Jpich85
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Posts posted by Jpich85
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3 hours ago, inmate said:
I got Black Widow blandit race
full system, fits my 1100 slingy with fairings and my project GS 650 with 1100 engine. Very lightweight and looks to be good quality.
Sorry forgot to put price, £250
Do you know if that will fit a Gsxr 750 1985 mate? What bandit model did you go for?
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I'm looking for a new exhaust system for my bike, one with a larger bore at the manifold, does anyone now of a good manifold from another bike that would fit with the fairings still on that won't break the bank?
Can't find many new aftermarket ones that are under a £1000 lol
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Definitely Tony
but on to the the next headache
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I've just fitted the starter clutch, I've not much experience fitting these so I don't really know what's ok and what's not but after fitting it I've noticed the large cog has a bit of back and forth play in it and wasn't sure if that's normal or if I haven't fitting it correctly?
There's not really much too it but I thought I'd check with you guys in case something isn't correct,
It spins as it should I'm just not sure if the movement in the rear gear should be there
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I ended up swapping it back, It was playing on my mind too much so I got another gasket and swapped it over, luckily no m6 threads stripped along the way lol
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I better swap it back out then guys to be on the safe side lol, thanks for the advice
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After cleaning out the oil strainer and fitting a new oil pan gasket on my gsxr750 1985, I was looking through the workshop manual and realised I'd fitted it back on the opposite way lol, I know it was a dumb mistake and should of double checked it in the manual.
Does anyone know if it matters which was these are fitted or if it needs correcting and put on the right way around?
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On 7/11/2023 at 8:29 PM, TonyGee said:
one thing I noticed is, Suzuki use their own voltmeters but who owns one ? ive used the Suzuki one and used a none Suzuki one and get different readings !! I was told by a Suzuki tech to use the Suzuki one in the workshop. just a thought.
Thanks Tony I appreciate it
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Whats an acceptable secondary ohm reading for the coils on a 1990 gsxr 750?
Mine are a bit lower than the workshop manual states and I'm not sure if I need some new ones or if they are still acceptable?
After my running issues I'm trying to find it what it might be so wasn't sure whether to replace these or not,
They are 23.5 and 24.5, on the slabside workshop manual these would be in spec I think but in the 1990 specs these are out and the lowest is 30.
Thanks
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Thanks for the advice everyone i appreciate it, I'll take a look into the points you guys have made and see if I can sort it, I thought the built was finished but by the looks of it a few more headaches are needed lol.
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I recently finished my bike and in the way to the mot centre I could tell something wasn't right,
It was really rough on the idle and first 1/4 of the throttle and then it was spluttering going up hill, it was great though once I got past the first 1/4 of throttle
So i balance the carbs and adjusted the mixture screw a bit, it sounded a lot better, so I took it for a test ride and then the same thing, it was rough again around idle and I broke down going up hill, it just stopped and was popping back in and out of spark,
Luckily it was by my house so I pushed it back and I'm not wondering what to check now.
So I thought I'd ask you guys to see if you might now when I can start?
I ultrasonic cleaned the carbs with a full strip and rebuild with new seals, I have put an ignition advacer on with k and n filters and a vance and hines megaphone exhaust when I was building it, I did have oil in the tank to protect it against rust during the build but not sure if that would cause any issues,
I did have a weak earth to the engine as i ran my own earth cable to neaten things up but I did sort that out.
My dad thinks it's electrical but I'm thinking carbs, I'm going to take the carbs off and check them over but wasn't sure if anyone else might if had this and what they did to fix it.
Thanks
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3 hours ago, Buzuki said:
On the each side of the lower engine block half is one brass plug , they have to be there and have to seat very tight and secured with some kind of the liquid bond ,
that`s from the reason because one brass plug close the oil main gallery end , and second one close the oil sub gallery end , both of these oil galleries are under full oil pressure so no oil leak is allowed ,
btw, to perfectly clean lower crankcase block half ( main oil gallery & oil sub-gallery) those two brass plugs and two plugs with thread must be removed mandatory !
Thanks for the help mate, I would expect each side to have a brass plug but from I've researched on the early 750 engines I don't think they put a brass plug in on the ignition pick up side, seems strange but I think the ignition engine cover just blocked it off.
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1 hour ago, george 1100 said:
The case cover blocks the hole
Thanks George, that's what mine is like, I'd just never seen it left open like that before or maybe I didn't notice it but it must be,
Thanks everyone for confirming it and I'll continue building it back up once I get a few parts in.
