MikeyVeitch

Right. Don’t ask because I actually don’t know. I put the 145s back in and the bike now runs like a rocket ship. Slightly lean in fact so I might go for a 155 because that’s what everyone recommends. I don’t change anything else about the carbs. Cyl 4 is getting more fuel for some reason but at this point it’s doing 145mph no stress and I feel like it’s got more to give. Fixed by god I guess. Should I go for the 155 jets or just leave it as is?

Carbs are in perfect condition. Basically have nee everything. I was also trying to read the spark after idling so that may be m issue

In terms as to how I read the plugs, if I go up to a 145 the plugs go sooty and black where as with the 130, they stay clean

I read of people jetting the big 5 speed engines saying that 140-160 is the place to be but when I run a jet as big as that, it constantly fouls my plugs.

Forgot to mention that sorry. K&N dual pod filters

So I found the electrical problem with the bike constantly fucking up new plugs with death by internal ground. It was the carbs 1127 lump b12 mk1 bst36ss carbs and a high flow full custom exhaust If I read the spark plugs. A 145 main jet needle all the way down is rich A 130 main jet with the needle all the way down is slightly lean A 130 main jet with the needle clip in the middle is perfect So why does it run perfect on a 145 but fuck the plugs after 15 minutes but on the good setup with the raised needles and a 130 jet, it will sputter at 4K and just fucking gives up at 6K. I am truly lost now and don’t know witch way I should be looking any replies would be greatly appreciated because at this point, I feel like shooting myself

Putting a new harness on tonight. I’ve just installed a set of ngk dpr8ae9 plugs and even just on startup it runs better than when I put new jr9b plugs in it. The test is run it, leave it a day, see if it still runs. Previously when I’ve put new plugs in it runs for a day and then they’re fucked

Same as the other stuff pal. Tried the one off the katana750. Was a cunt to change over but still made no difference

I’ve used original ones off the bike, bandit 1200 ones, kat750 ones and got some brand new genuine Suzuki ones. Still no start

Defo spark mate. I am using b12 mk1 carbs and a kat750 with the same carbs. Swapped the carbs over and the katana still rand and the 1100 still doesn’t. I have crossed everything between the two bikes apart from the harness and the plugs because they are different. The katana never stopped running and the 1100 never started meaning of I’ve ruled it down to those two things

UPDATE: I think I’m starting to narrow down the problem. when the bike was running, it had a mismatch of plugs. I tried one of the old plugs and whatever cylinder I put it in, it works. The old plugs is an NGK DPR8EA-9 and the new ones I’m trying are JR9B. I’ve just put another set of the new ones in and the same happened again. It runs on all 4 for a couple minutes and they drop off one at a time until the bike no longer goes bang at all. Do you think that I would try a new set of the DPRs?

Tried 3 cdis. One is from this bike, one that I had spare and the last being from another healthy running bike.

Got 2 new sets, one old set and a working set from a katana. None work on this

Both have been sprayed but the ground areas have been cleaned. Both are grounded direct to the battery with nee cables.

Yes. Everything to do with electrical on the bike has been replaced. Plugs coils caps stator/pulse generator. Waiting on a new harness to try but I think it will make fuck all difference

Bandit 6 frame but with 1127 gsxr everything (coils plugs engine carbs harness cooler clutch switchgear exhaust) I found the problem with my bike not starting… but how do I fix it? If I hold a spark plug in the ht lead, it arks to the frame. I know it’s a strong spark because because one, it’s fucking big. Two, it’s fucking blue and three, it’s arking a good 2cm. All seems well. When I actually ground the spark plug body against the frame. No ark. If I hold it against the engine. No ark. The coils are connected correctly as per the wiring diagram. Even then, I’ve tried the wires every way around. Any reasons as to why the spark plugs would behave in this way?

I’ll try a bit of brake cleaner tonight. The confusion to me is that I’m certain it’s wired correctly because I just started it and it ran 10000% perfect. But now when I try to start it it’s just cranking over. Probably a fuelling issue.

Tank has been completely flushed. Carbs have been professionally restored. new spark plugs and coils wired in and plugged in correctly. Stator is working as it should. exhaust has no blockage. Engine ground cables have been replaced. Ignition barrel has not been replaced since well before the problems started.

Yeah new plugs are getting wet Nothing wrong with the carbs balanced them last time it was running but I’ve got 45 pilots 145 main jets mikuni bst36 carbs, k&n pod filters and an 1127cc block

Got new plugs today still no luck

I can’t get my 1100 swapped bandit to start. Just to start I’d say there’s nothing wrong with the motor. Because it was running lovely 2 hours ago. CDI is good. coils are wired in correctly. got fuel. got spark. Turns over more than fast enough. Just no bang Honestly any suggestion would be a great help because I really have no clue anymore. Some days I press the button and it starts. Some days I have to bump start it. Some days that won’t even work.

So I have just finished my bandit rebuild with a 1127 motor. I started it up for a test run before I put all the body work back together and when admiring my new pie cut exhaust, I noticed that it had a bit (a lot) of oil. Thinking back to when I had changed the sump, the engine was sat basically upside-down for a couple of days. My question is, would this have caused oil to leak into the cylinders? I don’t think that it is stem seals, gaskets or anything of that nature because I have found oil in all 4 downpipes and the engine id from another bike of mine that is no longer on the road and it ran perfectly, low mileage, never skipped a beat. Any reply’s would be heatedly appreciated.

Not personally done it myself and to start I’d like to say I’ve only seen this on fork swapped bikes though the same could possibly be achieved with a fork mount for whatever bandit you have. A lot of people I have seen do this have used a bracket built off the oil cooler mounts to hold a steering damper that is sat on the underside of the bottom yoke. I can’t seem to find any manufacturers that make said bracket but I don’t doubt one would be difficult to make. I’m currently building a custom bandit myself and personally I’d just sit it on the side with a frame clamp. Doesn’t look as good but it sure is a lot less of a faff

I have read this also. The only thing that I don’t like about the k1-4 1000 down pipes is the fact that they are not symmetrical. Something like the srad 750 gsxr exhaust would be perfect. Just don’t know if it fits.

Hi guys, me again. I’m building a pretty custom bandit. It’s currently got an 1127 engine and I’m looking for en exhaust to fit. The obvious answer is to change the sump and put the standard bandit 1200 pipes on it but that’s just not me. I like the look of the 1100 exhaust but can’t buy a new manifold without selling my soul. There are some pretty reasonably priced gsx1400 exhausts out there and was wondering, would one fit on a bandit. Any reply’s would be greatly appreciated. I’ll be back soon, just gotta go rip some more hair out.