PanzerWomble
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Posts posted by PanzerWomble
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Anyone know if Squires is still run by Bill ?
Not been there for many a year although used to live a few miles away when it was at Sherburn village still.
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10 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
I can't wait till the day your bike is sorted
Well there are other options ....
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You should already have this but I'll stick it up for reference
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1 hour ago, SATANSAM said:
Thanx a lot man, bike stopped coming back home from work, bike is 1,5.turns and loox like it's drowned in petrol... Yep,.
Drowning in petrol ....running rich ......goddam it .
If it were me I'd set the pilots back to 40 , and try 2 .25 out ( assuming pilot screws are ok at their ends as well ) as a base point . If it were spitting on 40 could be your air leak running a bit lean . Move the screws in and out till you get the highest sustainable idle then turn it back on the knob .
I'd also be tempted to look at 120 mains but TBH they aint the problem for idling .
Needles circlip set on middle position ( there are five) again they aint the problem for idling .
If the carbs aren't being held open mechanically - trapped cables blah blah then it has to be the fueling....in which case back to standard as the only start point .
Your exhaust doesn't look like it needs much more than std jects , and your running the airbox.
No idea why Spanish bikes would be jetted different , Benidorm is about as much as sea level as you can get .
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1 hour ago, TonyGee said:
carbs are generally balanced 1 to 2 then 3 to 4 and then 1&2 to 3&4 . dont know if them carbs are different ?
Having just done the same job Emanual advises..........
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2 hours ago, SATANSAM said:
I WISH...Cable has slang, butterflies snap closed...But I'll make a new cable anyway. On thing I found out riding is the following:
- When I stop at a traffic light 4 example, if I have the idle screw without touching throttle shaft the bike idles down and eventually dies..If I screw it in just a bit more than touching she revs up to about 1800rpm. Could it be that the needle slides rise up by some reason?
It's idling high because there is too much petrol getting in the motor , either on one or all four of the cylinders. This is the problem , it's not air leaks or CDI units or even buggered plugs although all of those will not help with running.
You have the correct carbs for the bike ? ID 31310 - 32mm Mikunins.
You've cleaned these till they are blue in the face -check ok ?
You're 100% certain you have reassembled them correctly ? *
Plenty of slack and well lubed throttle and choke cable - check ok ?
Cables not getting trapped for any reason ?
Tried physically pushing the butterfly mechanism shut whilst it is running ?
Pilot screws all same and set - not sure why you have them at 1.5, should be 2.25 but possible someone has over jetted it ? Pilot jet should be 40 main jet 120.
Choke mechanisms all retracting nicely into the bodies ?
All slides move up and down easily in the carb bodies , not warped or slightly bent needles holding them up slightly ?- If you have an air line you can check the movement of the slides by feeding air into the upper passages to make them move up , and then observe the fall . They should all be the same , which will also be shown on the gauges you are using for synching.
Identify if it is one cyl or all of them - Are all four pipes getting the same amount of hot , remove a lead from each cyclinder in turn to see if there is a one that makes a difference.
How does it idle under load, if you let out the clutch in first with the brake on is the bike fighting you or does it settled down to a lower RPM easily ? Again one cytl or the bank of 4 ?
Finally when balancing the correct sequence , it's middle - balance 2/3 .....left balance 1/2 .....right balance 3/4 . In No 3 is running the best then balancing correclty maybe the issue .
*Have you got the proper workshop manual ? If not I can share it with you .
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23 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
the airbox side isn't the source of your problem, an engine will idle and rev fine without an airbox fitted, it just won't ride very well.
.............And it'll probably still be running too rich......most likely on the pilot circuit ............although it might be a sticky throttle cable in the end I fear .
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I knew someone do a similar trick with some sillydream carbs back in the early 90's . Had to hold back on the giggling when hew came to ask if I could sell him a spare set .
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With those calipers and that method you should be able to go clean round the bend .....
Never tried using bleach , my go to is Jif / ANother white cleaner for first level gunge removal . I might have to give this a go next time .
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9 hours ago, SATANSAM said:
Thanx Panzer! That sounds good man, but I can't see any links sorry m8
click on the yellow writing .....the one that says "link "
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2 hours ago, SATANSAM said:
Well basically what happens is that the bike, to have all 4 carbs synced, has to be around 2000rpm or more, When throttle blimped 4 gauges act the same...4 carbs with new seals (even throttle shaft seals) butterflies spot on, new needle valve, needle and Oring, spot on float height, 4 carbs in UC, carb cleaner and compressed air...Intake boots to cyl head correct (no response with break cleaner, carb cleaner, contact cleaner or propane) but air box boots are a bit crappy, and can't find any (no stock and hardly any 2nd hand). I personally don't think airbox boots could cause such shit, I've balanced carbs without airbox with no hanging issues, actually the opposite. Thanx, I'm going to get drunk and buy a tractor.
To state the obvious it's running rich .
Assuming throttle cable and choke cable have slack at idle , and the needels sit down properly , I'd concentrate of the pilots screws and jets. Take a look at the attached maybe
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1 minute ago, SATANSAM said:
I bought one too, but doesn't seem 3 B my problem... I THIN I'M THE PROBLEM.
Huh
I might have missed it but when your balancing the carbs and you rev the bike the movement of the guages doesn't tell you anything either ?
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All I can add is that I bought a cheapo Chinese 6L U/Sonic cleaning bath six years ago , and having done a lot of old old carbs, I swear by it .
Best £100 spent that year . Was a believer in comp air and aerosol cleaners for a long time, but now a convert to the school of "20 minutes in the bath , wash and then off you shoot" . Technically you should be able to get the same result with either method , but for me the U/S bath is garanteed to work , and if not sure , another 20 minutes will deffo cure it .
It's an arse on a bank of four having to split them down, but the hope is, you only do it the once . Without wishing to sound like a smug knob, this is what I did my 750ES resto , and it fired straight up, settled to idle with no dramas. Bike had been sat for 6 years before I bought it , and two years after that , so plenty of time to gunge up .
If you can run to it , well worth the investment IMHO .
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Has it been a very naughty frame ?
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Unless you're being offered it for £20 ....with those miles and that problem I'd really pass up on it.
Don't be conned by the thought it's a "classic" they were kinda dull in the 1980/90's . If you can find a mate with a cheap X7 for sale .............
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Did the choke cable change work out ?
I've got to ask ...........are you "Simon G" or did you just pick up a bad nickname along the way ....
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Simoniz wheel silver from Halfrauds was very popular and a good match back in the day .
Master cylinder for my gsx 750 E
in Air Cooled
Posted
Rear will cost a pretty penny
Front They have bits but not the clear plastic reservoir .