gs7_11

Good move.

Really?

No. You may or may not need to replace a gasket or an o-ring, but wait and see. Rebuild kits can have issues with the quality of the parts, so don't go giving yourself another headache unnecessarily. Strip and re clean the carbs fully. Check EVERY orifice and drilling is clear by putting compressed air or WD40 through them. For instance, Make sure the pilot air jet is clear from the carb inlet through to the pilot jet, then the passageway into the carb venturi area is clear. Remove the pilot screws (after noting their setting in turns out from fully home) and check the drillings from the pilot jet via the pilot screw are also clear. (Don't overtighten the pilot screws, only gently seat them when screwing them in). Check the choke supply as previously mentioned. You must meticulously check each carb is properly clean. There are other issues like split diaphragms etc, but this won't generally stop the bike from running, it'll just run badly.

Cranking speed changing with throttle position is normal. You've got enough information in the replies you've already been given. 1. Try starting the engine on Easy Start, WD40, carb or brake cleaner, or even fuel in the cylinders. If it runs, even a little like this it eliminates the ignition system. 2. You've said compression is good, so we'll assume it's OK, and that cam timing hasn't been disturbed. 3. If it's still fuel, and assuming you're using fresh petrol, the problem must be carbs. Having clean jets isn't enough, you need to check each and every drilling and passageway in the carb bodies, and floatbowls. The pilot system needs air to function, as well as a clean jet.

There's a passage/jet in each floatbowl that passes fuel to the enrichment circuit. If you examine the float bowls closely, you'll see it. Check it's clear by squirming WD40 or something through it. If it's blocked, you'll have trouble starting the engine. I'd also remove the pilot jets and check they're properly clean. Also there's an airway from the inlet side of the carb that supplies the pilot circuit which needs to be checked.

Possibly blocked choke supply drilling in the float bowls.

I've never had any problems with NGK, despite Internet hysteria, and have used them on everything, cars, bikes and even lawnmowers with no problems. Just have to be careful where you buy them.

You don't need a dyno tune if the bike is stock, nor hotter plugs. Just get the carbs properly sorted out with the stock jets. If it's all standard and not running well there's a FAULT. Fix it. Your carbs are probably dirty with blocked passageways, or have incorrect float heights, or leaking float valves, or the wrong jets. You definitely need some sort of fuel filter by the sound of it. Edit: There's some good discussion of thorough carb cleaning on this thread: Carb Clean Tips

The GS750 airbox is one of the easiest to fit, so sounds like you need new rubbers. Airbox Rubbers Once the carbs are on, it should slide in easily behind the carbs, then push forward onto the carb inlets. Squish the rubber snorkel at the airbox rear, and make sure everything is out of the way, like wiring. Sidepanels off, obviously.

My experience with Ledar and Dynojet kits on GS1000's, slide and CV, hasn't been good. Especially CV carbs. Never quite get rid of glitches. Each to their own, maybe I'm too fussy.

Brakes etc *should* be the same from 850 to 1000 (along with some other models), but note that there are differences from year to year.

Good move. Make sure it's DEFINITELY from a 1000. Contrary to what you'll be told, the 850G and 1000G airboxes are NOT the same. The 1000G airbox has bigger holes on a wider spacing.

Leave the carbs. Find an airbox on Eblag and fit it. Job done.

Suzuki Performance list a Marving for the shafty. SPS GS1000G System I'd be surprised if the Delkevic needed more than a bracket fabricating. Here's one on my GS7/11 thingy, with mk 1 homemade bracket.

Yes, that looks correct.