Swarf
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Posts posted by Swarf
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I've seen it done but to be honest the mechanism hides most of the clutch anyway.......
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48 minutes ago, ziggy said:
Just checked and there different part no's. Not sure I can get to the frame but Id appreciate the dimensions if you've got them handy.
I'll update you Monday chap.
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What's the smallest footprint gel battery I can get for a 750 running normal electrics? Going to be custom mounted so doesn't need to fit a stock tray or owt.
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4 hours ago, ziggy said:
Would that fit a 750m? If so, count me in
Buggery knows, I can give you the bolt hole dimensions to check if you like mate? I assume they're the same but you never know......
I'll work out costs next week fellas.
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On 2/4/2019 at 10:08 PM, Rob21 said:
How much would this run? Take it it’s to run a longer shock off a modern bike?
On 2/9/2019 at 8:27 PM, markfoggy said:Want.
30 minutes ago, 370steve said:doing any more??
I might be persuaded to do some more but it'll be a while before I can fit them in, depends if anyone is happy to wait?? I can price up materials if anyone's interested.
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28x52x12 for the wheel, 32x65x17 for the cush drive.
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What sort of gap should there be at the left hand side on an L frame? Just not sure if I need to space my srad arm off to level it out. At the moment I reckon it's about 6mm ish. Assuming there should be a gap of some sort hence the threaded pivot jobby?
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On 1/31/2019 at 7:28 AM, dupersunc said:
Awesome.
Had a quiet day.....where do you want it posting mate?
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17 minutes ago, dupersunc said:
You had a look at doing the top mounts yet?
Yep, they're underway mate. Hopefully should be there in the next couple of weeks, got to slot them in as and when.
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Cheers @dupersunc
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Can anyone tell me what thread the bolt on shock mount threads are in the frame of an 89 gsxr 1100?
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Trying to jam a 600 srad one in my slingy with a k6 shock but I reckon it's going to need a relocation bracket.
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Cheers @Captain Chaos.
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1 minute ago, Captain Chaos said:
assuming you mean a GSX-R1100
bracket 17 (or 14) bolts to the frame with screw 15, and to the airbox with screw 20 (or 16). On each side.
Top man, thanks. So there should be a clearance hole in the frame? I think someone may have filled it in with weld.
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Machine a sleeve and weld it to the teapot stem. Plenty of material there to play with.
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Hi all, does anyone have any pics of how the airbox mounts to the frame on a 1989 1100? Trying to refit one to a modded frame.
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That's what I was getting at. These are old bikes with flexible steel parts, you're always best to check your wheels are in line.
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Bloody ridiculous lately. Everyone seems to be a breaker these days....
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2 hours ago, nlovien said:
from the stuff i've done - I would say more likely than not - you want a perfectly aligning frame etc.. - then go pay to get one built - leads to another point - where to measure ref: wheel to wheel - top / bottom / axles ?? - for me its as close as you can get to the bottom ( tyre contact) whilst keeping a reasonable spacing between the wheel front and back side of the rim - its fair to assume that the steering head is not going to be 100% perpendicular to the swing arm axle ( plus as previous said - the wheel spindle parallel to the swing-arm axle ) so you can compensate a bit by measuring low - at the end of the day its tyre contact to match tyre contact - its an opportunity for a bit of fine tuning - blue printing for free - will you notice though ? - with a big heavy cruzer broozer on a sunday cruze = nope, with a fine handling, relatively light bike ridden as it should be - absolutely = horses for courses
Agreed, I'd aim for alignment as close to the contact patch as possible. Any welded assembly moves and 'tweaks', comes down to the maker if it's within tolerances.
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Unless, devils advocate, one of the old components is slightly bent or twisted or otherwise out of shape.....just throwing it out there.
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I didn't build it fella. And it's far from snide bullshit, it's common sense.
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Don't you usually want your wheels in line?? That's how I've always worked with my builds cos I like to go round corners.......
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16 hours ago, Del said:
600 are long stroke(as are the 400/650/750),so are slightly taller than the short stroke 750.
The 89 gsxr1100k has a shorter output/countershaft,than all the other oil-cooled engines
Thanks Del. I'm going to make up some sort of spacer so I can get a rough height for now, and I'm aiming to pick up a 1200 lump for the actual build. Hopefully!!
Ideally I can use the 600 scrap motor to do all the frame mods needed, I'm assuming from this that my 600 output shaft should be similar enough to the 1200 to work out chain run. Aiming for a 200 rear tyre so I know some cutting will likely be needed. Hopefully I can get everything done with my cases then just chuck a proper lump in later......
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21 hours ago, clivegto said:
Just space it out or machine it down that's all I have done in the past. Can not even remember which engines these came from I just use the one that fits my purpose.
Cheers chap, I suppose I can just get a sprocket and space it to suit.
Small battery for slingshot
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Is it right that you need a specific charger for them?