Russ750ET
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Posts posted by Russ750ET
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20 minutes ago, imago said:
I haven't had it personally, so I'm going on the box design and symptoms rather than experience.
That said, they're a simple set up as transmissions go, mainshaft and a layshaft with a roller bearing at each end of both. So bearing noise under load in top is going to have both shafts rotating at their highest rpm. To me that means the most likely culprit would be the roller bearings at the sprocket end of either shaft as that end gets a bit more thump in terms of radial load. However, I'd say that if you're that far into the box with that amount of mileage you'll be replacing all four roller bearings anyway.
Awesome cheers. That certainly sounds like a likely cause.
I think I'll just go steady on her for the remainder of the summer and not do any excessive millage.
But it looks like an engine out and full strip is on the cards, something to keep me busy over winter!
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5 minutes ago, Duckndive said:
In top and under load "direct drive basically"
So are you referring to "coasting" as on the over-run throttle closed in top gear ?
Yep. The noise only occurs when there's load on the engine when on the throttle, in top gear.
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The 1980 GSX1100 has been slowly developing a whirring noise in 5th gear. Not horrendous but definitely there. Doesn't make the noise while coasting, only when on the throttle.
Shifts through the gears absolutely fine.
I'm thinking it's the 84,000 miles on the clock that may be the cause.
Obviously I need to open it up and investigate, but I was wondering if anyone else has encountered this and what is likely the be the cause?
Mainly so I can get an idea of what I'm getting into parts and price wise etc
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16 - 42 on mine, with a 17'' rear wheel.
It gets through the gears pretty quick! I'm probably going to try a 17 tooth front sprocket once the weathers cleared up
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I've got the forks from my GSX1100ET stripped for a service. So figured now would be the time to have a fettle!
Does anyone know of any set up tips, or improvements that can be made to these forks?
As far as I can see they are in totally standard form, stock springs etc.
These forks feature the air pressure adjustment, but I've never personally run them with any air in as they seemed unable to hold any. So I will replace the seals and O-rings in the air system while I'm at it.
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Definitely sounds like a lean condition, which would suggest an air leak as Gix-er has stated.
A good starting point regardless is to record your current carb settings. GSXR carbs have been used on your model with great success by many people over the years, so I'm sure someone can confirm if your jets and settings are in the ball park.
The standard CV carbs can work well, I'm still working out some minor kinks with mine but I'm 90% there. Please note my engine is pretty highly modified and with a low restriction 4-1 pipe with very stubby silencer. So take this into consideration if you do decide to go the standard carb route with yours. You may not require such rich settings depending on your engine and exhaust set up.
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Simoniz 'Matt Aluminium' Engine Enamel is good. Used on my 1100. Does have a slight shimmer to it but looks quite 'natural'. Done 1000 ish miles since painted and so far its holding up well
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I've got this set up fitted to my 750ET.
I don't believe its a specific kit for the bike. Just a generic oil cooler, with hoses I cut to length. The only specific piece is the replacement oil filter cover, which is a CNC made piece made from aluminium, with 2 NPT taper threads to attach the hose connections to. Unfortunately I wasn't the one to purchase it so I have no idea where it came from or who made it!
The 750 doesn't have the oil sensor in the center of the cases, under the carbs like the 1100. So I think this is the only way you can do it on a 750, as the 1100 kits wont work.
A crank breather may help stop your leaks
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49 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
Oiling the filters using K&N oil may provide sufficient resistance to allow the tape removal?
And here's a thing - needle files aren't called needle files just because they are shaped like needles ! ! !
Good idea, thats got to be worth a go!
Never thought about that possibility with the needles either, pretty sure I have a spare set of 5C32 needles so I will have to experiment
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Made very good progress with the 750 and now have it running 99% perfect.
The vacuum sync kit confirmed that the carbs were quite far out, and the bike ran noticeably better as the carbs came into balance. I spent quite a while getting them as perfect as possible. So to anyone else reading this with carb issues, balance your carbs first!!
I have now changed back to 42.5 Pilot Jets, as it was virtually impossible to achieve any kind of sensible idle with the 45's. 2 turns out from closed seemed to achieve the highest idle and the low end response is pretty good.
Now the interesting bit.... chatted to Grumpy Gary 1260, he suggested taping the filters as a way of proving if the carbs are generally too lean. So I wrapped a loop of tape around the base of each pod filter. What a difference! The flat spot is all but gone and the plug is a much healthier colour. Doing 5th gear roll ons from low speeds and the bike pulls clean through the rev range, with maybe the slightest small flat area that it quickly gets past and revs out nicely.
