wombat258
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Posts posted by wombat258
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20 hours ago, Pegleg said:
As @Gixer1460said above. I have dramatically increased the flow which might be overwhelming the needles. They didn't flood with an 8mm fitting.
No. If the floats were doing their job you could have a 3" diameter pipe feeding it without it flooding, with the fuel pump turned off. One advantage of the vacuum operated tap is that it shuts off fuel flow to the floats while the engine is not running.
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9 hours ago, Pegleg said:
They havn't leaked once since I started putting the bike together Months ago. I've done several carb rebuilds now. Seems strange they suddenly leak after getting stronger fuel supply. I will strip them again. Might have got a bit of swarf through when I fitted the bigger outlet.
Or, a float could have collapsed/cracked and contains fuel.
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Check carb float needles and the seat o-rings for leakage. With pump off they should not leak with normal head of fuel.
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You can use the rotors out of a Gurls blouse CT90 oil pump and make your own housing.
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It has been done.
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Hayabusa rods are longer than 1100W rods. Same bearing bores. Earlier oil cooled rods are same dimensions as 1100W.
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Oil temperature? Oil viscosity? Not unusual to have high oil pressure with thick cold oil. Hopefully you did not put the crankshaft main bearings in the wrong position, or the conrod bearings will be toast.
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11 hours ago, Reinhoud said:
There should be a way that the oil is sucked of via the oil pick up, so you don't need a scavenge pump
I have an 1100W Hahn turbo kit sump (unused) that does exactly that. I am not a fan of introducing any air into the oil pump as it can result in plain bearing failures. Would probably work with early roller bearing crank engines.
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79.5mm bores already have problems with blowing head gaskets. No gain in going bigger unless the bores are offset, and this requires a custom block and pistons (ie. SBM). With offset bores over 83mm is possible.
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Before you blank off the oil cooler ports on the 1100W sump you will see a restrictor inside one port. Remove the restrictor with an allen key. Now blank off the ports, and it will work like a 750W sump.
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Do you plan to delete the 1100 oil cooler?
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I have crack tested a LOT of pistons for a LOT of race teams over the years. I have only come across one speedway sprintcar engine (methanol V8) with ceramic coated pistons. Most of the pistons revealed flaking of the coating!
I have 2 pistons from 2002 championship winning Ferrari F1 engines - no coating.
IMO if you are melting pistons you have a tuning problem, or are using nitro!
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Busa pistons have dished crowns.
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55 minutes ago, 1260Pete1 said:
I run 30ms on most of my bikes and rarely get miss shifts, if it doesn't shift then there is normally another issue somewhere, on my busa I run 25ms and the only time It won't shift is if I get bad wheelspin.
A rare missed shift loses a drag race, and you are back on the trailer. Better to go safe, and not miss shifts! It also depends on when your cut time is initiated. For a straight cut on shift signal, 70ms is about right. On closed loop systems with pre-cut delay you can get away with 15ms. On top of that some ratios will always require more cut time because of internal dog configuration. On early Zuke and Zeds this was always the 4-5 shift.
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4 hours ago, djayedot said:
Hey Wombat, how hot does your bike run with that kit? What's your CR? Just trying to get an idea of what's ahead of me lol.
Running it in a circuit race car. Compression is 11.1:1, running 98 octane pump fuel. Had to put extra cooling on because of the extra power (220 bhp), but no problems with cooling, even on hot summer days here in Oz. It is more reliable than my 79.5mm bore stroker!
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6 hours ago, Gixer1460 said:
And probably a bit rate these days!
Very rare. I have one of the 1298cc SBM blocks drilled for full watercooling . . . 83mm pistons! Allows for a lot of valve area.
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Drag race block. Not drilled for proper water cooling.
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I would have ditched the stock system and installed a Dyna 2000 ignition and coils. Problem solved!
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9 hours ago, Joseph said:
Thats something you see on modern bikes. I don't think oilcooled or W bikes ever came with noise levels included on the frame plate.
There is on my Australia plate 1100WS. Maybe it is a country specific requirement?
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Should be a noise compliance plate affixed to the chassis or exhaust.
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Start by counting gear teeth to calculate the gear ratios. Use google to find out what those ratios match to. There is a big difference between 750W and SRAD.
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My bad. I actually made a 6 spring conversion for my 1100W engines a while ago before I went to a lockup.
The 1052 is a 4 spring, I bought new parts from Suzuki, as follows:
1 Clutch inner hub 21410-06B02 1 off GSXR1100 G,H & J
2 Pressure disc 21462-06B00 1 off GSXR1100 G,H & J
3 Coil springs 4 off - Barnett HD
4 Spring spacers 09180-06174 4 off GSXR1100 G,H & J
5 Washers 09160-06020 4 off GSXR1100 G,H & J
6 Bolts 01107-06307 4 off GSXR1100 G,H & J -
Yes. It is also a common modification to use 6 spring plate on an 1100W, except you need to make a 10mm spacer for under the hub nut to allow for the longer 1100W shaft. You may need a longer pushrod, or add an 11mm bearing as a spacer.
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10 hours ago, Joseph said:
Back on the 6 speed box topic, is the bore of this WC shaft, the same as the 1100 5 speed ?
Yes. I have done this conversion. The star of the 1100W will come out with a suitable drift. I preferred to use the star to maintain the oil flow, and discounted using a bronze bush. 750W shaft is 10mm shorter than the 1100W shaft.
You can only use the 1100W hub by counterboring enough to expose the shaft threads, and making a special stepped nut. Do not machine the splines at the back of the hub, as it will foul the basket springs! I have one of those hubs for a sidecar race engine floating around here somewhere. The 1052 hub is neater, and the springs are easier to tune for higher torque outputs.
Sold one of these modified 750W gearboxes a few years ago. The buyer insisted it would fit in an SRAD, I said NO . . . I noticed it came back onto FB marketplace shortly afterwards
Engine full of fuel.
in Forced Induction
Posted
Actually it can with a small bit of engineering. I managed to get a constant vacuum source to a Scottoiler on my turbo engine with a small check valve and a small electric solenoid