riversbikes

Getting there... I think I might end up at 130 mains. Doh!

No dyno nearby, but I might throw it in the van and go for a (long) drive...

Really? The manual says 1/4 to 1/2 max... although that's far easier than raising the needles...

After wasting days of my life last summer trying to get my CV carbs to work, I bought a set of RS36s, and Frank's MX intakes. Took some farting around to get them installed, but the bike finally runs as it should, or close to it. 120 mains, fuel screw out 1/2 turn. Needles were left where they were set at the factory, and I think I'm a tad lean -- when rolling on the throttle, it is a bit flat, and sounds like "whoooaaar" until it gets to the main jet where it takes off. I did properly set the accelerator pump according to the manual. Any thoughts? Should I lift the needles up one notch? Here's a pic of the bike with the old carbs on.

Got it sorted! The pics really helped. I was asked to watch the process, I guess in case something broke, but with "just a bit more" pressure, it slid right out. Thanks!

Sent a PM to bloke directly but I'll cast a wider net for feedback as well. I've dropped the gsxr lower triple off at a local machine shop -- explained that I first needed the gsxr stem pressed out of the bottom yoke before I press the longer bandit stem in. I explained the need to support the alloy lower triple before they went at it with the hydraulic press. Got a call from them -- the machinist is a bit concerned about how much pressure it seems to require to get it to press out. He estimates 10 tons have been exerted with no movement. More is certainly possible, but he's concerned something will break before the stem is moved out. Any idea as to how much pressure is needed? Im assuming the stem is pressed "down" through the bottom of the yoke, not "up" through it? Would heat help (although too much would bugger up the aluminum and perhaps mess with the temper)? Maybe the machine shop is being too cautious, but they simply don't want to damage anything. Thoughts?

Thanks Bloke -- the forks and the 2nd set of bandit trees have been purchased. The forks were a bit steep at $450 USD, but they appear to be in perfect shape -- straight, no pitting, and the seller claims new oil and seals. Hopefully in a couple of months I'll be posting in the "winged hammer" section!

Last question -- is the generation 2 Bandit steering stem the same as a Gen 1? I have a 1997 machine, and would like to do the hydraulic press work prior to putting the new say what now!? forks on the bike. I can get a Gen 2 lower triple with stem for $8.99 on eblag, but the current cheapest Gen 1 is over $80.00...

Thanks Bloke -- running a Koso speedo, so would my B12 front wheel and rotors work, or would I need a say what now!? one?

Came across a nice set of 93-94 forks, wondering if these would be a good candidate for a Bandit 1200? Clip ons above the triple, so overall length should be close to the bandit's 770mm supenders. Is a 2002 Bandit 1200 stem the same as the Gen 1 bandits?

I wouldn't mind some photos of the oil hose routing and fittings on the head coolers for the bandit engines. I'm mucking about with a bandit racer, and have some oil cooler ideas myself, to supplement the stock OEM cooler. I've got an6 fittings as well...

Thanks cap == from what I can tell /have seen online, the bandit stem is 280mm -- a whopping 40mm longer. I guess I could look at pressing out stems, but I was hoping this could be done with a simple bearing swap. If I'm pressing out stems, I might as well wait for a gsxr set to come up so I can still use my perfectly good front wheel, rotors, etc. You saved me a ton of hassle!

No problem, cap'n~!

That would be fantastic, c'apn! I'll look for your updates on Friday!

Hey all, doing some research -- looking at a fork/front end swap option that might be more plentiful than the increasingly rare gsx1100 option. What I know: All balls has a bearing kit to swap in a 2002 zx9R front end for a bandit 1200. zx9r forks are 770mm long (same as the bandit) front wheel would be needed, but spoke profile is quite similar (so it looks nice/the same as the rear...?_) 46mm RWU forks -- maintains the retro look but fully adjustable (comp, rebound,preload) Likely stiffer than the 43mm bandits as well. not sure about weight, but as is is 10 years newer than the proper gsxr1100 forks as well What I don't know Steering stem length -- bearings might work but if the zx9r stem is too short, and the bandit one can't be pressed in, you are looking at custom yokes or...? I am sure the front wheel, axle, rotors, and calipers would all be needed due to axle diameters, rotor offset, etc -- doubtful the bandit stuff would swap over. Speedo drive (likely no chance of working) An intriguing option nonetheless. Further the zx1200 triples might work, as the stem for those might need to be longer than the zx9r (who knows) A quick troll of Eblag shows many more options and far cheaper than the say what now!? forks (as of right now) Thoughts?

I see some Hel kits -- 19 row oil coolers with aeroquip lines. Hel makes quality stuff... a good place to start?

Thanks for the advice -- I plumbed in an oil cooler on my ER6 racer a few years ago -- sandwitch adapter plate, some an6 hoses, and a ducati oil cooler from a Monster. Worked well. Any bolt on options?

This is what we call positive peer pressure. I could beat one of the zx10Rs on my Duke 690 last year, so this should be a riot. Will leave the engine alone until I find a proper suspension set up and ideal tire. Thinking Pirelli Supercorsas as slicks will likely tie the chassis up in knots... I've got race tech emulators installed already, and a sturdy fork brace. Stock springs still *(my local track looks like a street in downtown Beirut its so bumpy), but I have club racer support from Racetech so maybe they can help me out with a proper fork build. Some cheap 1100 forks and triples on Eblag right now, the longer early type as well....

Yep, you read right. It looks pretty, but is expensive to insure here in Canada, and I have a far more practical street triple for the street. I've done the forks and a gsxr rear shock... I've roadraced for 20 years, and there is something appealing about racing an oldschool suzuki. Ditch the lights, put on some stickier tires, and... get beaten by 600s? Even with upgraded suspension and a weight reduction, how badly would a bandit handle? Ive bought RS36s since the photo was taken, so it likely makes a few ponies over stock. I also lost about 40 lbs hacking off the rear subframe and welding on a 4130 rear subframe a la pepo... Is this the stupidest idea ever? The engine has only 12,000 kms!

The choke was step 1...

Ordered a set of 115 and 120 from the local bike shop... he had 1 120 in stock, nothing else. This experience makes me wonder about the logic of Holeshot's kit, which everyone raves about -- the smallest jet included is a 147.5.

You guys might be on to something here --- went back to all stock, but with the Holeshot supplied pilot jet (35). I tried the stock needle at 1 clip then 2 clips richer (down to the richest possible), but wouldn't rev at all. Less/little black smoke! Put the HS needles in on the leanest setting. Screws now 3.5 turns out. Even better. Took it for a short spin, and understandably wouldn't take anything past 1/2 throttle with the 102.5 mains. Will go to the bike shop and see if they have any... 120s to start. Now that everything is FI, my local shop isnt stocking many mains anymore, may have to order some in. Should I try something smaller? 115s first?

Checked again, air intake for pilot jet (at the front of the carb) on cylinders 2 and 4 were restricted, but not plugged. Cleaned the carbs again and will try tomorrow.

DId some digging -- the mains that come with a dynojet stage III are 150 and 155...