Ibbo
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Posts posted by Ibbo
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On 1/26/2019 at 11:03 PM, Reinhoud said:
https://www.Eblag.com.au/itm/Adly-Herchee-Canyon-320-25-Zoll-D-CAT-Dot-Laser-Chain-Alignment-Tool/302687401901?hash=item46799337ad:g:2u4AAOSwsGlavR~k:rk:44:pf:0
Not sure if you and how you aligned your sprockets, but something like this is the only way to measure propperly, you put this on the front sprocket, because your rear sprocket can go on an angle and that screws up your alignment.
When I did mine I did it with strings and long pieces of timber, thought I did a good job, till I changed the rear fork bearings and deceided to have a check with that laser thingy, turned out it was out by over 5mm
I used a bit of straight bar, 5mm x 25 mm ish. Laser seems worth a spin though to check.
The bike rides straight enough, and chains can run quute a bit out of line.
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6.75 mm clearance between chain and tyre. Need another 3mm clearance then ideally to get a 180 on.
I was fancying a set of the pilot road tyres as a good all round road tyre. Is anyone using the latest ones?
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Had one once. That's enough.
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I may have to go 520 eventually then.
Guess I can stick at 170 for now.
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2 hours ago, Jonboy said:
3 to 5mm between tyre and chain minimum is what I would go with, others may say different but that is my preference. A correctly tensioned chain will not exhibit any lateral movement so will not rub. Are you using an offset front sprocket ? and also using 530/525 or 520 pitch chain?
Hi Jonboy
I've got a flat 530 front sprocket. It's spaced out to the maximum, to still be able to use the locking tab as std.
I foolishly bought a 5/8 offset one, and it was way too far over. A slight offset maybe 2 mm wpuld let me turn the rear sprocket, then I think I would have enough room for a 180 rear tyre.
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8 hours ago, CockneyRick said:
had a similar issue with the rear wheel "tightness" I found that the K series rears have a wider hub than the Busa, so i swapped mine & line up was a tad easier.
But same as you, i had to shave down the carrier bolts. I then bought some tab locks & 1/2 nuts to sort that issue
Third pic is a shaved down carrier which can also give you more mm's to play with. Oh & a 180 tyre
I dont have much space between the chain and tyre, what do you think is a reasonable minimum?
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10 hours ago, Jonboy said:
Yep sure are, see you are in Cornwall too, I is at the other end near the border.... Seems there are a few Cornish OSS out there
Maybe a summer meet up would be er, interesting ?
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Well to be fair it might not be the actual grass, but there will be tasks.
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Back home for the weekend, will be borrowing a timing light as soon as ive cut the grass.
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5 hours ago, Jonboy said:
nice to see another GS1000 with a GSX donkey in it
Good aren't they.
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Thanks jonboy for the pointer about the dyna website. I now have instructions.
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Thanks for the timing info. Will have to get a new degree wheel.
Bike looks a bit scruffier in the flesh than in the pics, but i like it.
Nice to see theres a few about too.
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Good spot with the dyna s by the way. Not much to give it away in the pic.
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Hi,
Ive not yet checked the timing. The mark looks to be on a piece of tin plate behind the adjustable back plate. Depending where its sat you could certainly alter it a few degrees.
Is this normal for this model?
I must find a manual.
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Did you get any ideas for the jetting? Im on k&n oval filters, 125 mains, and lifted the needles a touch. Ive not done enough miles to know if im close.
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Next step is to rewire the starter, and kill switch to allow it to crank while off, unless anyone has an other ideas?
Mike
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I found that the needles in the cv carbs only have one groove, so I files the little plastic spacer down to 2mm from a varied 2.5 - 2.75mm.
Spend 30minutes searching on the beige carpet for one of them, but my luck was in.
Seemed to run a bit sweeter, so pulled it out front, and we both got togged up.
Hit the button to light the fire, and it tried but hit compression in that way they do, and then the starter gently whirred in an expensive manner. Kit off again to my good ladies disgust.
Back in the shed, and the rotor has spun on the taper. The nut being loose of course. The cover had been off before, and lagged up with black gunk, so I should have been suspicious I guess. So as a temporary thing, I cleaned up the crank, and loctited the rotor on.
A long bar, and a pin spanner. Hmmmm 100ftlb that is then. No gasket, but I had to test it, it was still kicking back, which meant my repair wasn't going to last.
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Yesterday was the big day then, a first ride in the pouring ride isnt my idea of fun, but it had to be done.
Surprisingly, the handling feels very sweet, no twitches on white lines, or banding. Easy turning.
The motor was fluffing a bit once the throttle was opened. Feels lean at part throttle. Pulls well once it clears the flat spot. Good enough to get to the garage.
Mot went very smoothly with an advisory for the exhaust noise. As it should be really.
Bit of a zip up to 90 and all seems well.
Let the boss know all is well. Into the shed to lift the needles, and then a spin out after.
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I've been busy in the shed, getting the old girl up and running, with the hope of getting some miles in this summer, before a strip this winter to tidy up.
The 5.5" back wheel off a k just squeezed in with some minor spacing issues, which included shortening the sprocket bolts which had an odd thread size of 10 x 1.25. Luckily I managed to get some help from a friend at work.
The front sprocket is spaced as far out as possible on the shaft, and best as I can measure is 1mm out of line, with the rear one. I should have measured the original set up to see how close that was.
Reversing the rear sprocket has gained some, so shouldn't be far off.
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M10 x 260mm
Mike
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Katana frame brace
in Air Cooled
Posted
The spacer was 2.75mm, mostly.
I trimmed it down to 2mm. Not yet had chance to have a spin out though.