2scars
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Posts posted by 2scars
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1 hour ago, wraith said:
Just thinking, has the chain snapped at some point and coursed the damage?
Not sure what it has been through in it's illustrious life, I did have to cut off the chain that was on it, but the sprocket cover had already been removed completely from the motor. Not having the bike in front of me, just looking at the phone pictures more closely, I would say corrosion. It's good to have it, but it is definitely a back burner project while I crack on with reassembling the R750(M) and fettling my other bike.
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Looks like I will be doing more surgery than that. All but two of the sprocket cover mounting bosses are either broken in half or, in the case of the one nearest the clutch push rod, broken completely off. I can get a set of new cases off the bay, but between that and a full gasket kit and any replacement internals, this engine is pretty far on the back burner.
Any advise on repairing these cases would be welcome, I think I can helicoil the broken ones, but with nothing to graft to on the center one I would bet there is some amount of deflection when the clutch is actuated.
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On 11/2/2021 at 3:38 PM, Captain Chaos said:
move the output shaft while selecting another gear. As TonyGee said, clutch is not needed.
I was trying that, the sprocket/output shaft would move back and forth, but the selector wouldn't budge.
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I got 38lbs even with a 190 Dunlop Sportmax GPR 300. Or 17.237 Kg
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Yeah I just ran across pics of the gsx600f carbs and they definitely are from that model. Thanks.
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I can weight the one I have unmounted when I get home from work, but that will be much later on.
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Annoying. These were on a parts 750M that I picked up for the motor. Oh well, on the shelf…
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Any ideas as to which bike these carbs might be from? The portion that fits to the head has an inside diameter of 33mm-ish. Looks to be cable operated choke/enrichment. B6? Just trying to get a solid idea of the spares I have laying around.
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27 minutes ago, Upshotknothole said:
Get a Pingle, lower profile than the stock petcocks.
The one I have has an adapter for the fitting that spaces it down and on several models that creates interference issues betwixt tank and motor. I saw on here somewhere where the adapter was either milled down or a bung welded to the tank to accept it directly.
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52 minutes ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
And whats a " frame mount diameter mod"
I think he means the enlarging of the engine mount on the frame from 10 to 12mm.
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Crusty ol thing, but with any lucky things will get sorted without too many dramas.
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1 hour ago, Captain Chaos said:
move the output shaft while selecting another gear. As TonyGee said, clutch is not needed.
Yeah, I was hoping it was wheel bearings, rusty chain, and brake drag when I went to go pick it up. But the gear selector won't change gears, even when trying the output shaft. I put a wrench on the ignition side of the crank to see that the pistons moved. Thats why I assumed the friction/steel scenario. Oh, well, I will see once I have time to open it up.
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17 minutes ago, Joseph said:
11F pushrod is 92mm
11R 1127 pushrod is 101.5mm
Measured the one out of the B6, it is also 92mm.
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58 minutes ago, wraith said:
Yes the b6 sprocket cover goes straight on, instead of buying a proper push rod, get some 6mm round bar and cut that to size. I think the standard gsx1100f was about 102mm (without going and checking so maybe different) but a good start point.
The only way to find out about the clutch, is to have a look, always worthwhile with a unknown motor to remove the sump as well and have a look in the bottom of the engine etc.
I found the one in the donor B6 engine, I will measure that one. Thanks for the information. I assumed I would have to get the covers off this one. The carbs are fairly clean judging by the bellmouths, and it has only done 26K miles. It will go in storage until I get closer to done with the 750R resto, or until I fine decent running gear...
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Hey folks, I scored the only 1127 I was able to find on FB marketplace and it happened to be nearby, like 10 minutes down the road. Anyway. I can't get it out of gear currently and the hydraulic slave was completely off the bike and wasted by the looks of it. I remember stumbing across the suggestion of running the B6 sprocket cover with the cable actuator, but the 1100F is missing the clutch push rod also. Which push rod should I get, the 1100F or the B6? I feel like the mention was to modify one of them, but I don't want to buy the wrong one.
It seems the clutch frictions may be seized to the steels as I also cant get it out of gear when manipulating the gear selector. Any insight on possibilty with that would be welcome also. I am hoping I just need to pull the cover and separate everything, but I am not sure if this is indicative of a larger problem (i.e. helical primarys being fucked) or something.
Thanks and I will throw up some photos in a bit.
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Well, I have two sets of 38s, but one has worn needles and slide guides. If the 34s are serviceable on this particular bike, are they basically the same design as the BS34s used on Kwaka Zeds? The bike I'm picking up has the V&H exhaust and pods, so possibly already setup with a DJ kit. I can't wait to tear it to bits and get the good stuff off...
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Can anyone point me in the direction of some knowledge on the tin top 34s that come with these motors?
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2 hours ago, wraith said:
Much better than playing with bits of a 600/750 motors
Truth.
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The local guy with the relatively complete 1990 GSX1100F has gotten back to me and decided to sell. So looks like I have a motor for a GSXR7/11 after all.
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There is a person on FB marketplace in Lynnwood, WA that has a complete bike in parts for $1k if you are looking. Oil cooled 750 and good fairings/tank.
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Virginia, I have guy in TN that has alot of stuff, but nothing for the long stroke motor. I picked up a set of BST38s from him recently, and maybe a rear brake stay soon. I thought I had a Teapot 1100 motor but the guy has decided to try and get the bike back on the road. I don't think he has the disposable cash to do so given the state of the bike as a whole.
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I have a 750M (long stroke) motor with bad head, a suspect B6 that was free, and a GSX750f motor that is likely rusty in the cases. Trying to make something out of nothing. Not many of these oil boilers turning up these days in the States.
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Damnit, I figured that the combustion chamber would be too small, even if the cams would work. Combing through the Frankenstein write up in the vault gave me some hope...
Blast...
Float height
in Oil Cooled
Posted · Edited by 2scars
misspelling
So I am coming to that stage with these BST38s. When I went to get everything reinstalled, it's like the float needles are too short or something. I can’t get the floats to do anything but bottom out. Any suggestions as to what I’m doing wrong? I replaced everything with the Litetek kit.