Baron
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Posts posted by Baron
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3 hours ago, peter1127 said:
Bought the scavenge bit from Tomaz too 2 weeks ago, just got delivered. Looks and fits good, didnt run it yet. I understood he had health issues compromising delivery this summer. Cant speak for other cases but he responded me swiftly on messenger and I got my stuff quickly.
Damn, you were lucky one!
I ordered mine on 5th of july and he sent it on 18th of september. During that time he responded 3 times that it has been sent, but never provided tracking code. That was very strange behavior.
Communication with him is very minimal, sometimes it would take him a month to send response to your message.
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On 10/2/2023 at 1:12 PM, Pegleg said:
Yes is a Blandit. Couldn't tell you what pump it is, came with the kit
You can hear the fuel returning to the tank. Malpassi FPR is plumbed as: Pump feeds FPR. FPR to carbs. Return to the tank via modified guage sender. Boost reference to carb top. Tried the pump pressure at 3 psi, same symptoms. 
You need to take boost reference from pitot tube. This same pitot will also provide air to float bowls.
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I got my main oil cooler under the seat and head cooler next to downpipe. Head cooler was a must, because otherwise I couldnt get oil temps below 110C while driving, even when fans were on. Airflow is restricted, so it wont cool down. Need to make some kind of air deflector during winter time to get better perfomance out from it.
Head cooler is small "SETRAB STD 110" with 12V SPAL fan on it. Now when Im driving, oil temps are ~80C and I still have possibility to start the fan.
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I also used car engine stand and welded some arms to hold the engine.
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Why do you think that you got too much oil flow?
How is your turbo oil return made?
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I'm getting many left over parts for "lower boost application" and I have a spare teapot engine and slingy frame.
I was wondering how much power/boost can that thing take? I know the weakest link is helical primary gear which goes kaput.
Also is there a cheap way/how to make clutch hold more horses without lockup? Plan is to make a "cheap build" and with mild boost.
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Thanks for the reply.
I ordered some J-B High Heat Epoxy Putty and will try that.
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Has anyone found a working method to fix this kind of damage?
So I'm having a massive leak from choke circuit pipe on third carb.
I tried to fix it with Permatex steel weld, but it couldn't withstand temperatures and became soft after a day.
Advices and ideas needed...
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Finally I had a chance to go for a test drive after fixing some gasoline leak from choke circuit pipe...
0.5bar wastegate spring installed.
AFR numbers are still a little bit off:
~2k idle 14-14.5 afr
~3-4k cruising very low throttle 50-80kmh 14-16 afr
When I go WOT from 4k, I get 10 afr between 4.5k and 5.5k and after that it's pretty nicely 11.5 - 12.5 afr. Something to do with boost transition?Carbs are now:
Mixture screw 2.5 turns out (stock size)
Needle on 3th from top (stock needle)
Mainjets 135-
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What should I adjust, a step bigger main jets?
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I got new configuration from Ignitech and they changed the firing order which fixed the issue. God I love their support!
Below is pic how it's setup now.
Took her out to get some sun
I'm getting a little afraid of the oil temps... When I'm cruising 50kmh on third gear, oil temp is 104C. Also when im cruising on highway 80kmh, oil temp is still 104C. When I stop, then temperature rises immediately to 120C which is max on my gauge. Cooling fans are running constantly. Oil lines and cooler is hot, so there should be some heat to be transfered.
I have my temp sensor installed on the cam plug which got hole drilled all the way through. I didn't have temperature gauge before, so I can't know what the temps were before installing cooler in the back.
Could this be related to a bit lean mixture? When I'm cruising 50kmh afr is 15.5 and on 80kmh afr is 16. I didn't check yet what afr I'm getting on boost.
Idle afr is spot on 14.
I got 130 main jets and stock pilot jets on blandit BST36 carbs.
I'm not sure if airflow to cooler is too restrictive...
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It has never ran with this configuration. I'm running with the settings that I got from ignitech which are made for 1100GSXR with TPS.
I will also send message for them to verify operation of my unit...
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I'm now having some problems with starting her... So I'm using Ignitech racing 3 and she is not running - at all. All I get is pops and bangs out from the exhaust.
Wiring should be OK.
- I get signal from pick-up.
