Spadge
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Posts posted by Spadge
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1 hour ago, Dezza said:
If you do not have a t piece I probably have one so come and get it later seeing as I only live 300m from you.....
Aha so the penny has dropped now
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25 minutes ago, Dezza said:
It looks that way. Connect both spigots to the fuel tank using a t-piece and a bit of fuel hose and it should run on all 4.
Yep that's the plan. Thanks for the he help
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7 hours ago, Gammaboy said:
There's no connection between the number 2 and number 3 float bowls (hopefully this pic shows):
So if they aren't connected then I assume my original prognosis is likely to be correct?
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18 minutes ago, Dezza said:
Sounds feasible because if both spigots on the carbs for the fuel pipe connections and all four float bowls were interconnected, unless you have plugged the other spigot you'd have wet feet as the fuel would leak out of it.
Someone who has better knowledge of the carbs fitted to these new fangled water cooled things then me will be able to confirm this or not.
Well I did plug the other line so not sure if they are interconnected. It seems to make sense to me that the two lines would feed each pair of carbs. Would be good to get it confirmed though.
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Hello everyone,
I've gotten to the stage of starting the bike following my streetfightering build. It's only on 2 cylinders (3&4). This would suggest the coils are ok.
I'm currently using an uxilary fuel tank while I'm testing her out prior to refitting the original fuel tank. I've got this connected to one of the two fuel line that usually would connect to the fuel tap, which has three connections in total. One for vacuum and two for fuel. Could my issue be caused by the fact I'm only using one of the two fuel lines?
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Got to the bottom of it. It was a resistor in the ignition barrel that is connected to earth. The resistor had come away from the soldered joint. Resoldered and it started on the button...who'd have thought it hey?
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So following a streetfightering rebuild of my gsxr 750 WP I went to start it the other day and got nothing.
Upon turning the ignition the Speedo lights up and I get over 12v from starter relay.
I've tested, with a multimeter, the neutral switch, side stand switch and kill switch and all are working and in the correct positions.
One suspicion is that when on turn on the ignition I here the side stand relay click twice in quick succession, like it's going open then closed again. Not sure if this is normal or what would be causing it.
Another suspicion is the starter button itself. This has two wires. One going in from the starter relay (previous owner bypassed the clutch switch), and one out to the ignition coils. There is 12V on the wire from the starter relay to the switch. However when testing voltage across the wire in from starter and wire out to ignition coils I don't get any Voltage across the wires, whether the switch is open or closed.
Does any of this sound like it could be causing the bik not to start?
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8 hours ago, Madb said:
Yes, the spare wires you refer to are for another horn for the left side of the bike. o/g and b/bl wires.
the pink wire is not used. well, not on your model anyways. Some may say, it's the wheelie wire , but we all know wheelies are controled by yer right hand and yer awesomeness!
A eaome that's what I thought. Good to s NSE check th we things tho
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8 hours ago, Madb said:
Yes, No need to remove the air box. your tank will need to be removed tho! the balance pipes connect to the top of the carbs. do you have dial gauges or carb tune type?
As their is a proper way the set the gauges up before you start incase you didn't know. not aware of yer skill set, or mechanical skills .
I have the carb tube type so the manual explains set up procedures in it. I have an auxiliary fuel tank for doing the balancing so that not a problem. Did you manage to adjust the balancing screws with a normal screwdriver or do I need a 90 degree angled jobby?
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8 hours ago, Madb said:
wp model had the steering damper fitted to the left side of the bike. bracket fitted under the left top frame rail and the other end fitted to the left fork via a 50mm clamp. and the were very long too tho you can get new ones at a price.The later models fitted under the bottom yoke with that damper you have now. if your yokes are the earlier type then you will need to drill and tap the bottom yoke. hope that help a bit.
Cheers mate. I think I actually have a wr, well most of it is. The frame is now an 1100 for reasons I won't get into...will take to long. Up shot of everything is that I don't think the dampner will work with my set up as I don't have the fairing bracket that attaches to the headstock, which I am led to believe the dampner attaches to. Unless of course I get creative but I'm not too arsed about it at the mo.
