mark35gun
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Posts posted by mark35gun
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As @Gixer1460 says, do yourself a favor , start at the beginning, get the carbs ultrasonic cleaned, change all seals, check the float height, emulsion tubes,needles,check slide diaphragms, check carb rubbers, fuel lines and vac line, replace as necessary, clean out the tank, clean out pet cock, fresh clean fuel, as in put the carbs back to a good standard condition and then at least you have a base line to work from.
if the mains have no markings, don't try and guess the size of them, throw them in the bin and buy new, as you won't know what they are and no one else will either.
change the plugs, plug caps, check the cam timing, change the oil and filter before attempting to start basically check everything.
maybe that will fix the non running on one of the cylinders, if it does balance the carbs, check the ignition timing and adjust as per the manual.
for carb balancing it does not matter what mains are in it for balancing.
115 ish mains and 40 pilots is about about right.
looking at the state of it the clutch cable is probably seized.
coils look normal to me, but show them a rag and check connections and make sure they are clean
there isn't a magic fix and guessing won't help, work through it methodically and solve one problem at a time.
oh and ffs give it a wash, and............. an introduction in the general section!
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On 8/22/2020 at 4:05 PM, slabsideB12Kent said:
Driving ban lifted, i've been riding the bike again for a while now (2k miles).
During my driving ban I sonic cleaned the carbs, swapped the needles + springs back to standard (have another modified bike). The bike no longer has the issue of surging due to the original needles and needle springs being refitted. The main jets of the carburettors are not standard. Obviously balanced the carbs when I refitted them.
I still have an issue with difficult cold starting and shaky running under low throttle. If the bikes run in the last few days it will start immediately or quickly. Give it 5 days plus and she just doesn't want to start. Takes around 4 bursts of 10 seconds of starting. When she starts it will backfire on choke and the RPM will jump around on the tachometer. During warming the bike will sometimes bog down from a low throttle. Once up to temperature the bike pulls like a train but at very low throttle positions it jiggles back and forth.
I'm wondering if it's the pilot screws? Possibly the bike is running rich/lean with a closed/partially opened throttle? Otherwise chain and sprockets?
No problem with excess fuel consumption.
Any ideas?
Thanks, Chris
i thought you had removed the dj kit?
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i got mine from dj, you will get them from robinsons
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Pop over to the general section RTFR and introduce yourself properly.
you are more likely to get an answer
Then start a thread and post some pics, we like pics
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probably not, hence the loctite, you might have some success with lapping paste if they are not too far out from each other, the loctite works though, but be aware once cured it won't be easy to get apart again.
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I use loctite high strength retainer, bit of c##t to get undone again though
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An introduction in the general section will help as will RTFR........
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i wouldn't, if they are worn you will end up chasing the fault, stick new ones in pref with new needles, you can ignore them if the fault still exists, you could not really tell mine were worn except with a vernier caliper, but they were, new ones sorted it.
my mixture screws are 2 1/2 out, i would set yours back to factory and go from there, but you won't sort anything if there are leaks from vac tap or carb rubbers,
misfiring? maybe, check plugs leads etc
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Agree, does seem that way, how do you tell the genuine OSS??, maybe the ones that follow the rules,
welcome BTW,
A introduction in the general section and RTFR will loosen a few tongues
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there you go, not called haynes book of lies for nothing
welcome
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no worries, i will get some better pics if you want them
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here ya go
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i am biased towards the earlier bikes, so see these as a donor really, but i think the no faring straight bars style for these suits them very well, but if its very tidy, them maybe leave it alone, it does look it
nice regardless
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its all in the name dude, OSS,
why not try an ad in wanted?, someone may have just what you need, never know till you ask,
BTW, there are several sets on the bay at the moment and some upper and lower plastics for the gs 750 clocks
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@blubber is correct as i remember
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If you want to use them then that's entirely up to you, seems a shame though on a classic suzuki when there are very similar type instruments from the suzuki stable that will fit and work correctly, as @wraith has said the GS L models, are very similar to the ones you like, and not be out of place.
But that as i have said is up to you, you did ask for help in your first post!
Comments are not borne of hate for the other makes, i know what will fit, work correctly and look right IMO only
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EFE, might be ready by then!
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O Dear......
A, because they are hodna,
B, because you said they didn't work
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GS 750 ones?? would be a good start, FFS dont put hodna ones on.
If you cant get any originals something suzuki of a similar age should work, gs 1000, 850, 650, 550, same with early gsx range
post an ad in wanted, i'd be surprised if someone on here hasn't got something suitable
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go ahead, get modifying, and don't forget the turbo
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And RTFR, welcome to OSS
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just had a very similar problem , turned out to be the emusion tubes worn
dj lifetime warranty only covers the needles not the tubes
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i use the same method as Mr wraith, works well , simple and relatively easy
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gsx1100 engines
in Air Cooled
Posted
Aircooled all the way..... for me anyway, i only see the oil boilers as a donor bike......
i'll get me coat......