[Compressor map]

So I bought a T25 off of an old Nissan 300zx for my bandit. The guy I purchased it from was kind enough to plot the map for me based on this information- 

Idle RPM- 1,200

Redline RPM- 11,500

Planned boost- 7psi-14psi

Displacement- 1216cc

I think I'm in range- but not exactly sure. Can anyone help break this down for me?  

 

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Here are a few pics 

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1 hour ago, no class said:

t25...….2554 or 2560 ?   both good for 200+ hp but max out 250-270 . @leblowski  has used both the tdo4 and 2560 on his bikes  I believe.....he would be the best to ask for a direct comparison 

I’m guessing the 2560 due to the 60 trim? 

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Other option right now is a Garrett t25 (60 trim) that my buddy has with internal gate. Compressor housing is .48 a/r and turbine housing is .63 a/r. Can anyone advise if this is something worth using or better off with a td04/5?

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Ok guys so today I sold the frankenbike to free up some funds for the the turbo project. New 16/43 JT sprockets on the way along with 150 link chain. Noticed while looking at turbos again that the td04hl-16t comes with two options... Straight flange and angled flange. Thought I read somewhere along the way that the straight flange is the one. Can anyone confirm this? Just want to check before I pull the trigger on a rebuilt one. Thanks in advance-

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12 minutes ago, clivegto said:

Front sprockets are not expensive easier to gear it up this way. Turbo bikes work better with the turbo under load.

Alright you sold me, easy enough. I’ll just keep my 15 for when my mk2 needs a swap

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Here are some better pics of it- debating whether I want it polished or powder coated black

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5 hours ago, clivegto said:

Am running 16/43 on my one.

Thanks Clive, did some more research last night and seems like everyone is running a little larger front (16/17). Might stick with the 15 for the time being though since I’ve got that long swinger. 

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So ordered new wheel bearings front and rear as the seals were crumbling to pieces. Chain and sprockets next since the bike was drag raced. Currently the rear sprocket is a 52 tooth... I have a brand new 15 tooth front I can use, but what would be recommended for the rear? I don't think a 52 tooth rear sprocket would appreciate a 1216 turbo bandit.. Should I drop it down to a 42? What's everyone else running on their 1216 turbos?

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Ohhh how plans change... I have been so busy working at the ski hill the last few months and getting my daughter settled in I haven't even looked at my bike. However, last week I was scouring the web for bits and pieces- and happened to come across a deal I could not pass up!!!  A guy in Michigan had posted "2 bandit 1200's for the price of 1". Sounded too good to be true....8 hours of driving later- I found myself staring at a mk1 bandit, with a massive swingarm by ADAMS, which also had a title and ran... The second bike was no bandit... It was a frankenbike... No title, for parts only- to fix up the other bandit he said. It looked like a chopped katana 600 frame, with a 750 motor swap, sitting on a 190 rear tire, and some funky rear shocks to make it look like a bobber?! I really don't know much about it, but $500 and they were both in the back of my truck! So now I have the extended swingarm I'll need, plus he threw in a spare head for the bandit, and a bunch of other shit! SCORE!!! So... since this happened last week- I have taken a few minutes to look them over- And think I have decided what to do with them. Turbo the mk1 bandit instead of my original mk2. It already has the swingarm I want, I can swap my lockup over to it, and throw the busa pistons & rods in it- since it leaks a bit and I have most of the parts for the rebuild anyways. Maybe even figure out how to fit that 190. Oh man like Christmas all over again! WEEEE!!!

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Started prepping the pistons last night for a little while. Using a green scotch brite pad to clean them up with. Takes a bit of elbow grease but I’m almost done with that. Got the lockup spacer back from my buddy before I had a chance to pull the last motor mounts so I put that together. Slowly but surely... Also, anyone ever ran their crank breather line/filter back along the frame and hide it under the tail fairing? Lots of room to hide it under there. (See last pic)

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Dropped off the MTC lock-up (spacer plate) for powder coat. Should be done in a few days. Haven't had a lot of time to work on the bike lately. Wife just gave birth yesterday to baby #2 so been plenty busy (Sitting in the hospital now typing this). Did sneak out to the garage one night last week with a 6pk to start tear down. Almost ready to drop the motor for re-bore. Also, ordered crankcase filter and fittings with a section of shiny stainless braided line so that's on its way. Got lucky with the manifold bolts as they all came out with a cordless impact and didn't strip or shear-off. Parts really starting to build up in the corner and lots of wires/parts labeled! More to come

