Kurf
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Posts posted by Kurf
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1 hour ago, Markz9 said:
Thanks Kurf should be ready for the season this year so will go around Europe with the CSBK
I always try to race at spa at the classic end of june usually race this Yoshi gs1000 but I have moved out of the vintage class this year
I visit Spa every year at bikers classics.
Great event, maybe I will catch you there
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Very nice bikes!!
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Speed is just a matter of money... How fast can you afford to go?
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Without pics it does not exist...
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https://link.marktplaats.nl/m1233029301
Just thought someone would be interested.
Not too bad asking price is it?
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25 minutes ago, Captain Chaos said:
OSS in Vatican City, now that would be cool.
Then it should be white....
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Paint it black....
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21 hours ago, Brian foord said:
Fuel tank sorted
Very nice bike!
Where did you get the breather pipe from? Will it fit the standard one on my gsxr1100?
cheers
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13 hours ago, Rob21 said:
My carb tops rub against the frame and the choke pull rod + brackets nearly touch the engine. 1991 motor 1100, 1990 750 frame, 1991 38bst carbs. All very tight, should see what I have to do to get them in and out. lol
What kind of filter and stacks are those?
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I’ve just bought a 91 frame at a good price to use for my 7/11 project.
Current frame is ‘89 but damaged in some places ( not structural )
Are those differences as shown in pics normal between 89 and 91 frames? I want to swap frames but not if the 89 is the better one for a 7/11
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Made something out of a sparkplug to put air pressure in the cylinder..
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30 minutes ago, dupersunc said:
Sounds like out of balance carbs. But try a leak down test as suggested to be sure.
Thanks again.
Also a good tip which I will defenitely follow
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Thanks Capt. Chaos.
Will try that tomorrow
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Is there a way to check if valves are ok without removing the head?
Compression test on my 1127 was ok but I think there might be something wrong with a valve at cylinder two ; at cold engine it sounds and feels like a pulse of “air” is forced back towards carbs.
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1 hour ago, wraith said:
I'd stick with the 36mm carbs and your settings sound a good starting place. You may find you may still get a stutter in the rev range with a 4-1 as Dyna say.
The 40mm carbs are good for pure top but sh#t at bottom, they are also a real bast#rd to set up I'm told.
If you want something that will give you more top end but still get a good bottom/mid look out for some gsxr750 38mm carbs.
Thank you : makes my decision easier and also a good feeling that I’m on the right track. Cheers!
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3 hours ago, suzook12 said:
Depends what you want to achieve from the motor, 36's will give you better bottom end, 40's will give you more top end power. Your base settings sound pretty good place to start. I beleive you will need the m/n carb rubbers for the 40's to fit....
Thanks ! Will first put it on the dyno with the 36’s then.
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Posted this question earlier in “projects” which probably is the wrong place to receive replies...
My 7/11 has BST36’s from the 750 engine. Pilot 40, Main 150, mixture 2,5 out and needle in middle clip. Needles seem to be dynojet and are new, just as emulsion tubes.
Before I put the bike on a dyno for a test I am in doubt if I should continue with the 36’s...
Because :
I recently bought a set of 40’s from a good running 1100 ( wich had original airfilter and exhausts)
Shall I stick with 36’s or use the 40’s ?
My bike has K&N pods and a 4-1 exhaust ( unknown brand stainless headers with Yoshimura muffler)
All advice is welcome in regards of settings for either 36 or 40mm
Thanx
My katana build
in Air Cooled
Posted
Nice !
what model tacho/speedo is it ?