Kurf
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Posts posted by Kurf
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Found it : switched solenoid and problem is gone now.
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3 hours ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
Duff battery is favourite, what's the battery voltage when you push the starter Tit ????
if it drops below 10 or 11 volts the relay wont latch and it will click and not turn the starter
Thanks,
Sounds logical : I did charge battery a while ago but will check voltage.
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Hi guys,
Strange ( electrical?) issue when trying to start my 1127.
Starter motor does not work all the time when I push the starter button.
Wiring is new, starter is 100%, start relais switches every time at push of button ( hear it clearly ), cleaned up surfaces for good earth and cleaned starter switch..
Still same issue...
Can it be the sidestand switch?
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I am going saturday : looking forward to it again. Weather should be dry and super sunny
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I am stoopid!
Carbs returned from ultrasonic cleaning and looked like new. Put them back together and checked float heights. Put them back on the bike with pods on and started : #4 was still running colder ( header) and overall bit rough.
I tested the bike without fuel tank for easy acces and to rule out possible problems with fuel tap. But..... forgot to close the vacuüm opening for the fuel tap.... realised we also forgot to do this with previous run on dyno.
As I said : stupid.... but sometimes these things get overlooked when you’re all over the bike chasing problems right?
Tried to upload a movie on how good she runs now but that doesn’t work. You have to take my word for it.
Next : check whenever there’s time to put it on dyno again ( will first have a go on the road for initial settings )
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1 hour ago, Oilyspanner said:
I can see the Mikuni marking on the needles Kurf, but they're a sharper shape (richer initially) than my FactoryPro stage 3 ones. 150 mj should be close.
You should get close using these guidelines from FactoryPro
http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,lower_rpm_engines.html
Thanks!
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26 minutes ago, clivegto said:
Those plastic bits are supposed to be there. I would lift the needles to the top notch and try them out.
Ok. Thanks, will try them on top notch ( leaner)
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3 hours ago, Oilyspanner said:
Need more info Dude. What air filter/filters, are the float heights accurately set ? It sounds like it's running very rich - are plugs sooty ?. Are the main jets Dynojet ? - they are different to Mikuni.
Before you go to the dyno, make sure the float heights are set correctly - when the fuel level is wrong it will muck up most of the carb circuits and give you endless problems to get the bike running well.
Oh and K&N pods with 4-1 exhaust
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3 hours ago, Oilyspanner said:
Need more info Dude. What air filter/filters, are the float heights accurately set ? It sounds like it's running very rich - are plugs sooty ?. Are the main jets Dynojet ? - they are different to Mikuni.
Before you go to the dyno, make sure the float heights are set correctly - when the fuel level is wrong it will muck up most of the carb circuits and give you endless problems to get the bike running well.
Hi Oilyspanner
float heights are ok. Jets are not dynojet.
Set up is as follows : 40 pilot, 150 main, 2,5 turns out on mixture. Needles in mid position but..... there’s a white plastic ring under each of the clips... makes it too rich probably? ( see pic )
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8 hours ago, Suban12 said:
Hopefully carb clean fixes this for you.I presume that you checked valve clearances prior to carb balance?If you are going to the dyno I would make sure engine health is good ie good compression readings on all 4 cylinders,valve clearances are good and new plugs all around. Did this running problem happen after the bike had sat for a few months or did it get worse as you continued to ride the bike over a period of time?Or are these carbs new to the bike?
Bought the bike as a non runner a year ago. Carbs are new to this bike.
Valve clearance and compression is checked and ok.
Will put in four new plugs before dyno.
Hope to be close to the solution now.
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Update :
At last start up bike ran on 1 and 4 only..
Switched plugs from 1 and 2 and 1 then did not go : foul plug.
Bike runs on 1,2 and 3 : no go on 4 so I switched plugs ( no change ) and then leads from 1-4 ( no change )
Must be a fuel issue :
Carbs are now back from ultrasonic bath and hopefully #4 will work when I put everything back on the bike.
to be continued...
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On 26-5-2018 at 2:10 PM, nokturnal said:
Dyno jet needles do not work with OEM emulsion tubes and OEM needles don't work with dynojet emulsion tubes.
This is something I have read...
