Romaz750R
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Posts posted by Romaz750R
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I have no VIN plate too, because my GSXR is JDM.
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Hi all!
I think much of us faced this problem... Can you advise so methods of solving this damage?
Cutting off part of pipe, or trying to unscrew and straighten with heating?
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Amazing bike!!!
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I probably got it.
If servise limit of upper case clearance is OK, so its OK.
If servise limit is exceeds, so i shouid choose thrust bearings for lower case.... I think so.
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5 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
The cap is machined for them so can't imagine how end float without them would be acceptable - a crank floating back & forth 1-2mm can destroy other things!
Upper part of crankcase dont have 1-2 mm gap. Its about 0.15 mm.. But also lower par of crankase have them - 1.5-2 mm.
I understand that they should be there, maybe tell me how to choose them? And maybe you know the thickness of these plate bearings?
Maybe some thrust bearing selection table?
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Good evening all!
Mates, have one question about plate thrusts for crankshaft. Making some big order for engine overhauling, and trying not to forget any parts.
So, question is - do i need this plate thrusts, if they were not there initially? Crankshaft thrust clearance is OK.
I doubt it, because in some manual (I don't remember which one) I read "... if they were installed initially ...". And also they illustrated on partlist (pos.12, 13).
GSXR 750 1986.
Thank you in advance!!!
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1 hour ago, Captain Chaos said:
Get a service manual, you'll need it.
Already
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9 hours ago, gixxerpilot said:
Clearence is determined buy a chart which uses the codes depending on crank size and crankcase size, then checked with plasti-guage on a dummy assembly for correct clearance.
Please tell me, if i have code "A" on crankcase, which indicates size 35,000-35,008. so when i will be choosing bearing size, which number should I take into account? 35,000 or 35,008 or average between them?
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33 minutes ago, gixxerpilot said:
90 is a long stroke motor, the measurements confirm this and the 90 conrod will fit both the 86 and obviously the 90 crankshafts
A word of warning, when fitting the 90 rods to the 86 crank (i assume this is what you want to do) make sure that you measure very thing and double check every thing fits correctly, this should be done regardless of using different rods etc, if you are using new parts that have not been in a motor before it is very important to check fit.
DON'T change just 1 conrond, make sure you change all 4.
Thanks!!!
Of course! This conrods (all 4) are already were there, before i started overhauling. I have drove about 2000 km on this conrods/crankshaft.
This is a puzzle that the previous owner left me)) So, will do my best!
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13 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
Edit - i've obviously not seen enough 750's LOL! - they are too small to be real engines though!)
Glad to have at least this
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And more some codes.
This 27A is evrywhere on engine)
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2 hours ago, gixxerpilot said:
bit unsure of what you are asking, if you want to know if earlier model 759 conrods fit, yes but not the 88 and 89 as they were short stroke motors with different size cranks and rods, as for other conrods i do not know.
I'm trying to figure out if these conrods can be kept. Because, just looking at the picture, they look like from 90. And if the crankshaft for 86 and 90 is the same, then it means that i can install these?
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2 hours ago, gixxerpilot said:
....as the long stroke motors have 18mm wrist pin and 34mm big end journal
Yes, i measured 18/34.
90s 750 engines are long or short stroke? Could it be, that this conrods from 90/750?
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3 hours ago, Ted M said:
I think they maybe off a water cooled GSXR 1100 I’m pretty sure they’re the same size journal as oil cooled but not sure about the length. This is for the GSXR 1100 W
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/1994/gsx-r1100w/crankshaft
They look like this (90 750)
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Good evening all!
Have some situation, while overhauling engine... Need to check oil clearance on piston rods bearings. Noticed, that rods should be with nuts, bu i have rods with bolts.
Do somebody know, is that rods with bolts from 90' gsxr? Or they could meet on early models?
And main question, whats the assembly tightening torque? And initial and final tightening torque for checking oil clearance?
Also have some scratches on crankshaft. Must have grinded some bolt or nut on previous engine... is that ok or better make it balancing?
Thank you in advance
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23 hours ago, jonny1bump said:
You don't actually need to remove it. At least you cam blow galleries easier i suppose.
yes, but I couldn't get the wrench in any way due to bolt 9...
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As I thought, this plug just stuck over time. Angle cutting machine helped.
So, big work ahead.
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15 minutes ago, colinworth79 said:
Possibly need to remove to get the crankcase bolt out ( left one in pic )
You mean №9?
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Good evening all!
First time overhauling engine on my 86 750. And of course a lot of questions arise during disassembley... manual says that before removing the crankshaft tightening bolts, need to remove oil gallery bolt. In my situation I have stripped hex in this bolt and have no instruments to remove it right now.
So, the question is, is it correct to remove oil plug after separating crankcase?Go easy on me
first time go so far into engine
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On 2/15/2016 at 6:54 PM, Crazylien said:
Hello does anyone know where to find an manual for the flatside mikuni carbs ? I need to set my needles . dont see how i could remove the needles to set them
Have some pics of vm29ss .
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10 hours ago, Meatbomb99 said:
Do you press out the top ball, that then pushed out the bottom ball through the base of the float bowl?
Yes, exactly! As i said, get nail, cut it straight, and push (as i showed on the picture) slowly not to break float bowl!.
Still all right, no leaks!
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20 hours ago, GadgetBoy said:
so a spring out of a Biro pen should do it
I think thats fine!) I have a "spring shop" near
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6 hours ago, GadgetBoy said:
Were you able to buy a genuine replacement spring? or did you have to find something similar?
thanks!
I bought a similar one. There is no in catalog. It was looked like spring of plunger (accelerator pump), but a little shorter.
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Yes, it was easy enought. I used clamp and nail (you should cut off the sharp edge, becouse nail should push on the centre of upper ball). And i put the nut between clamp and lower ball (еру lower ball will go inside the nut). Press out slowly so as not to damage the float chamber. it will be also good to drop a little oil on the lower ball.
Replace the spring, and press the ball back (dont forget the order: upper ball - spring -lower ball). The ball is tight enought and there is no leaks.
Oldschool "charm" is good, but better when oil and petrol inside))
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Left carb leaking!!!
in Oil Cooled
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HI!
Sorry for answering late...
Marry Chistmas and Happy New Year!
Dont khow the strenge of spring, just use for measuring peaces of broken spring, and pick something same.
Still have "very very slow" leakage, but im OK with that