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On 10/3/2018 at 1:07 PM, clivegto said:

Dont know but I used mk1 busa rods & pistons with 2mm spacer no base gaskets just the 2mm spacer. Pistons were 1/2mm down the bore, head had been flowed & had big inlet valves was possibly skimmed as well but still had 27ml combustion chamber area with 1mm cosmetic head gasket worked it out to be 7.95:1. When I first built the motor put the pistons in wrong way round did over a 100 miles then it was pointed out to me in my thread build so put them the right way round lol. As you know Rob it is making 260hp with 136lb torque with a good power curve & nearly 3000 miles on it this summer so shows this set up works.

2mm base spacer has been ordered. You said you used a 1mm cometic head gasket, is that thicker than their standard 81mm? (#c8279)

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12 minutes ago, clivegto said:

@ChadillacYes I heard that as well all I am pointing out is this set up works. Bike is completely rideable throughout the rev range it can be rode as a touring bike or a supper bike. Good luck  with the build.

super touring bike?! That sounds fun! Haha Did you run OEM Busa Rings also? Sorry for all the questions but im interested in what you were running for piston to cylinder clearance and also ring gaps if your willing to share?

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3 minutes ago, clivegto said:

No runs like a big bore bike low down.

Ive heard talk of noticeable power loss by dropping the CR, which i could understand if you were using stock pistons and lowered the compression but the 1216 busa slugs probably make up for that?

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5 minutes ago, clivegto said:

Dont know but I used mk1 busa rods & pistons with 2mm spacer no base gaskets just the 2mm spacer. Pistons were 1/2mm down the bore, head had been flowed & had big inlet valves was possibly skimmed as well but still had 27ml combustion chamber area with 1mm cosmetic head gasket worked it out to be 7.95:1. When I first built the motor put the pistons in wrong way round did over a 100 miles then it was pointed out to me in my thread build so put them the right way round lol. As you know Rob it is making 260hp with 136lb torque with a good power curve & nearly 3000 miles on it this summer so shows this set up works.

any notable difference running off-boost at that CR?

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26 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:

Piston pin to crown height difference?

Ill have to take some measurements in the next few weeks as i begin teardown on my motor. Nice riding days are quickly dissapearing where I'm at. Time to get to work 

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*Confirmed pistons are DIE CAST. Better than stock so they will be the ones going in! 

54 minutes ago, MeanBean49 said:

Yeah stock pistons suck, crushed ring lands with a hint of real boost.

Ive got a question regarding busa rods, i measured everything up ages ago out of interest as I was advised to use a 2mm spacer plate.

I measured a busa rod against a bandit on, the distance from the bottom of the small end to the top of the big end was only 1mm different iirc, i figured that if I used a 1mm spacer that would make the c/r exactly the same as using stock b12 rods. And that c/r is about spot on.

So why do people recomend the 2mm spacer plate? Doesnt make sense to me

still wondering about this myself... what to do what to do..

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Little better pic after pulling the pin. Rods seem forged- (stamped 24F) but still not positive on the pistons. Still worth swapping?

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Finally had some time to look at the pistons I got. They are out of a 1999 hayabusa. I was under the impression I needed to buy busa pistons because they are forged? The pistons I got seem to be cast... Can these be run with a turbo or did I screw up and buy the wrong pistons? 

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Parts came in

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4 hours ago, clivegto said:

My one is a street bike with a wheel base of 1440mm at the moment. Have done 2650 miles with this set up this summer so far.

And really like that setup!

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My needles on my cluster got stuck too the other day! Still missing some gauges though! Haha

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34 minutes ago, Askamaskinservice said:

How much beatin can it take unopened, ie how much boost.

If you don't max out torque below 5000 ish.

I’ve heard some people say 7 I’ve heard others say didn’t blow up till 15psi but that was stock pistons not forged. 8.5 -1 seems like a good number for 200hp sub 1 bar boost for now. Like I said it’s for street use not planning on improving 1/4 mile times chasing the boost