mm diameter axle to sit happily in a b12 swingarm that usually has a 20mm axle. Maybe use its own spacers . Or would it be better to use the b12 axle and a different bearing , if such a thing exists . Anyone have any good ideas ?
Similarly the gsxf front wheel has a 15mm axle and I want it to go in the 1990 750 forks that usually has 20mm axle.
I'm trying to achieve matched colour wheels and slim down the back to get better chain clearance and maybe even fit a 530 chain for longevity. There's some gsxf wheels up cheap.
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http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/404
That link is frankensteins guide to oil cooled from original site , well worth a read , discusses all manner of hybrid possibilities. It's also possible to go big bore with eg zx10 2004 pistons
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Where did you shorten it , triple check all those wire colours match, all the circuits still made, Is there volts going into coil , tell us how it goes
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I don't think the one you took out is standard , it's very cylindrical and not tapered . I took out what I think was a dynojet kit and put back to stock , needed a new emulsion tube to work with the stock needle
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Or get a more recent complete b6 or 12 loom and the switchgear , no oxidised wires and a smart finish
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Good stuff lads , I knew someone would know for sure
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just totalled the gsf600 forks thats in it , not sure what the stem was tho . be a dream if i can go usd , anyone know ? its said the gsxr wn goes straight in, i feel the L/M could be the same
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I've kn dual pods on bst38 on 750L. Replaced needle and emulsion tube with standard and used 140 main jet in suzuki sizes . Goes well and plugs look good, 45 mpg
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Isn't there an article about this in the articles sectoin
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The genuine ones for gsf 12 all seem to have this long unthreaded shoulder on them that's the trouble, I think the carrier s been machined down . When I do the sprocket I'll take pics
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Mine were the suzuki ones with cheese shaped head but threaded nearly all the way down. The only replacements I can find have a very long shoulder so are no good. It's a b12 wheel and presumably carrier is to, with six bolts. I've been filing down normal hex heads to fit, but what is the proper one anyone know ?
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Isn't it that a 750LM has a cam for each valve and its own rocker arm . Whereas the b6 has a cam for each pair of valves which share a forked rocker .
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right the bleedin circlips thas what i mean not the pins, replace them . gonna do the valve stem oil seels, head gasket. my cams are heavily worn, is it likely the followers and al those bits are half knackered too. is it expensive to get them , can you get them new, probably just put it all back together as is. should i be doing anuthing else whilst the head is off
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This would be the second time I ve had those pistons off. Can i get away using them again , they dont look like they do much . The third time th heads been off since I've had it, I'm thinking it deserves a new gasket . but is it really necessary? What do people think ....
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Captain I don't think it's the sprocket , surely that would've made a racket coming off , anyway I've packed it off in the recovery truck to my yard so can't check.
Jonny ur gearbox thread is well above my pay grade . I was briefly thinking it was the selector fork or something I can access engine in with the clutch out.
But the simplest solution is engine swap . I have a b6 and b12 , probably gonna put the 750 top end on the b6. The b12 is bolted into somethinge else and unknown, the b6 I know is good and is loose in a corner.
Seeing the wreckage will have to wait till I'm back on the road .
Cheers guys
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Anyone have any ideas what broke ?
I changed gear and something went snap . It still runs but there's no power thru the gearbox. It makes a whirring noise when in gear and changes into neutral easy . Accidently rolled it forward in gear and it sounded crunchy .
Broke down ten min from home , the other side of the hill fml
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i think in the region of 135 to 145 standard mikuni sizes . standard proviso; every motor is diferent , you can expect to need to get it set up on a dyno for best results. in search reslts somewhere is a factorypro article on how to tune mikuni carb , can be found on google easily to
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wiring
in Oil Cooled
Yeh all the oil cooled looms are pretty much the same. but keep original cdi and maybe ignition rotor . Depending on year the connectors will be different. I think if u use the search button u will find this topic covered in depth
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Nice one crass
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I think mines leaking like a tory mps an us . Is it easy to fix on a 750L ? Anyone know what size seal I should ask a seal factor for ?
Cheers
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Do you think it's flooding, will it fire up again after the throttle kills it, are the float valves right ?
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Thanks guys, remake the cams ! Great idea, they could do them for less lift or whatever it is to give more midrange . Without taking the motor out again . Read that In theory I could fill the cylinder with string thru plug hole to hold the valves and remove the valve guide seals with engine in, sounds like so much bollix. Anyone know how tight they're in there ?
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What options are there to replace cams ? Mine are horribly pitted , what about the followers and the rest of the bits down there.
Is it a big job to change valve stem oil seals, what's involved ?
I can't get the head off in the gs550 frame , it'd be easier to get another 3ngine maybe. Handily I have a b12 lump, but no carbs or exhaust.
My bst38 s have that oval is ed tube thing and it runs really rich . Better to spend and fix them or start again with 36s . It's all relaxed road riding.
It's doing well, but where to go next, cos its hard to keep enough oil in it ! Something is gonna change whether I like it or not I get the feeling.
What do you guys think is best bang for buck with minimum hassle
Cheers
Running on two, its not the coils huh?
in Air Cooled
Posted · Edited by richyrich
Hi guys , I've a new to me gsx750e so I guess I'm allowed in here now ...
Fifty miles down the road from the guy I bought it off , I lost 1 and 4 . The next day starting cold it was all four , so i fugured the coil breaks down when hot.
I've just changed the coils and it's still only 2 and 3 running.
What's next ? Can we get new cdis ? The loom looks good for the ignition circuit at least . How can I test the low tension going into the coils ?
Help me keep this dinosaur on the road !