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1 hour ago, TonyGee said:
I wouldn't like to say for definite if it should be plugged or not !!! but when the cover is on it will act like a blanking plug.
34 minutes ago, fatblokeonbandit said:He’s right you know………
where does the hole go????
I have a feeling that it wasn't plugged as I can't see any signs of anything ever being pressed into that hole but just seems weird that it is left open.
It feeds a long side the oil channel that the oil pressure switch screws into and feeds under the crank shells.
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6 hours ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
would be good to find out where its gone???? any pictures before it went away
5 hours ago, TonyGee said:ive seen a few crankcases on the bay and everyone has no blanking plug, if they are a tighish fit then they wouldn't normally fall out, but if they are loose then yeah they could just slide out, nothing in the parts diagram ??? did they maybe do away with them and rely on the cover to blank them off ?
So you guys think there should be a hole there?
I found these on the bay and noticed some have the hole there too
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1 hour ago, fatblokeonbandit said:
better pic
Thanks mate,
I wouldn't of thought that would of fell out as it must be a tight fit in there.
Would you make a bung up and fit it back in?
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I'm getting ready to rebuild the engine on my gsxr750 1985 and got the engine bits back from the cerakoters,
After giving them a clean I noticed this hole near where the ignition pick is, which gets covered by the engine case.
I'm pretty sure this is usually blocked off by a brass bung like it is on the other side and like I think I can remember from previous engines I've had but there's no sign of anything ever being in there and I can't see how it just fell out.
I've asked around and can't get a definite answer so thought I'd check with you guys.
I'm not sure if something had fallen out and I need to make a new brass bung for or if it was like that from factory and just leave as is?
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Thanks everyone for your advice, I think I'll do with your suggestions and re fit as is, after going through all this effort I just hope I don't regret not refreshing the bores and rings but after pricing them up its out of my budget right now unfortunately.
Just need to strip the head down now and check it all over.
I was surprised with the amount of bodging I found while stripping it down lol, some case bolts missing, some m6 holes plugged up to stop oil coming through and some terrible heli coiling but I've managed to repair it all so far.
Cheers boys
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I'm in the process of stripping down my engine for cerokote, it's my first time doing so I'm learning along the way, due to money unfortunately I can't spend too much on it so when I rebuild it I'm having to just fit the existing pistons and piston rings back in.
I bench tested the compression on a cold engine and I had 150 on all 4, so I thought that was OK.
The cylinders are glazed and pretty shiny which I've researched isn't what they should be.
I'm just checking if I should do I hone on the barrels before I fit the pistons back in or is it best just to refit with the shiny barrels?
Ideally I'd like new rings and maybe get them +1mm re bored but don't think I can afford it.
It's on my gsxr750 1985
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Thanks guys, I'll check the bore over and see what it's like and I'll check the oil too, I'm doing a full strip down and getting the cases ceroketed so hopefully after I build it back up it'll be in better shape, I just wondered if I can still use these
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I've started stripping the engine down on my gsxr750 1985 it's my first time doing it so I'm not sure what's acceptable and what's not.
I've found some scuffing on the pistons and wanted to ask if this just normal wear for a old bike or something I should address?
I can't really afford to go to mad on this bike so I just wanted to check if I can still use them?
Also I can't get 4 of the studs out, are there any tips to help get them moving?
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8 hours ago, Ivan said:
Found elsewhere on this side this pics
Looks like they have their adaptor a different way round to your version, do both ways work?
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8 hours ago, Ivan said:
Isnt this the adapter you re looking for?
I thought it was for a slabby but had them being made for my teapot for better calliper.
Don't remember where I found them inc sizes etc
Thanks Ivan, what hole sizes did you use? My slabside uses m8 I think and I'm sure the nissins are m10 aren't they?
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After a few tries and wasted money I gave up on my leaking original calipers for my 1985 750.
I know it's possible to fit 4 pot nissins on these bikes so I went ahead and bought some,
I just wanted to ask if anyone has any pics of how they set there's up as in the adaptor for them so I can get the best set up got them.
I found a few pics of a top adaptor but wasn't too sure if you tap the fork top mount out to m10 I think or nut it from the back.
Any help would be great
Slabside header swap
in Oil Cooled
Posted
Thanks everyone, I appreciate your advice, unfortunately I need to go for whatever is the cheapest route at the moment.
Dezza that sounds like a cool system you've got on there,
I was thinking about making my own, I've got a tig welder and can weld pipe but I'm not sure about the bending of the tubes, you could do pie cuts or pre bend sections but then I could see that getting expensive too lol