2scars
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Posts posted by 2scars
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And where are you at PA? A bunch of stuff winds up coming out of NC/SC here in the states if you are up for a drive.
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Yeah I think he does head porting and all that in house too.
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Well it flows well enough to give 4-6 on a stock bike so I would say...yes. Check out his B12 and all the goodies it has and the dyno sheets for it.
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Hey Bud, I'm in Virginia, relatively new to the Suzuki game myself. Holeshot (US, not UK) is a pretty good one stop shop for Bandit tuning parts. Take a look here https://www.holeshot.com/suzuki/bandit/600-1200
A lot of stuff is for sale in FB Marketplace, so it is a shame you aren't on there. It is running directly over CL. Eblag, will be okay, but not alot of overlap with the stuff thats locally on FB.
Otherwise, welcome to OSS, alot of good stuff and no one has yet mentioned the Frankenstein pages in the archives yet...
Brandon
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How much of a difference is there between Mikuni round slide CV and flat slide CV carbs if they’re both 34mm?
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So I have my guy in the machine shop turning up a top hat to go into the factory hardened bushing. When you make these type of changes do you also add a reducer for the crush sleeve inside? I have read that the reducer will help with pivot shaft deflection...
Brandon
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Generally speaking if you are having bushings turned up for an 18mm pivot bolt to work in a later monoshocked swing arm with a 25mm sleeve originally, what material do you have them made from? Mild steel, or is something harder required?
thanks.
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needle bearing sleeves from the 91, they will slip inside the ones from the 95. That is about all I can see. I just removed an extended one from my 91 and adapted it to another bike in my stable. Good luck with it.
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Pardon
in Oil Cooled
Yes, I am about to just make one out of an old cutting board....
I've found one new one, if the swingarm wasn't already extended I would buy the one found for $50USD. But I don't want to dump that much into something that I may very well hate how it feels. I already have to buy a decent chain, but if it doesn't work out I can just cut that down and reuse it somehow else.
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Pardon
in Oil Cooled
Anyone MAKE a chain run buffer for the swingarm? Maybe out of HDPE or similiar?
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Thanks Wraith, that is exactly the information I was looking for.
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I thought I had read some info here or elsewhere about using a later model B12 loom in place of an old tired original one from a R750M. Is this correct, and if so, which model would be most useful/easiest to adapt?
The one I have has several amateur attempts at either repair or modification that can be corrected, so I'm not starting entirely from scratch.
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Pardon
in Oil Cooled
Nevermind, looks like a 1995 GSXR750w that is stretched 6 inches.
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Pardon
in Oil Cooled
This is attached to a non OSS I understand, but trying to identify in order to either purchase or make a chain run guide.
I thought late 90s gsxr, it was on the 91 I bought to restore.
thanks gents…
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Geez, at least in first gear....
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Actually no, the r750 has slightly taller gear that the Teapot or B6.
GSXR750 1st 2.77 / 2nd 2.25 / 3rd 1.65 / 4th 1.40 / 5th 1.23 / 6th 1.09:1
Teapot/B6 1st: 3.083 / 2nd: 20.62 / 3rd: 1.647 / 4th: 1.400 / 5th: 1.227 / 6th: 1.095
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So then the teapot and B6 should drop straight in, with no mods. And the transmission gearing is the same across all the 6 speed gear boxes?
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As I seem to have a possibly knackered transmission in my powerscreen motor, and several 6 speed gearboxes to choose from. Are there any differences between the B6, Teapot 750, and R750M transmissions that would have a benefit over the others? Perhaps one may not need to be "drilled"? And if they all need to have the shaft drilled for the push rod, which shaft is it that needs this?
This project will be down the road, but if I can start familiarizing myself with the requirements now that would be helpful. Again, thank you.
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And I see why, never had a bike with an air box, these things are a real pleasure to shoehorn in to place.
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So is this success or impatience? How long do you leave the fuel bunged in before thinking the floats are good?
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One more for this carb thread, the carbs I have also have UK spec jet needles in them. Which position would be a good starting point in a stock arrangement? I think it must have had a treatment similar to, or in fact from, Factory Pro. I took out 147.5 main jets and the needles were at the second slot from the top. I put in US spec 127.5 mains and left the needles on the second clip position from the top.
Thanks, I'm clearly new to these 'Zukis.
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25 minutes ago, TonyGee said:
are you holding the plastic housing down ? and are the float valve springs being compressed ? tilt the carbs when setting the height.
Yeah, that is what I was was getting wrong. That and trying to do it in the kitchen while I have a sick kid in the house. Wrapped my mind around it again out in the shed while my daughter was eating lunch and presto. Thanks for helping me reseat my brain gents!!
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14 minutes ago, clivegto said:
Bend the tap that holds the float needle to adjust to the correct height.
I have, in both directions to see if I was doing it wrong. There doesn't seem to be enough adjustment in them. After reading how to do it, it seemed pretty straight forward.
16 minutes ago, Mike711 said:Have you checked the new needle valves are the same as the OE ones?
They are the same ones that were in there. I checked them against another set of needle and seats that I have from a second set of carbs laying around.
Can a mk1 B12 run well without the airbox ?
in Oil Cooled
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In my area most won’t run it unless they did the work to the engine. Drives me crazy.