The dilema I have now is do I ride with tape around my filters, or do I attempt to iron out the lean flat spot by playing with different settings? I've not found a richer needle the stock 5C32 for this carb. So I may have to bite the bullet and get a DynoJet kit at £138
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I should have mentioned that I already have a Ledar air corrector kit fitted.
Good to know about the filters, that will save me some cash!
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6 hours ago, banoffee said:
Have you read the Dynojet troubleshooting guide? I found it handy to get reasonable settings before a dyno run.
I've not no, but I've just found it and read through it and it looks helpful!
I'm getting a carb balancing kit tomorrow. I know I should have done that at the beginning, but I've been impatient and couldn't wait to ride the bike
I'll get the carbs synced then follow the guide from there. I've also read that people don't seem to have much luck with the gauze style tapered cone filters like I'm running. I may ditch them for a set of foam filters instead, which will hopefully help with the flat spot.
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Just had a quick look on the DynoJet UK site and it does appear as though they do them. Not in stock and £138 though!
I'll have a play and see if I can improve it a little. But it's not the end of the world if it isnt 100% perfect. I was more concerned with it being potentially damaging, but the exhaust tip colour is a very dark brown, and the motor runs well so it doesn't suggest its dangerously lean?
Thanks for your help
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7 minutes ago, Gixer1460 said:
How many hours are on that plug? Looks fairly new - is it taken directly from a plug chop - at what rpm? How does the current jetting compare to std. specification?
Yeah new plug, maybe had around 1 hours use. No this is after a 'roll into the drive and turn off' check.
Standard jetting for a GSX750 is: 112.5 Main, 42.5 Pilot, 3.5 turns out on the fuel screw and a 5C32 Needle on the middle clip #3. So it's already a fair amount richer than standard.
The bike rides well on the whole other than a flat spot at around 1/4-1/3 throttle.
Could it be worth just putting more time on the plug, and performing some various RPM plug chops?
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I've got a 1980 GSX750 with OEM Mikuni CV 32mm carbs, Pod filters, 4 into 1 exhaust and cam/port work to the motor.
Its currently running rather lean (see plug photo)
Current settings are:
135 mains, 45 Pilot, Fuel screws 2.5 turns out, standard 5C32 needle on the 5th (lowest) clip.
Where should I go from here? I was going to richen the needle but its already at its richest setting, what needles do I need?
Shall I go higher on the mains as well?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
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Wire wool and autosol is a good combination. Will bring it up to a polished finished while cutting through some of the heavier oxidation. Won't get it perfect but you should see a noticeable improvement.
If that doesn't work then red scotch brite and WD40 is another alternative
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Lower mounts
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On 8/14/2020 at 7:24 PM, wraith said:
I could be way off base here
but one thing that is very different between the two frames are the engine mounts lower frame.
Has anybody got a 750? Can't remember what he goes by but pete750et son has could he take some sizes and I can compare to the 1100 frame or @imago have you a 1100 and 750? To compare?
Only just seen this!
For info.... 750 in black, 1100 in silver
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http://zeus.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf
This guide has loads of info about the Mikuni CV carbs -
On 5/28/2020 at 7:26 PM, BigLT said:
Thanks for that. I was posting on my phone from the garage earlier. The pics have disappeared so I will post a couple now.
update - problem solved. Decided to buy new float needle valves and carriers for my 'professionally rebuilt' carbs. Went to change the third one = no needle valve there!
Where did you buy the needle valves and carriers from out of interest? Probably going to need to replace the ones in my 750 carbs
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On 4/22/2020 at 1:59 AM, Reinhoud said:
I've got a set of GSX750 carbies, I do have a jet, but my carbies have only one jet I can take out, the other side looks fixed.
The jet I have has 150 stamped in it, if I read it correctly.
You can have it if it's the right size.
I can send you the housing of 1 carb if you can't find anything.
Sorry, only just seen this
The jet you are referring too is the air jet, which fortunately are in good condition in all of my carbs.
Really appreciate your offer though and will keep it in mind if I ever require any carb parts in the future. Cheers.
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5 hours ago, Dezza said:
Yes, please elaborate!
You may have already seen it on my build thread - Pete750ET's GSX750 Continued on page 2.
Long story short, the reg/rec was buggered, but I didn't know it was, until I fitted a Lithium Ion battery which massively overheated and went up in a cloud of white smoke. Partially melted the underside of my seat pan, so I can see how there is a huge potential for fires etc to start as a result. Bit unfair to blame the battery, as it was receiving over 16 volts of charge. So I guess my advice would be to ensure your regulator/rectifier is tip top, and to check it regularly if you are going to run a lithium battery.
GSX1100 ET 5th Gear Whirring
in Air Cooled
Posted
Could be either, or both bearing/gear wear then.
Just had a quick look on CMS and it looks as though gears are still available, which is good.