Naim

Is it possible that after cam swap I'm observing erratic idle? Approx. +/- 150 rpm. List of things done already: - 4⁰ ignition advancer - Mikuni RS36 flats + 4xAPE filters - GSXR 750 Cams - Pingel fuel tap Carbs are brand new and synched. I can't tell if idle issue started after synch or cam swap coz both had been carried simultaneously.

Thanks a lot guys! I was a bit concerned after changing clutch pads that high temperature was causing it to slip but most probably it was crappy EBC pads. I got the OEM set now and it seems to be a lot better :-)

I have a gauge on clutch cover. I already checked it in boiling water, readings are quite accurate.

Anyone can tell me what's the safe operating oil temperature? Readings on my 1200 Zuma as follows: - 90-95 dgrs celsius when very delicate with throttle. - 115 dgrs when I push it hard (today outside was around 12 dgrs - 110 dgrs when I let it idle for around 20-30min. 12 dgrs outside also Do you think that these values are within standard readings?

I was hoping that the indications were exceeding real temp. values but it stands almost @100 centigrade at boiling point :-(

I bought it from Larsson, it seems decent. But for my own sake maybe I should try putting it into boiling water to verify the indications.

The cooler is original, it looks fine to me. I was considering a HEL performance cooler but still can't figure out the reason for such temp. values.

Has anyone tried TRAC KING pads? https://www.suzukiperformancespares.co.uk/product/trac-king-clutch-gsf1200-bandit-97-to-06/2443/

Motul 5100 10w40 semi

Its quite wierd coz I hadn't even reached 200 km on these pads... I'm also thinking if the temperature rise might be caused by slipping clutch?

I have a never ending story with my Zuma. This time I cannot figure out issue with clutch. I did a overall maintenance on pump and piston i.e. sealants, springs etc. I also changed a brand new EBC plates and clutch pads. When cold everything seems to be ok, afterwards the clutch starts to slip when temperature rises. At first I observed that during gear change with clutch, now I can't even accelerate coz it slips constantly on higher rpms. Another thing is the oil temperature for e.g. today we had around 20-25 dgr cent. outside. The oil temperature oscillated between 110-115 dgr.cent. when ridding moderately.

Finally Pingel assembled. I used hylomar for fiber gasket and loctite for npt thread. I had to do some grinding on tank to fit the fuel valve.

Perfect! Thanks again for help mate. I'll post a pic after assembly :-)

I was just a bit concerned about the Pingel adapter with paper seal instead of rubber as in OEM cock. BTW do u remember which model and adapter type is for your Inazuma. Unfortunately the application chart doesn't include this model.

Hi guys, Finally I managed to fit my RS36 Mikuni's on my Inazuma 1200. I'm still facing some issues, hope for assistance from those more experienced than me:-) 1. At high speed/rpms the fuel feed seems to be a problem, Is this possibile that the fuel cock has unsufficent flow? If so, can anyone recommend a fuel valve that can be used instead of factory one? 2. Another issue is the clutch, I observed that it was slipping from time to time especially when changing gears on high rpms. I decided to change the whole set for EBC pads recommended for sport use. Unfortunately the problem still exists, after using new pads. When changing gears without clutch it doesn't slip. May this be a problem with hydraulic clutch cylinder? 3. Last thing is the oil temperature. I bought one of these termometers that you put intead of oil cap on clutch cover. What are the reasonable temperature values for these engines. I had around 120 centigrade at top, seems a but too high? Cheers

Sorry mate, my fault. I meant Inside diameter.

what do you mean by this?

Two more things came to my mind: My regular CVK's have a trottle position sensor, mikuni's don't...how do I deal with that? Also I have two cables connected to trottle while mikuni's have one cable only.

Thanks mate, I'm waiting for delivery, I'll let you all know how it works. For a time being I still haven't decided how far to go with engine mods. I have decided to buy those mikuni carbs for two reasons...I found them very cheap, 2nd I couldn't deal with my present CVK's.

Inside OD is 40mm.

I have a 40mm gsxr1100 mikuni carb as you can see in the topic :-)

Had anyone bought one of these? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07CYJF1FH/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A2UR5TWQRNTCTM&psc=1 I should be going for geniue and/or aftermarket , just considering it price wise.

Kinda wierd, Over 42mm for 38mm carb?

Another question was supposed to be regarding inlet rubbers. I got the original ones from 1100 with carbs but its rubbish, all cracked. Found this in amazon...but looks nothing like the original https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07CYJF1FH/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A2UR5TWQRNTCTM&psc=1 On the other hand I found these but as per catalogue number they don't match Another question was supposed to be regarding inlet rubbers. I got the original ones from 1100 with carbs but its rubbish, all cracked. Found this in amazon...but looks nothing like the original https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07CYJF1FH/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A2UR5TWQRNTCTM&psc=1 On the other hand I found these but as per catalogue number they don't match https://m.olx.pl/oferta/krociec-gaznika-suzuki-CID5-IDy9Hvi.html#position=1&page=2