Hi Nokturnal : needles and tubes were bought as a set so should work together. Thanks anyway for the tip
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On 26-5-2018 at 1:41 PM, August17 said:
Had a problem with my 1200 bandit carbs kept fowling one plug, worked out in the end the fuel bowl gasket was letting fuel into the motor bypassing the pilot jet, the circular part of the fuel gasket had very fine markings showing were the fuel had been bypassing across it,new gaskets on each carb and it was a goer
Hi August17, thanks for the tip : will replace the gaskets just to be sure.
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4 hours ago, nlovien said:
difficult to follow your path of observations - bit of randomness that in itself is a clue
see when you found the carbs out of sync - adjusted and now have high idle, did you also follow through, confirm the carbs are not hanging on the cables - adjust idle on the throttle stop then fine tune via the idle screw adjusters
when you fitted new coils - did you check the power supply circuit to them to see if you have high resistance / volts drop via a poor connector / switch - or a poor earth
it gets frustrating but when your chasing and replacing, you often have to go back over checks and adjustments and you sometimes need to look at all the bits that connect to the changed ones in order to find the root cause versus chasing the effects
are you getting a consistent and good fuel flow ?
Hi Nlovien
Thanks for your reply.
I only had the bike on dyno for very short moment when we discovered the air leak. As soon as there’s more dyno time ( Dyno guy helps me out in spare time) we will investigate further in regards of the idle.
I am no good at all at electrics : got everything cleaned up but do not know how to measure stuff on coils or leads etc.
Fuel flow is ok : alteady swapped taps because previous was no good, even after a rebuild.
That is why I suspect the carbs... Will try my 40mm set ( that recently came off a good running standard 1100 )as soon as I can borrow some inlet rubbers from a mate who has two 1100’s in the shed.
Thanks again, will be continued....
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12 hours ago, Blubber said:
2 and 4?
That rules out coil and ignition but not spark plugs, sparks boots, high tension leads and sadly also carbs.
Assuming you put the right boots on the correct plugs... Seen That before
Thanks Blubber.
I start to suspect the carbs.... I have a set of 40’s to try but no intake rubbers.
Will first fit four new plugs.
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Right then..... been very busy at work and now got chance to try the bike after closing the air leaks.
starts fine : just one push and it fires up but : high revving ( 3000 rpm ) and no go on cilinder 2 and 4.....
Starting to “dislike” this bike....
Question stays : wtf is wrong ???
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9 hours ago, CockneyRick said:
Were the inlet Ally faces clean & not corroded?
Yes sir... and bolts were not loose when I took them off.
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13 hours ago, no class said:
inlets and fluid gaskets ? How many other " band aids" you have going on hmmm ? Go get the O rings .....OEM only ..... and the clouds will clear and the sun will shine and the birds will sing
Inlets are OEM including the o-rings... bought new at cmsnl.... that’s why I’ m surprised one leaked anyway.
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Did not change plugs yet ( will do anyway) but found out following :
Carbs were out of balance : especially #4 was way out. Now sorted and bike no longer runs on three cilinders.
Bike kept revving on idle : false air. Did not think I had to check my new inlet rubbers for leakage but one of them did. Mounted all inlets again with a smear of fluid gasket.
Bike now starts and runs fine.
Dyno run still to come to get things fine tuned.
Happy sofar...
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Thanks for the advice guys ( more suggestions are still welcome)
Next thing : will change sparkplugs and swap cdi with one of my friend’s bike.
To be continued ( soon I hope with some pics of me riding the damn thing...)
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Coils are new...
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Trying to find out what the .... is wrong with my bike.
My 7/11 has BST36’s from the 750 engine. Pilot 40, Main 150, mixture 2,5 out and needle in middle clip. Needles seem to be dynojet and are new, just as emulsion tubes. Seemed like a good starting point.
Tried to do a test run today : nice weather and bike starts ok and runs fine on idle.
It picks up good on throttle and runs on all four cilinders.
Riding is a different story : runs rough like on three cilinders and wont go past 4-5000 rpm ; doesn’t pull through....
When warm it cuts out on closing throttle and is difficult to start again.
Is it fuel or electrical?
Any ideas anyone?
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Unknown ( Sebring?) stainless headers, homemade collector with yoshimura can.
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Gsx1100f
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Anyone ever built something nice from a Gsx1100f ?
Can buy one cheap...