Ibbo
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Posts posted by Ibbo
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I had a boss welded on to do away with the vacuum taps.
Currently on a HD tap.
Same thread as the pingel.
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Works lightly on low torque, and increases the plate pressure as the torque increases. The slipper clutches lift the plates for you when there is a high torque in the reverse direction.
Got to be possible.
You might find if you slipped the clutch to set off too fast it would prevent you slipping it . No idea really.
The point is that many riders do have a problem with heavy clutches, as evidenced by the number of queries on how to make it lighter.
But as I've said, I've no idea how it could be done practically.
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That's for one of the drag clutches that uses centrifugal force to load up the clutch.
My invention would slide up a ramp like a slipper clutch in reverse.
As soon as you ease the throttle the ramp would back off, and allow normal operation.
Just an idea though.
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As soon as you ease the throttle off the cam would unload? Maybe.
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I've often wondered if the opposite to a slipper clutch could be made.
Light springs that are backed up with a load related cam.
Not a DIY job for most people though.
There's a lot of us that struggle, or find the clutches to be heavy.
Mike
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I'm sure I took mine out, and got an extra plate in, or maybe not.
Definitely removed the wire and other bits.
Clutch worked at least as well as before.
Mike
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I believe mine to be gsxr1100k, they have adjustment. Not sure on the length but speed bumps can cause the exhaust to scrape.
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The rear one works as a spacer, so im guessing thats why its been ground down a bit.
i got a spacer made up as it was a tidier job than modifying the original part.
mike
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Thats more than I knew by quite a bit.
thanks.
Does it fit straight in?
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I have an ET motor, and I'm wondering if there are any advantages to fitting the EFE gearbox in it.
Does anyone know what the differences are?
Thanks Mike
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I'm currently very happy with my 20mm over Maxton rear shocks. Not sure they've made much difference to sharpening the steering, but it doesnt wallow fully laden, or tramping on round fast bends.
Mike
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Not worth doing for a fairly standard road bike.
thanks mike
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Ive had a look round, and not found any info on modifying the pickup.
Can you advise a bit more on what could be done?
thanks Mike
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bad earth in the headlight?
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thankyou all for the information. currently i'm leaning to a gsxr charging system on the 1075 lump. 1kg off the crank is big numbers to me.
if anyone wishes to offer a deal on a straight frame for bike no 2 i'm happy to start a new build, but i think air cooled is my love. i once had a 199hp dyno chart with tts. long live the roller crank.
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Its a very handy epoxy. Should keep a bit under the seat.
Just mix the 2 thick pastes together , and then apply to a clean surface. Smooth with a wet digit.
Once set can be drilled, painted etc.
I use grey I think. Cheapest one.
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Milliput is currently doing a similar duty for me on a petrol tank.
Mike
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28 minutes ago, wraith said:
Sounds like you need a car
Got both best way.
The gs1000g with tuned GS 1000g engine is fun to ride and is a complete different way of riding to the oil cooled, down side, the air cooled yes heavyer and not as much mpg.
Oil cooled, got the kat with 1127 in it and the ET with 1157 in it, love riding both lots of tuque and power when you want it, don't ask me to choose witch I like the most as I can't all different and all are fun.
Best way to answer your question is get both
A car indeed. We go camping, and prefer to be independent of mains supplies. maybe solar would help.
The grips help me wear thinner gloves on brit summer days. I struggle with thicker ones, and cold hands hurt nowadays.
I wish I had more room for bikes.
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The Mosfet regulator does help. I find it difficult to keep heated grips, headlight, and phone charging going though.
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Keep the aircooled bike with it's current engine. Then build another bike with an oilcooled engine so you get the best of both
I like your way of thinking.
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I'm putting this in the aircooled because I'm after the opinion of anyone who has swapped engines from Air to Oil cooled. Specifically I'm looking at GSX1100 ET to GSXR1100.
I can see some advantages to the swap, 25?kg lighter, better charging system, possibly a little more power. Maybe more tolerance to hot weather?
There are some disadvantages, the aircooled fits the frame slightly better, lower revs, and more torque. The look of the air cooled appeals.
If you have done the swap, did it work out how you expected? Can you tell it's lighter? Is it thirstier? Tank range is a bugbear at the moment with a european tour planned for next year.
The air cooled is a good engine, so maybe I should improve the charging, and keep it in there. It does have a charm all of it's own.
What should I do?
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Chain saw files come in different diameters, and are good to slot cam sprockets.
mike
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52 minutes ago, wraith said:
Had a manual one on my gs1000 and ended up putting a OEM one back on
hi Wraith, why did you go back?
mike
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First run out with maxtons fitted today. I was 2 up, so its only first impression really did around 100 miles round Dorset.
Fitted easily with no problems. They don't supply the lower yoke bolt with the shocks. My old ones were threaded into the yoke, the motors need a nut on the back. There's room so no problems.
They're 20mm longer, and in my head the steering ought to be sharper, got to say I can't really feel it.
Currently they are comfier, moderately compliant and I now have a fairly well controlled back wheel. no wallowing on faster corners.
The damping adjustment I can feel a difference on the road after 4 clicks.
GS1000 1978 smaller rear caliper
in Air Cooled
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Is the bolt spacing the same for the gsx750f rear caliper?
I have one on mine but used gsxr rear wheel and disc so used the gsx mounting bracket.
Mike