- When I'm firing individual plugs:
-> cylinder 1 fires 1+4
-> cylinder 2 fires 2+3
-> cylinder 3 fires 3+2
-> cylinder 4 fires 4+1. Plug 4 is installed on the pick-up side of the engine.
- Plugs are stock JR9B, stock coils, stock plug caps.
- Plugs are wet and spark is nice blue.
- Carbs are rebuilt with new float valves, gaskets, etc...no luck...
Below is a some pics of my setup.
Any good tips for troubleshooting?
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16 hours ago, Jdeac said:
This is the last post i can see on face ache
Well, he said said on whatsapp that package is sent on 14th of july.
If you have health problems, that doesn't justify to lie about sending the order. It has been a month now, so I'm pretty sure that it hasn't been sent.
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I just cant understand this fella...
Today I contacted his another email address "darkstyx@wp.pl". We started chitchatting and confirmed that he is the same guy as "TOP BIKE Performance". Then I asked about status of my order and all I got was "ok".
Any help where I could ask for mechanical pump?
Another route is to go with electrical pump, which I dont personally like....
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Is there anyone else that have ordered this scavenger pump from polish guy "TOP BIKE Performance" +48 505 800 197?
I'm wondering what was your shipping times?
It's now been 3 weeks since this guy messaged me that he has sent it and I still haven't received it. He was never able to provide a tracking code even though I asked many times.
Poland shouldn't be that far from Finland.
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What is the reasonable rev limiter for 1100 shim head to prevent spitting? Stock is 10,500 if im not mistaken.
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Decided to go with these pistons with 2x 0.5mm copper base gasket and 2mm steel spacer. Compression ratio should be around 8.5.
Got everything installed and painted it some VHT GM satin black engine enamel. Very nice finish and I can highly recommend that stuff.
Made full wiring loom with ignitech racing 3 ECU and installed oil cooler under the seat. Cooler fans are noctua 140mm IP65 PC fans.
Lets hope it gets enough airflow...
Front of the engine got the smallest FMIC intercooler. It's a tight fit.
I'm just waiting for is mechanical scavenge pump before test run...
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On 7/4/2023 at 7:48 PM, Duckndive said:
+48 505 800 197
Thanks! Got in touch with him and ordered one pump.
Is the turbo drain sump and check valves needed?
I currently don't have those since I'm running proboost td05 kit on 1100M.
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On 7/3/2023 at 1:32 PM, Duckndive said:
There's a polish guy on faceache that does them
Tomasz Piotrowicz
Could you or someone ask him for email address? I dont have faceache account and im not making one.
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27 minutes ago, Pegleg said:
Can you make me one @Gsxrsam
My first dabble in turbos on a bike so keeping costs down for now. Made the mistake of putting a bigger turbo on my van
Now I'm addicted. Slipperyslope. Love low end torque.
I'd also like to get one if you are making them
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How about newer gsxr 1000 exhausts? You need to pull them apart a bit and they will hang a bit lower than stock.
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On 9/26/2022 at 11:51 PM, Fredrik_Steen said:
I torque to 50-55 ft lbs lubed (depending on the feel in the handle) you can't use the oem washers Steel and copper. They are to soft and you will loose tension. Buy special hardened washers
I'm also going to put APE studs on mine, where can you get those hardened washers?
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I found a supplier for piston rings. They are 1mm + 1mm + 2mm and wiseco product code is 3189XG.
I got a photo of piston which is presumably from stock 1127. Distance between top of the piston pin to top of the piston is 16.85mm and on wiseco this distance is 19.90mm.
I was told that these wisecos are "low comp pistons", but I started measuring them and seems like they are something else...
I would need help to choose rods which will go with these pistons.
Busa rods:
Pros: stronger
Cons: 2,5mm longer
Does the engine case/rod bolt need grinding?WC Rods:
Pros: ?
Cons: ?
Does the engine case/rod bolt need grinding?Stock rods:
Pros: budget
Cons: durability? Up to what hp?Carrillo:
Pros: durability
Cons: expensive
Does the engine case/rod bolt need grinding?
Also I would need some opinions which engine should I go forward with...I have 1991 R 1100 engine and 1100 F engine, both are running and working.
Scavenge Pump,what you using?
in Forced Induction
Posted
Yes I finally did, delivery took 2 weeks.