Wolf
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Posts posted by Wolf
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If you are willing to scrap the bottom yoke grind one side to see how deep welding penetrated then cut rest of yoke of around stem as to still have a lip to grip on aluminum new yoke
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Take an old screw and cut groves into threads clean with a wire brush and U have a tap . . .
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It is a butcher method but a sharp small blade chisel that can cut it in half ???
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Are the mounting rubbers hose over aluminum head port or rubber hose on a oval base with M6 bolts to head ?
If the latter is the "O" rings between head and manifolds good and capable of temps they go through?
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Hope these help
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I have disconnected and blanked off vacuum at carb and sealed diaphram (after 4th rebuild kit) leaked in a short time so Prime is on and Reserv and On is off
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On 7/16/2021 at 5:14 PM, Gixer1460 said:
Query - Why?
Are those few thou for a steel / paper gasket so precious to gain against the leak potential?
Made my own velamoit base gasket with nitrate "o"rings
Have heard of guys using extra heavy duty tin foil for base gasket . . .
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Lenght of cylinders and block height will make a difference
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Self cuting inserts come in diffrent wall thickness that can take it back diwn
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5 minutes ago, Wolf said:
Air in revers of hydraulic flow usually does it but if a new piston is available drill&tap to pull works
Newer M/C are available and if you more of a purist there are lookalikes
https://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3ccf2f870021958f282b3/front-master-cylinder
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Air in revers of hydraulic flow usually does it but if a new piston is available drill&tap to pull works
Newer M/C are available and if you more of a purist there are lookalikes
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I have twice had to resolder the wires from windings to R&R and still have a steady charge rate of 12.7-13.8v
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If any one could posibly share dimentions of the bushes of the swing arm fixing bolt ?
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I replaced the inlet piping to these and have not had a drop since
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Have you done a wet test ?
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On 5/14/2019 at 2:03 PM, Jaydee said:
@WolfI'll have a look and see what I have. I can scan it for a better resolution.
Sweet thank you
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On 4/30/2019 at 9:23 PM, Jaydee said:
This any help?
Sam im glad you got it sorted
Jaydee i find this very intresting my GS was first regesterd in jan 79 has twin disks steped seat and choke at handle bars ...
Bike is South African so should fall under genral oversees market
I whould love to read more of this file if posible? Please !
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Gooday have you found the problem ? I had the szme 300 km on 12 plugs ..
Had a look in the manual as i was trieing t find Nipo Denso plugs and found this (image) i changes to the hotter plug and the shit stoped un till i used my kick stand more than normal , at yhe zngle my 1000 leans on the kivk stand she czn floud in +- an hr as the float level is not as it should be.
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On 8/8/2018 at 10:57 PM, KATANAMANGLER said:
If the plug is fouling then either the ratio of air to fuel is wrong or it's being fouled by oil.
Either way the basic ingredients to a clean burn are compression, air, fuel and a spark.
You know you are getting a spark when the plug is clean and you know you are getting fuel and air because it fires with a new plug.
I would do nothing more until you do a compression test. Read the compression across all 4. If the compression is close across all 4 then you know it's got to be the air fuel ratio on number 1 cylinder or possibly a bad oil ring or leaking valve stems seals. Look at the plug once it has dried off. Is it black and sooty or black and oily?
If you get low compression on 1 then that will create a weak burn which will foul the plug. Once it fouls it won't spark.
If the compression is low you need to know if it's rings or valves.
First thing I would do is a compression test though.
And a wet compresion test will show if its rings
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On 12/9/2018 at 4:04 PM, Fazz711 said:
Hi bud. Welcome to OSS.
The V & H sound really good but severely limits clearance on the right.
So does the old school Cowley ...
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On 1/2/2019 at 4:48 PM, kevinlunatic said:
Dont worry I wont hold it against you as I also have a yamahaha and a harley furguson as well as my 3 suzi's and have always had a bike on the road since 79 but never come across anything like it even my local dealer (bikes not that) says clutch but does not know what part no ridges or grooves in the basket and given the choice I would run it on old school GTX style real oil never trusted all this new fangled synthetic rubbish (now I am starting to sound like my old man)
was going to order EBC plates as they seam to be about the only thing available these days
Welcome to O S S i had a similar feeling till i tightened the main stsnd bolts but that whould vibrate under low reves also
I do agree on using Mono grsde oil tho as my bkke does not like part /full sympathetic or even just multi grade oils ...
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Keep to stock unless you have upgraded the charging system in SA we get a brand named toplite my last one lasted 4 years ( standing for routhly 2 years there of ) then died i gave it a hell of a 8hr charge boiling it and got another weeks riding off it
Got a new one and it lasted a single day ( the older bikes aint fun to puch ) so i got an exchange unit today il see in about 3hr how it lasted thu the nite
GS 750 cam holder question
in Air Cooled
Posted
If you are in the disposition of needing to replace cam caps and your cams are worn on journals why not rather have a machine shop re-linebore journals resurface cams to fit white metal bearings or needle rollers ?
At least (if my previos advise is shit ) use a plastic gauge before turning engine over . . .