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20 hours ago, Danm54 said:
Some models were fitted with twin horns so I guess thats what the spare O/G and B/BL are for.
The pink wire is connected on the RF9 and it retards the ignition in lower gears, its common to unplug it for more power in those gears.
Guess it's just in the loom on a lot of models even though it doesn't do anything.
Yes probably the same loom used on multiple bikes of that vintage
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I think the pink one is just "there for show". Doesn't appear to have a purpose according to the wiring diagram
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I have the neutral connected. It is a blue wire. Any idea what the pink wire is there for. Doesn't seem to connect to anything on the wiring diagram.
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Anyone know what the orange with green tracer and black with blue tracer wires connect to?
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At the risk of asking a stupid question is there a way of adjusting throttle bodies without removing the airbox. It looks pretty tight around there.
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Thanks for that. I've converted to a street fighter and I got rid of that bracket so no dampner for me then. At least I know where I'm at with it now. Cheers for the help.
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5 hours ago, skunkrider2 said:
On having a second look at brackets taken off my bike, its possible the other fixing point is underneath the bracket that holds clocks and headlights. I can photo if needed.
Richy
A photo would be excellent thanks
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Thanks for this. Any idea where specifically on the frame bolt 5 attaches to (pics would be awesome). I'm really struggling here.
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I'm attempting to refit the steering dampner to my gsxr 750 WP. I've been through the manual and the fiche but I can't see how the bugger is supposed to go back on.
Can someone help me here. I'll attach an image of the model of dampner I've got below.
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Thanks for all your responses. I got it sorted in the end. There was a terminal, on the switch connector for dipped headlights, which appears to have had some heat damage at some point. This had caused the male and female terminals to not mate properly. Pinched the female terminal with pliers and it worked.
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Hi all,
I've been adapting the wiring at the lights on my Gsxr 750w make the it suit a street fighter style. This is what I've done so far:
-Cut one of the plugs (originally there were two plugs for two headlights). My understanding is that these were originally H4 bulbs 55/60w, with both lights on at dipped and main beam. My though process was that the second plug would not be necessary as one feeds the other in parallel so there should still be power there if I lose a plug.
When I wired it all up and tested it I'm only getting main beam, no dipped headlight at all.
Am I missing anything obvious here? Does the bike need to be fired to enable dipped beam or something daft like that? Pretty confident the loom is OK.
The pic shows the headlight loom I made attached to the headlight
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Thanks for all the good responses. Think I'll flush the system just to be sure before putting anything else in. What's the best way of doing this? Fill reservoir in radiator with deionised water, turn on bike let it heat up a bit then drain, repeat 2 to 3 times then fill with diluted coolant?
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On 09/03/2018 at 1:35 PM, Madb said:
which ever you use, Please use Distilled water. It's cheap enough from super market garages. 2 liters for a quid. and mix it 50-50 with anti freeze. Pre-mix you'll pay a premium but some prefer it.
DO NOT USE TAP WATER.
Thanks Madb... Don't worry I'm not a complete noob. Was just curious about the properties of the suzuki coolant and want to make sure I 100% do not end up with jelly in the bike from mixing incompatible fluids. I'm really just trying to find a comparable coolant with what was in there originally... Assuming it was suzuki stuff off course.
The colour was a greenish blue if that helps anyone.
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3 hours ago, Madb said:
which ever you use, Please use Distilled water. It's cheap enough from super market garages. 2 liters for a quid. and mix it 50-50 with anti freeze. Pre-mix you'll pay a premium but some prefer it.
DO NOT USE TAP WATER.
Thanks Madb... Don't worry I'm not a complete noob. Was just curious about the properties of the suzuki coolant and want to make sure I 100% do not end up with jelly in the bike from mixing incompatible fluids. I'm really just trying to find a comparable coolant with what was in there originally... Assuming it was suzuki stuff off course.
The colour was a greenish blue if that helps anyone.
Gsxr 750 WP caliper options
in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
Posted
Hi all,
I'm considering swapping the 6 pots out for something else. What are my options?
Do sprint rs calipers work? They are 90mm centres, rotors are 320mm.
Does rotor size of donor bike matter when looking at this sort of the thing?
I'm looking to do it without matching spacers ideally.